Building a small trolling boat.

That fades out Lurvio..

nice job!

Compliments
Richard

[Lurvio]

Thank you Apex, I sure hope it does.

This pic shows the difference a bit better.


BTW, I have to sometimes question my own logic in choosing tools for a job, yesterday I faired the bottom plywood panels to the side. For the first side I used a handplane and about half an hour of pretty hard work. Just before bow I gave up and switched to an angle grinder to see how it would do. The other side was done under five minutes and with fewer marks to the remaining ply. Random orbital sander took care of what was left. A handplane is a good tool, I made all the pre-gluein fittings with one (bottom panels are butted at the stem/keel, not overlapped), but taking out a lot of material is a job for powertools.

Off to see the boat.

Lurvio

[ancient kayaker]

For fairing the ply overlap along the chines I use a router for the coarse work: I change the baseplate to a piece of plywood, glue on a spacer to one side of the bit, set the bit depth slightly less than the thickness of the spacer, and just slide the router along the lower of the ply surfaces, the bottom in your case. What's left is easily removed by hand or power sanding. I use a smaller router these days, the one in the image is a heavy brute.

[Lurvio]

A router is something I don't have yet, but it is on the shopping list.

I think an angle grinder is more flexible tool for this kind of work, but that's just my take on the matter. There is still quite a lot to fair once I get to the deck.

L

[ancient kayaker]

I find it one of the most useful power tools, right up there with the electric drill. It does all the things I can't do with other tools like rabetting, accurate bevelling, rounding and so forth. Recently I got a palm router (designed to be hand-held), half the size and about 1/3 the weight of the one in the picture, and perfect for light work along plank edges, rounding gunnels etc. Of course, nobody ever had too many (or enough) tools!

[hoytedow]

My router is a very valuable part of my tool-set. It saves a heckofalot of grinding and sanding time.

[Lurvio]

I got something done again this evening. I removed most of the glue runs from the inside of the boat and sanded a bit of radius to the edges on the frame. Then I dragged a compressor to the boat and cleaned the inside as there was spider webs and all sorts of dust on the bottom. And last, I mixed some resin and coated the inside. I somehow managed to use 0.7 liters of resin as the outside got covered with only about 0.3 liters.

The glue runs are bad enough on the sides that I'm seriously considering adding thin wood strips as paneling to the frame sides to cover the mess.
Also I have to make decisions soon on what sort of varnish to use, the options are Urethane Alkyd vs. Polyurethane. I'm leaning on the latter. I'm also thinking that if i paint the insides as planned, I could just get some black colouring paste (I already have white) and mix some nice looking gray from them. I just have to make sure the pastes are compatible with the varnishes.

Ideas on the paneling and paint/varnish are welcome.

Lurvio

[hoytedow]

Originally Posted by Lurvio

Then I dragged a compressor to the boat and cleaned the inside as there was spider webs and all sorts of dust on the bottom. ................Ideas on the paneling and paint/varnish are welcome.

Lurvio

Did you mean vacuum cleaner?

[hoytedow]

Couldn't you sand off the glue runs? If need be you could paint some decorative pin-striping to conceal blemishes and save the additional weight which paneling would add.

[Lurvio]

In hind sight a wacuum cleaner would have been a better tool, but it was a lot further away.

The runs could be sanded, but that would be with a 1x3'' wood block as that is about the biggest tool to fit between the longitudals. The paneling weight would be 0,5 kg max. About 10 pcs 4 or 5 mm thick, 40 mm wide and 1,4 meters long. And I am lazy.

L

[hoytedow]

Originally Posted by Lurvio

In hind sight a wacuum cleaner would have been a better tool, but it was a lot further away.

The runs could be sanded, but that would be with a 1x3'' wood block as that is about the biggest tool to fit between the longitudals. The paneling weight would be 0,5 kg max. About 10 pcs 4 or 5 mm thick, 40 mm wide and 1,4 meters long. And I am lazy.

L

Paneling by all means, then.

[Lurvio]

Then I just have to decide, pine/birch, paint/varnish, colour/stain/natural?

I think it's time for a shower and then some sleep.

L

[hoytedow]

Onko hyvää yötä.

[ancient kayaker]

I have success removing runs, the first 95% anyway, using a low angle block plane - carefully! Much faster than sandpaper.

A compressor sounds a good idea for cleanup. I use a leaf blower, works like a charm. I also have a 20" fan hanging from the ceiling with a furnace filter covering the intake; I run it when using the leaf blower to clean up the air quickly. It greatly reduces the dust that settles from the air and I can go straight to a tack cloth for painting or varnishing - I recommend using a sanding sealer as the first coat.

[Lurvio]

Not much done on the boat the last couple of days, just some tunnel mold fairing and I started the aft deck framing. I have to get the inside sanded, recoated with resin and painted, before I can glue in the deck framing. And before paint I have to get the tunnel laminated.

I've been trying to get the tunnel mold coated, but the PVAc (ordinary wood glue) wants to bubble a bit. I think there are some pinholes in the fairing that is causing this. I'll coat it again (fifth coat) tomorrow and if I have time, I'll test it with laying some glass in it. I think there is enough thickness in the PVA and wood putty layer to stay in shape even if some resin finds it way through. And it only has to last for the first layer to dry, then I'll remove the mold and laminate more layers inside the boat.

ancient kayaker
On a windy day its easy to clean up, as there is an air current going through my building place that will take the dust away. I'll clean the place once I get all the wood work done.

The PU-glue is actually very hard to plane as it is rubbery, I've used a sharp chisel to remove most of the run and then sandpaper.

Lurvio