Epoxy, Paint, or what???

[Mr V]

Ok, first time boat builder here. I figured I start out with something small and simple. I have an 8' rowing dingy that is made from ply. So far, it looks like a boat, so I must be on the right track.

When I am all done, I need to cover up the bare wood. When the boat is used, it will spend a few hours in the water at a time, but the time between usage will be long. I might get it out once or twice a month in the spring/summer/fall, then nothing in the winter.

I have never worked with epoxy and am a little leary of it, and the expense seems a little out of sorts with a small rowing dingy like this.

Is there any other options that I have?

And if I don't use epoxy, how do I fill in the cracks where the bottom piece of ply mates to the hull pieces?

Thanks.

My age allows me to tell you that all row boats in most of New Jersey before epoxy did beautifly for many years with nothing more hi-tech than a SPRING coat of ENAMEL paint. True many were made of solid planks but some were plywood. Don't beat it up and paint is OK. If it rots too bad, you can still build at least another for the price of 1 good coat of epoxy. By then your interests may change. Paint it colors that hold your interest.-----Fill the cracks with a Epoxy mixture of 1 1/2 hour slow set up type and saw dust. Mix the epoxy first! then add 3 to 4 parts, approx. - by volume - sawdust to 1 part of epoxy. Add the saw dust till you feel like it's enough. use a strong mixer stick. Do all flat surfaces first. then tilt and brace the boat so the next seam is almost flat. Get the idea? Watch the stuff till it firms and gets a little warm on each seam you do. Keep going till done. DO NOT let it over fill a seam, you probably will not have the tools to remove it when hard. When all are filled wait 1 more day and rough sand the epoxy, so the paint can get a good grip on it. you will do great, if you don't get critical of your work. Next boat will be easer and better.

[Mr V]

Excellent. I think even I could do that.

Next question, spray enamal or brush on? If brush, how do I keep the brush strokes from showing?

This is my first boat and NOT my last. I want to move up the ladder to something bigger. It's too much fun.

Paint the boat one FLAT surface at a time. You know- tilt and brace the boat so the surface is almost level. Don't get greedy and try to fight gravity- it always wins. Time to dry is very important. Follow paint instructions. Add 1 or 2 extra dry days. I hope you have plenty of fresh air where you are painting. Get a correct resperator if you get rainey weather impatient. It's your liver and kidneys. You should not rush the job. It is much faster to go slowly, than constantly redo areas. If you get a finish with too many dust points on it. Wait 3 to 5 days for, no doubt, the paint is dry, to pick them. Touch them up with a very small- 1/8" hobby or cheap artist brush. A serious WARNING! No one will see the specks except you, THEY don't count even if they could be seen by most other people!!! If you spill or slip, wipe it NOW. let it dry well. Resume where you were. We all slip on a job. Learn from each mistake, try not to repeat it. Bad days happen. DON'T get wrapped up in one. You can do this. Use the brush, much more control than a spray paint job.

[JEM]

I build a lot of prototype canoes and kayaks for the plans I sell.

I've found that a good porch paint is a nice inexpensive way to go. I've always used a foam roller to apply it. It's pretty durable and easy to touch up.

The bottom is what gets the most abuse so I'm generally not too picky if the touch up work blends perfectly.

[Mr V]

Porch paint? Are you talking about latex?

[JEM]

yep. Exterior latex. Works pretty good.

It's not a "showroom" looking but it looks good. It's great for a knock-around boat and you don't feel as bad when you get the unavoidable scratched and dings.

Now I must say this porch paint covering a hull that has had all the wood sealed with epoxy first. Not just covering bare wood.

[Mr V]

Originally Posted by JEM

yep. Exterior latex. Works pretty good.

It's not a "showroom" looking but it looks good. It's great for a knock-around boat and you don't feel as bad when you get the unavoidable scratched and dings.

Now I must say this porch paint covering a hull that has had all the wood sealed with epoxy first. Not just covering bare wood.

That's the kicker. I am trying to NOT use epoxy on this one. The expense and hassle seems a little beyond this type of boat.

Enamel Enamel Enamel.

[Mr V]

Originally Posted by Richard Petersen

Enamel Enamel Enamel.

You bet. It seems like a great option for this project. Now, if I can only keep my wife from helping me pick the colors! "No, honey, boats aren't suppose to be pink."

WW II submarine was painted PINK in a movie.

[JEM]

oh ok. I missed that part.

You'd probably want a differnet kind of paint or varnish then.

[PAR]

Latex or more accurately acrylic based paints are the least likely coatings to keep out moisture the dreaded evil of wooden boats.Flats are the worst followed by semi gloss and the best of the acrylics is high gloss. This is true of most paints, being that the flat is much weaker in keeping out moisture then the super high glosses are.

Enamel is next on the list (not acrylic enamel) and is an alkyd based (oil) paint. The better manufactures do produce better paints here and as a general rule you do get what you're paying for. So, if you go cheap here you'll be recoating sooner.

The remaining paints are not on your list as they are expensive, some are epoxies and become increasingly more difficult to apply.

Latex will work on the topsides of a boat, though I wouldn't use it on unprotected wood (sealed) and shouldn't be used below the waterline even in dry sailed craft as it has little abrasion resistance and ability to keep out moisture. Sure the wood will dry out but you don't want it to cycle wet/dry unless the design is of traditional construction and caulked or lapped.

Stick with a real good alkyd (oil) exterior house paint or marine enamel, high gloss. You can knock down the shine with a very fine scotch brite pad or bronze wool (also very fine) never with steel wool as you'll be chasing little rusty hairs for the rest of the boats life. You can also get an additive to kill the shine.

[pungolee]

I'd look around some boat stores and find a gallon of two part epoxy primer on sale.Interprotect 2001 is good.Use a respirator.Then paint it with any oil-based mess you can find,after sanding with 100 grit and wiping down with coleman fuel(white-gas)