1957 Chris Craft Capri decking

[alan white]

Originally Posted by nam57

G.G. The wood is moghany not plywood, at first when I began to pull the deck I thought it was plywood besause of the width and the board had so many coats of paint I could no tell untill I cut into the board.So it is all maghony at this point. I guess that the back pieces could be planks that are very well glued together, regardless it sounds like I need to look to prepare the repllacement planks to be about 5 1/2 inches wide and not worry about what the ones I removed seem to be.

Thanks
Neal

Makes sense. The grooves in the boards that appear to be three narrow planks are only about 1/8" deep and 1/8" wide. Best done on a table saw. Planking not removed will have to have its grooves renewed. They used white lead to make the original white stripes but nowadays they are filled with 5200 which dishes in and matches the caulk in the groove between the actual planks. Then white paint is rolled (or brushed) into the seams.
The best way to renew the old seams is with an eighth inch carbide veining router bit on a laminate trimmer or Dremel router.
On the new planks, try to find a table saw blade that's 1/8" wide or do two passes with a narrower blade. The space between each plank-set 5 1/2" wide is done with a 1/8" spacer and once installed the boards can expand and contract a bit and the caulk takes up the slack.

[nam57]

I have taken a short break from the thread to read "How to restore your wooden runabout" by Danenberg. In this book I did not see a mention of using any thing but butt joints on the planking when reinstalling. On this thread it has been mention that I should route joints in the deck planking. I am unsure on which way to proceed with the planking, It seems that the bottom and side planks are butted to each other which allows for easy faring and adjustments when mounting, seems clear cut on these planks. On the deck I plan on changing the desgin from the orginal Capri desgin to something closer to what is in the attached picture. Not sure how this will affect the value of the boat but it sure is nice looking. Whith changing the deck desgin is it then important to retain the orginal power train or does it make sence to change to drive train to a v8 that is more workable or repairable?

[alan white]

Originally Posted by nam57

I have taken a short break from the thread to read "How to restore your wooden runabout" by Danenberg. In this book I did not see a mention of using any thing but butt joints on the planking when reinstalling. On this thread it has been mention that I should route joints in the deck planking. I am unsure on which way to proceed with the planking, It seems that the bottom and side planks are butted to each other which allows for easy faring and adjustments when mounting, seems clear cut on these planks. On the deck I plan on changing the desgin from the orginal Capri desgin to something closer to what is in the attached picture. Not sure how this will affect the value of the boat but it sure is nice looking. Whith changing the deck desgin is it then important to retain the orginal power train or does it make sence to change to drive train to a v8 that is more workable or repairable?

Right, there are only butt joints between the planking, sides and ends. The butts are backed by battens let into the frames. the planks are screwed to both battens and frames.
The decking planks are routed or saw-kerfed twice making the appearance of three individual planks.
If you rout, which is fine, get a 1/8" veining bit and set it at 1/8"- 5/32" depth.
If you saw, hopefully your kerf is about 1/8". If the saw blade is too narrow, you will have to make two passes.
I mentioned the use of a 1/8" router bit to clean out white lead putty (which is hard as a rock) out of decking that isn't being removed from the boat. this method is easy and accurate. You use a guide which is clamped down (or nailed with brads). Run the router (we used a square base laminate trimmer that sold for about $100.00) against the guide.
I think there are certain people who really know these boats, who have money, and who control the market in restored boats. They are the ones who pay most for perfectly restored examples---- where even the inner diagonal bottom planking (originally individual boards) is replaced by plywood for longevity BUT the plywood is scored with a saw or router to simulate the original planking.seams. It sounds like overkill because to see the diagonal simulated planks the cockpit sole must be removed!
You have to decide which way to go. If your boat isn't missing any expensive hardware and all you need to do is a couple of months of restoration to make it like the original, then remember the value will be from 30-50k. If you just relax and personalize the boat, it will never command such a price, and it will be worth maybe 12-15k.
Your choice.

A.

[nam57]

Alan, Thanks for the reply, I am replacing all planks on the boat, even the under planking on the bottom. I am putting planks instead of plywood and then 1/2" maghony on the bottom. I plan on using white oak for the under planks and also several of the frame peices from the bow to the transom. I don't plan on replacing all of the frame peices although I have found rot in about six of them so far. Do you see a problem with mixing maghony and white oak on the fraame peices? I also have a couple of hairline cracks in the nose peice, I am sure this a very expensive part to have milled, do you know of any way to secure this peice from cracking further?

[alan white]

Originally Posted by nam57

Alan, Thanks for the reply, I am replacing all planks on the boat, even the under planking on the bottom. I am putting planks instead of plywood and then 1/2" maghony on the bottom. I plan on using white oak for the under planks and also several of the frame peices from the bow to the transom. I don't plan on replacing all of the frame peices although I have found rot in about six of them so far. Do you see a problem with mixing maghony and white oak on the fraame peices? I also have a couple of hairline cracks in the nose peice, I am sure this a very expensive part to have milled, do you know of any way to secure this peice from cracking further?

I don't see any problem at all with mixing mahogany and white oak for frames. I DO see a problem using white oak for the bottom or any planks. White oak is not as amenable to drying out as luan or Honduras mahogany.
White oak is great for coamings that are kept varnished on both sides, or frames that are kept in the dark and cool. I would hesitate to use the oak because the fasteners might not prevent it from pulling when it drys faster on the outside than the inside. Spanish cedar, Luan, Honduras, white cedar, yellow pine, or cypress would be better choices.
The nose piece (of the deck) isn't hard to make. The original cracked because the varnish, bedding and caulking dried out and moisture got into the end grain.
My contention is that any cracks are an indication that the pieces should be rebedded/ caulked/ varnished--- and if you do that, why not make new pieces? You install rectangular blocks and then shape them after they're installed. The bungs are really deep, to allow for material removal.
Or did you mean the stem piece?

[nam57]

Its the nose peice, haven't gotten to the stem yet. On the nose you just screww on 8/4 maghony to build up and then shape, sounds easy

[alan white]

Originally Posted by nam57

Its the nose peice, haven't gotten to the stem yet. On the nose you just screww on 8/4 maghony to build up and then shape, sounds easy

Okay. But it's probably 12/4 mahogany. If I recall, it's pretty thick. Go thick if in doubt!
There is some variation in the nose design as well. Some noses are butted to a deck center "king plank" with a straight cut and some are fitted to a curve.
The ones fitted to a curve on their aft edges are a bit of work to begin with. The 1/8" joint (for caulking) is made by bevelling the top of the joint down to a depth of maybe 3/4". The side edges of the (usu.) three pieces have an actual 1/8" gap. Bedding fills up the lower portion of the gap and caulk (usu.#5200) fills up the upper gap.

A.

[nam57]

Well I am just about ready to flip this baby over, I only need to remove the cover boards and I will be down to the sheer boardon the deck. Afyer I get the engine pulled I will install 1"x 4" braces from top side frame to the opisite top side frame for strength during thr roll. I am working to create some saw hores to rest her on while upside down, but am a little confused on how to level the boat once inverted. Should I level the keal or the engine trusses? IfI level the engine stringers I am guessing that I need to install blocks under the shear tp keep the frames from sagging and square?