Bright Work (varnishing) This Is Just My Opinion Again But I Stand By It!!!

[The copper guy]

I never recommend any particular varnish,Only that you must never use Awl grip.
There paint is very good but the varnish is impossible to spot repair?
Undeniably that statement will offend somebody but wait it gets worse.
To many so cold specialist"s Will strip and sand a hatch or worse your cabin sole to perfection and then slap resin on it, Sand until smooth 2/3 quick lick"s of varnish and it looks like a million dollars, (That is what they will
charge too?)
The problem is. If you scratch or chip, The smallest bit as with the Awl grip it is necessary to remove all trace of it back to bare wood with the sander?

There are some good two and three part finish"s available for heaver traffic areas/Mast"s/Boom"s/Deck"s/etc (Bristol finish for one)
You will still in the first instance have to apply nine coats, Before you start to VARNISH, But if you redo it before it cracks and peels just a couple of freshener coats will be adequate and chips and scratches can be disguised.
PERHAPS I AM WRONG (BURIED IN THE PAST?) BUT IT BOTHERS ME.
OK have at it guy"s

[Landlubber]

The two pack polyurethanes can be spot repaired, but it is a tedious process, and the repair will not be invisibleif the wood has been allowed to be affected.

Single pack polyurethanes (today vast majority of varnishes), are easy to repair and redo. I only use two packs for section that very rarely get contact damage, that way they look nice for a long time, and basically do not need to be repaired. Epifanes is a nice varnish for brightwork that has to be seen and touched, just make sure you use a tack cloth, and the results are quite spectacular.

[The copper guy]

You hit the nail on the head with ever point, A good tack cloth is the key to a nice finish.
Have you switched a boat from oil to varnish yet, I can switch a 52 ftr in 7 day"s on my own, No orange peel anywhere?
WANNA KNOW HOW????????

[Landlubber]

emmm...OK I will fall for it....

when I change from oil to varnish I simply wash the teak with solvent, on a wet rag, let it dry, do it again, and have never had an orange peel problem.....orange peeling is normally too much paint on too fast. Did you mean eyeing (like silicon does)? If that is the problem you can get drops from any auto paint shop supplier, my bottle is years old, yet it still works wonders.

[The copper guy]

Hi Landlubber.
No orange peel is from applying varnish on oily wood?
When i change them out it is normally because the owner has just kept oiling it instead of cleaning it, the result is thick dark gum?
I use oven cleaner!!!
Then start from scratch

[dskira]

I do my own varnish and paint.
Linseed oil, beewax, rosin, turpentine.
it work very well, easy te do touch up, and you can varnish any time you want. Put a little japan dryer if in a hurry. But nobody on boat should be in a hurry, As for the imperfection, you can mix a little bit of tallow. You can also add a little of pine tar for the deck, gave a nice darker tone, and smell very good.
Daniel

[troy2000]

Originally Posted by dskira

I do my own varnish and paint.
Linseed oil, beewax, rosin, turpentine.
it work very well, easy te do touch up, and you can varnish any time you want. Put a little japan dryer if in a hurry. But nobody on boat should be in a hurry, As for the imperfection, you can mix a little bit of tallow. You can also add a little of pine tar for the deck, gave a nice darker tone, and smell very good.
Daniel

Linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine is what I use to finish rifle stocks. Gives them a deep, rich-looking finish that's easily repairable. It also makes them easy to hang onto without being sticky, and without getting slippery in wet weather. I don't like glossy, plastic-looking finishes anywhere near my guns.

I never tried adding rosin or pine tar. Do they dissolve into the mixture at room temperature, or do you have to heat it?

[dskira]

If you add rosin, which is some kind of binding, you should melt it with your beeswax, then add the linseed oil. Be cautious with rosin, make some experiment.
I always do my paint on a hot plate, I find it easier to mix. But carefull of the heat, to much you ruin your varnish.
The pine tar gave this very dark tone, not everybody like it, it is a personal taste. On boat it protect pretty well the wood, in a riffle stock it can be interesting to try.
This is the thing I like by doing all my paint myself, I can try with very simple formulas what I want. And I know what I put in my paint or varnish.
I am like you I don't like the super glossy plastic looking warmish. It can't age.
A good varnish age very well, and take a unique patina if made with natural product.
Daniel

[troy2000]

Originally Posted by dskira

If you add rosin, which is some kind of binding, you should melt it with your beeswax, then add the linseed oil. Be cautious with rosin, make some experiment.
I always do my paint on a hot plate, I find it easier to mix. But carefull of the heat, to much you ruin your varnish.
The pine tar gave this very dark tone, not everybody like it, it is a personal taste. On boat it protect pretty well the wood, in a riffle stock it can be interesting to try.
This is the thing I like by doing all my paint myself, I can try with very simple formulas what I want. And I know what I put in my paint or varnish.
I am like you I don't like the super glossy plastic looking warmish. It can't age.
A good varnish age very well, and take a unique patina if made with natural product.
Daniel

I have an old .410 Stevens bolt-action shotgun I think I'll try the tar on. It has plain-looking wood anyway, and looks better dark. I did it in amber shellac last time, and darkened it too much; I've been planning to redo it ever since.