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  #16  
Old 10-28-2009, 08:54 AM
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lewisboats lewisboats is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanmay1 View Post
thanks for the responses guys and lewis that seems like a good idea. I think im going look for a good price on epoxy and fiberglass and just tape the seems and paint the rest. I know it wont last as long, it doesn't have to last forever if i can get a few years out of it i will be happy. Im sure after i build it if everything goes well it wont be long before im out there building a better one.
ClarkCraft is a bit spendy but the epoxy is a nice 1:1 and you can get small amounts rather than having to buy a gallon or more.
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:42 AM
helen07 helen07 is offline
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i have unqualified design questions to ?

What do those who know think of these dimensions for a displacement hull on a fishing trawler ?
Length 15 metres
Width 7.5 metres
Draft 2.5 metres
I'm assuming this will give for a very slow boat unless a very thirsty engine is used ?

It is common belief among fishermen that lifting poles should always be placed a half length of the boat , i find this difficult to believe as the width of a boat is usually approx one third of it's overall length so why can't poles be placed wherever , if it can lift that weight on it's side rail without capsizing then why would lifting the same weight say on the stern for example cause any problems as it would have 3 times the counter balance . Your thoughts on this please .

An earlier convo on here got me thinking about the so called rule beater fishing boats design and having brought myself up to date with the latest fishing rules i have been designing a hyperthetical fishing boat that is built to adhere to the rules while offering a level of safety and comfort only currently available from catamarans . Catamarans have no fish hold worth mentioning so are not appropriate .

Emptying nets inside the stern rail should in my mind prolong the life expectancy of a trawler considerably as several tons slamming into the midsection of a hull inevitable takes it's toll on any boat regardless of it's build .

I am without qualification and so i will be grateful for any criticism also , though it's very early days , my final drawings might one day end up at a shipyard as i have family still at sea .
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2009, 11:03 AM
apex1
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Helen,

welcome back!
You would be placed much better here:

Fishing Vesels stability

with your questions!
You are talking serious business, this is a amateur section.
Though there have been some "misinterpretations" in the past, you´ll get more valuable info from the pro´s.

Regards
Richard
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2009, 06:54 PM
pungolee pungolee is offline
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Good Gravy! I thought we were beyond all this,I haven't been here in a while.
Buy the best Epoxy there is, use stainless or bronze screws, use the best wood you can afford,the best primer and decent paint.
I work at a place that gets tung oil by the drum.I like to use it but the only way it would work in the application you are suggesting is to build a closely(hint;skilled) jointed hull from air dried wood and then SOAK the thing in hot tung oil.
It still would need the same process a year later, that is if you didn't drown.
Go to Norway and take the Viking Boat Class in Onslo.
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