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#1
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| Drying wood I am building a wooden boat and the plans call for a 8 x 12 x 27 timber for part of the keel assembly. I can't find anything around so I was thinking of cutting down a tree and bringing it to a sawmill. I've heard that most people use white oak for boatbuilding but I was wondering if pine would be ok to use. Also would I have to let it dry before I use it since it's going to be underwater anyways? |
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#2
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| I think that most people would like to use white oak for boatbuilding, but its relative scarcity in suitable sizes and its high cost usually dictates that other species are used. Pine would not be ok to use; you need to use a species that has higher strength and rot-resistance than pine. Douglas fir would be a reasonable substitute, or possibly angelique. Yes, it is sommon practice to allow the timber to dry under controlled conditions to about 12% - 15% moisture content before working with it. If you can't find a good timber at a reasonable price, you can laminate a keel timber from smaller size stock. A 27-foot keel timber is quite a stick. What boat are you building? Forgive me for being a bit presumptuous, but from your post it seems that you may be a bit of a novice at this boatbuilding thing. Might I suggest that you buy a copy of Robert Stewart's "Boatbuilding Manual"? I think you'll find it pretty informative. Apologies if I'm off the mark here. You might also want to visit the WoodenBoat forum at www.woodenboat.com They have a section on the forum called Bulding and Repair where there are lots of experienced folk to help you, and a categorized listing of FAQ's. Just be aware that the Miscellaneous Non-Boat Related section is full of grumpy loud trolls. |
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#3
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| have you tried woodfinder.com? Or the mother of all marintime links boatbuilding supplies? http://www.boat-links.com/linklists/....html#supplies |
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#4
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| Keel logs It also could depend on the project. Is it being traditionally built or are you using a form of epoxy encapsulation. I've built and am building with yellowpine as keel material, but my projects have been a bit smaller in scope, 16-18'. Yellowpine has a fair resistancy to rot and is strong. Encapsulation will limit moisture penetration, but you'll want in fairly seasoned because it will dry in the building process. If you've purchased plans, get in contact with the designer. He should be able to help in that area. If you find that yelowpine is acceptable, see if you have a roof truss manufacturer in your area. They use a structural grade (not construction grade) timber that , in my area, is clean, straight grained, knot free yellow pine. Not to mention, cheaper then some alternatives. i.e. $1.00 / board ft. or less.
__________________ LP ---------- God bless the open minded people of the world. LP |
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#5
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| Quote:
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#6
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| Hey Bergalia, Amigo! Como esta? ![]()
__________________ LP ---------- God bless the open minded people of the world. LP |
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#7
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| Drying wood Quote:
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#8
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| Thanks for all the replies. I'm building a 40' boat that's plank on frame. I bought Buehler's Backyard Boatbuilding and that's where I got the plans from. I've never built a boat before so I have alot to learn before I begin. |
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#9
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| Just been digging up some high school espanol. You had me scratching my head too though. Good fun. It might be able to find a bathroom in Mexico someday. Never underestimate the value of a high school education. Gaelic sounds interesting. Is it still in common use anywhere? Forgive my ignorance.
__________________ LP ---------- God bless the open minded people of the world. LP |
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#10
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| Drying wood Quote:
But yes, on the Hebrides (Inner and Outer) Gaelic is still the language of first choice - unless dealing with the English...Harris, Lewis, my old home base Barra, Islay etc - and parts of the West Coast mainland Scotland. Ireland is a different matter - a good 70 percent speak the Erse (Irish Gaelic). Oddly enough though there are more (rpt MORE) Gaelic speakers over here in Australia tha in Scotland. I believe the same applies to Canada and the USA. ![]() |
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