Spiling can be reasonably easy and soothing to perform, but does require a bit of familiarly with the skills. Once you've acquired them, it's a walk in the park and you'll be spiling things everywhere for perfect fits.
I'm not sure of Mr. Rossel's method, but there are a few different ways to get the task completed. I can think of at least three; spiling block onto a template (or batten), angled reference lines onto a template and compass arc onto a template. All of these methods require the marks be transferred onto the planking stock afterwards.
I use a tick stick, a lap gauge and plank pattern (template or batten), but a compass and straight edge can do the job too. The pattern is usually a strip of 1/4" luan or thicker. I rib 3" or wider strips, depending on planking widths and place them on the planking jig (station molds). I keep the edge I'm working on within a 1/2" of this edge (closer is better). I used butt blocks to piece together sections of luan strips, cocking them as necessary to keep them below the line I'm working on, then nailing them to the station molds.
If reference lines are used, then you mark off these lines every 4 inches or so, basically perpendicular with the edge you're trying to pick up. A compass or divider is set to a convenient distance (mark this on the pattern, in case you drop the compass and loose the setting) a mark or arch is picked up at each reference line. The point of the compass or divider rests at the spot where the reference line crosses the plank edge you want and the arc swung across the reference line on the pattern. The tick stick does the same thing, except you just transfer the mark, no arc is necessary.
Remove the pattern and lay it on top of the planking stock. Extend your reference marks and pick up the correct distance (see, you should have marked it on the pattern) for your compass, divider or tick stick and transfer the marks in reverse to the planking stock. Now you have a row of points, which a batten can be sprung. Or you can use a stepped spiling block or lap gauge to directly transfer the marks, creating a dashed or solid line to the planking stock.
The humble arc can be very useful to the beginner. If an arc is drawn on the pattern, with the pointy leg of the compass on the edge of the planking stock, then the compass point can be moved to any place on that arc and a new arc drawn, with the intersection being at the first point on the plank edge. This is the most common method employed in the USA.
Edge set is usually because the pattern stock is too flimsy, sagging between station molds, or is be pushed against it's first few fasteners, as it's placed over the molds. As you've discovered, this sucks and should be avoided. Start at the middle of the boat and drape the pattern over the molds. Use enough temporary fasteners to keep it in place and permit you to work.
Use a pattern stock that will not sag between the molds, use short lengths, butt blocked together, to generally follow the curve of the planking. I use 1" common nails, driven at slight angles, but don't drive them completely home, so they can be pulled easily. I screw the butt blocks down well, then move the pattern to the planking stock. When the pattern is on the planking stock, nail the individual sections down and remove the butt blocks (hence the screws).
Longer planks (a luxury you don't have) can edge set easily and can tolerate some, but small, clinker boats can't have any.
10-17-2006, 02:54 PM
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