Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Wooden Boat Building and Restoration
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:25 PM
nobrows1212 nobrows1212 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Rep: 38 Posts: 21
Location: denver co
Enterprise renovation-partial cold mold

Am looking for comments, especially PAR insights. Here's the deal-- the boat (fifty years old) is quarter inch mahogany marine ply over stringers of solid mahogany (they are in great shape.) The bilge panels are backed (inside) by three mahogany bilge battens (each side) of approx. 1 1/4" x 3/8", also in good shape. The other factor in play is that the bilge panels have butt-block type joints which seem a bit suspect due to the dried-out condition of the inside butt-blocking, although a previous owner ran a crosswise fiberglass and epoxy strip over the outside (bottom side) of the butt joints, which run perpendicular to the keel/keelson. I find that at my weight of 230# the bilge panels (as a floor) deflect enough to make me nervous, and their plywood has some areas of checking or deterioration through the thin surface ply on the exterior. Aside from the bilge panels, there is one additional panel (longitudinally) on each side between the bilge panel and the topside panel which meets the gunwale. Only the bilge panels have the slight deterioration areas. All fastenings appear to be in excellent shape, and stringers are very sound.

I could of course lay on fiberglass in epoxy over the bilge panels (and the keel board, which is only about 1/2" extended below the bilges), but I am contemplating making the boat's bottom "bulletproof". I am pondering cold molding kiln-dried sassafras planks of 3/16" thickness x 4" width onto the bilge panels, running them at 45 degrees to the keel line. Through the plank ends I would run screws into keelson and stringer. After embedding in epoxy, I would lay on a fiberglass strip straddling the outboard chine (sealing exposed edge of new planks); then feather; and last, overlay light fiberglass
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help, need to find good/cheap source of Cold Mold Veneer? D.R. Maffei Materials 5 03-02-2009 09:14 AM
Cold Mold Skools Out Boatbuilding 9 05-15-2007 11:05 PM
cold mold process gharr8 Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 4 10-06-2006 11:35 PM
cold mold VS Infusion>>strength/weight/cost compwest boats Materials 0 03-11-2004 11:23 AM
28 foot cold mold lprimina Powerboats 20 02-18-2004 09:43 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:53 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net