evening out ply splices

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by 300wm, May 30, 2016.

  1. 300wm
    Joined: Jul 2014
    Posts: 56
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 66
    Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

    300wm Junior Member

    I've spliced the tub of a kayak I built a couple years ago to a new front and rear, but the 1/4" ply I used for the original build (and the tub) is actually about one millimeter thicker than the new 1/4" ply I'm splicing on to it. I really do not want to just 'feather' sand this to match. Is there a tool or machine I can rent from Home Depot/Lowes that will shave the one millimeter from the whole tub?
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    A hand or power plane will do this, though by the time you set it up and nail it perfectly, you could have used a belt sander with similar accuracy. A big disk grinder will do the same, though both will require some deft tool work (experience) to get it good and flat. The belt sander is the tool I turn to first for this sort of thing, as it's fast and in skilled hands, accurate and precise. In a novice's hands, you can easily remove way more material than you want.

    Personally, I wouldn't be sweating a 1 mm difference. This is an easy fairing compound job.
     
  3. 300wm
    Joined: Jul 2014
    Posts: 56
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 66
    Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

    300wm Junior Member

    Thank you for the reply.

    I could use the grinder as I have two of those (variable speed Makita car polishers). As far as getting it evenly planed with that, could I just drive some very small finish nails in 1mm too deep, maybe every 6", and touch the heads with black paint? Once the head is shiny, I know I've removed enough? Once that's complete, I could just block sand with 80 grit?

    That layer has to come off...I'm too OCD to leave it and feather the joints.
     
  4. messabout
    Joined: Jan 2006
    Posts: 3,364
    Likes: 503, Points: 113, Legacy Rep: 1279
    Location: Lakeland Fl USA

    messabout Senior Member

    you can do this in minutes without the complication of nail heads. Use a simple straight edge to gauge the transition bevel angle. Sand a little and use the gauge, sand some more, use the gage.......until you get it to a degree of perfection to satisfy the OCD thing.

    If the difference is only one millimeter I agree with PAR that fairing compound will fix the problem. One millimeter is less than 40 thousandths of an inch so it is not something to threaten a good craftsman's skill or integrity
     
  5. 300wm
    Joined: Jul 2014
    Posts: 56
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 66
    Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

    300wm Junior Member

    I understand, but it could offset some of the weight. It's about 12 sq. ft. that needs to be planed, plus it has the old paint and primer. It could save me a few lbs. I'm amongst the elite with a car polisher in my hands, so I don't think it will take very long.
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    12 sq. ft. of fairing compound will be measured in ounces, not pounds saved.
     
  7. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,786
    Likes: 1,711, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    The main problem I see, is that taking off that much will probably get rid of a whole veneer. That could make it not be stiff enough.
     
  8. 300wm
    Joined: Jul 2014
    Posts: 56
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 66
    Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

    300wm Junior Member

    It's not going to take a whole veneer ( had to look that up). It will cut into the first one, some, but not all the way. The stiffness I get is from the stringers.
     
  9. 300wm
    Joined: Jul 2014
    Posts: 56
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 66
    Location: Port Charlotte, Florida

    300wm Junior Member

    I was thinking shaving off that millimeter of wood plus the paint would save me some weight verses just sanding and painting over.
     

  10. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Well, the math is simple enough. Let's assume the wood is 32 pounds a cubic foot, so 12 square feet, .04" thick (1 mm) is about 20 ounces of plywood veneer removed.
     
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. Brian Fredrik
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    1,156
  2. CaptChap
    Replies:
    4
    Views:
    1,177
  3. boony
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    2,037
  4. NorthLakeFisher
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    1,843
  5. AwJees
    Replies:
    16
    Views:
    3,183
  6. sdowney717
    Replies:
    4
    Views:
    1,925
  7. Unkorahj
    Replies:
    0
    Views:
    910
  8. johnnythefish
    Replies:
    3
    Views:
    1,430
  9. Brentmctigue
    Replies:
    12
    Views:
    1,556
  10. Sunburned One
    Replies:
    38
    Views:
    5,442
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.