bad oak ribs in bow

[jesse3474]

any replys about taking out 12 steamed oak ribs sections 2x3 and replacing with saw cut ash ribs on the bow the rest can sistered. never seen rot on a boat like this, just the bow is rotting, planks, ribs, maybe original fasteners in the bow gone bad, old 40 foot 44 tacoma

[alan white]

It's no problem to use sawn frames, but ash isn't a good choice. White oak is the better choice even if you've got a line on some ash. There's enough labor there so the job's not material intensive. White oak (or live oak) will do better in an environment that has already proven to have generated rot. Stay away from red oak--- like ash, it rots readily.
Then get some better air circulation in that area.
Planking replacement should be the same species as the original wood and quarter sawn as well. Alaskan, white, red, and port orford cedars can mix however.

Alan

[PAR]

The bow section is a common location for sawn frames, as the shapes usually will permit their use. Sawn frame dimensions should be molded at least 30% more then the steamed ones and sided at least 20% more. Most will use larger dimensions then my minimum recommendations.

[jesse3474]

why not ash, cedar and oak are 4.50 bd ft , im looking at a commericial troller, and thinking of sistering the ribs from the wheel house to the stern, and replacing 30-40 planks, but the bow is tore up bad so figured chainsaw the bow out and go with ash and beam in a bulkhead wall, can i expoxy the ash, orford boat are sawn cut ash frames, is there only one type of ash,

[jesse3474]

ya taking out 2x3 ribs and puting in 4x6 ribs can u use ash,

[alan white]

Originally Posted by jesse3474

why not ash, cedar and oak are 4.50 bd ft , im looking at a commericial troller, and thinking of sistering the ribs from the wheel house to the stern, and replacing 30-40 planks, but the bow is tore up bad so figured chainsaw the bow out and go with ash and beam in a bulkhead wall, can i expoxy the ash, orford boat are sawn cut ash frames, is there only one type of ash,

Epoxy is out in treating the ash, and while some formulas would better preserve ash, the question is why do you not simply use white oak, since it costs only 30% or so more? I pay under $5.00 for white oak.
Google "wood properties" or some such and check out rot resistence of various woods.

Epoxy is a surface coating, a membrane. It penetrates a little bit, but a hardwood especially will check and the membrane is then useless---- and even undesirable, as the wood can become saturated but can't unload the water because it's now sealed in. Pick a wood that can get saturated without rotting easily. Yellow pine, live oak, white oak, etc..