attaching the deck to the hull

[bluemarble]

On a 40’ mahogany strip-planked hull what are the easiest / most effective methods of attaching the deck? I have read a few books on wooden boat construction, and I have not seen one that describes the method that I was told by a friend who is a naval architect.

What my friend said was to attach stanchions to the inside of the hull that extend up to the level of the rail and spaced about a half meter apart. Then I should attach what I think is called the deck clamp or shelf to the stanchions at the deck line. When I lay my deck beams now they will be supported 2 inches away from the hull because they are sitting on the deck clamp that is attached to the stanchions.

Every book that I have seen shows the deck clamp attached to the hull and the deck beams attached to this clamp / shelf. But every example I have seen does not have permanent rails like I will have. Does anybody have any suggestions?

Should my deck clamp sit off from the hull or should I attach the clamp as separate pieces in between the stanchions? This seems like I would loose some structural support if my deck clamp is split up though.

I’ve attached a drawing of what I was told to do, but I am not the best artist, so hopefully it will help. The ship is a Bruce Roberts Spray 40.

Thanks,
Matt

[gonzo]

The problem with stanchions is that they are a source of leaks.

[bluemarble]

Hello gonzo,
would there be a better method to attaching the deck and still keep the original look of the ship?

[gonzo]

Will the hull and deck be fiberglassed over or just painted?

[bluemarble]

Nope. The hull will be epoxy coated and painted, but no fiberglass. The deck will probably be varnished only.

[Hunter25]

Any penetrations through the deck will be a source of leaks given time and lack of care.. Some designs have them sistered against the frames, others are the frames, some land on deck with a backing plate underneath. The clamp should stand away from the hull and capture the frames heads and or stanchions, clamping them in place. The deck beams usually will be notched into this. The clamps you may have seen in books or other boats may not have been a clamp, but a sheer shelf, which usually does lie against the hull. There are many different approaches used, some better then others, none perfect.

Do not varnish the deck, you will not be able to walk on it when it is wet.

[bluemarble]

Thanks for the info Hunter25,
If I attach the deck beams to the clamp should they also be attached to the hull? The beams will extend beyond the clamp, correct? Do you know of any resources (books / websites) with information about building a boat this way?
Here is a link to a bunch of pictures of my boat.
http://matt-barker.com/boat/boat_moving/

Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
- Matt

PS - the deck will be teak and I will probably oil it. Didn't mean to write varnish.

[yipster]

seeing the pics i almost start liking wooden boats again
stancions on bulwark on a wooden boat?

[Hunter25]

You should use the setup Roberts designed into that version of his Spray series for your beams. You could cause a world of hurt for yourself if you start changing the way structural pieces are attached or held together. If you do not have plans, get them. It is a small price to pay for having things go together right. Roberts also has a support group that may be some help, but I do not know the web address.

[gonzo]

Is your naval arquitect friend modifying a Bruce Robert's design, or are you showing a Bruce Roberts only as an example of the type of boat?

[djwkd]

surely there must be a type of 'marine glue' or something,that would be your best option, but im a newbie so...if i were you id get someone elses approval.

[djwkd]

looks like a nice boat,how bug is she?

[djwkd]

how big is she,sorry.

[bluemarble]

Originally Posted by gonzo

Is your naval arquitect friend modifying a Bruce Robert's design, or are you showing a Bruce Roberts only as an example of the type of boat?

Gonzo,
The design is a 40' Bruce Roberts - Spray
The original owner was going to modify the design of the deck (add a pilot house) but I am going to stay as true to the original design as I can. I may change small things, but nothing that will affect the boats performance. The picture I posted earlier is close to what my ship will look like. I have the plans for the gaff rigged schooner.

Do you know of the best way to avoid leaks at my stanchions? or any advice about some methods for building this style boat?

Thanks,
Matt

[Deeman]

Do you know of the best way to avoid leaks at my stanchions?
Drill Oversize holes.
Fill with epoxy
Drill holes for bolt size.
Mount backup plates with 5200
Coat bolts with epoxy or 5200 and install.
Use bolts & nuts - no screws.
Takes forever- last forever- strong, no leaks.

I'm making alum back-up plates now.
Eric H