1957 Century Palomino: Help with interior framing

[aesciarrino1]

I have a 57' Palomino, 15' outboard with the floor and seat frames missing. I am looking for any help with the layout I can get.

[Kruez]

You might want to talk to these guys: http://www.centuryboatclub.com/
http://centuryboatclub.com/decade/50...soutboards.htm
http://www.centuryclassicpowerboat.com/cat.htm

[aesciarrino1]

Thanks for replying. I am, or was, a member of the Century Boat Club. Unfortunately, the club is more of a social status thing than a resource for restoration-no insult intended. Again, thanks for trying.

[Kruez]

Call Jeff, if he may know where to find your information...

http://woodenboatbuilder.multiply.co...ssic_Runabouts


Lou at: http://www.antiqueboat.com/ is also a good resource. He's been at it for a long time. He has a 15' '57 Palamino listed that's in Colorado.
http://www.antiqueboat.com/boatdetails/Spau15O.aspx

He keeps good files and they also do restorations. He may have some resources for you as well...

[teakcell]

HI, let me know what kind of help you need. We make teak floor ready to glue on deck and other custom item out of teak solid or composite. Please be more specific as I'm sure that I can advice. Bye

[aesciarrino1]

Here are some photos that show where I'm at with the boat right now.
I would be interested in finding out prices on your product-even in pristine condition this boat would only be worth under $10,000.00, so I can't spend too much. Thanks.

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF1616.jpg
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF1617.jpg
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF1614.jpg
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF1615.jpg

[teakcell]

We could do of course all the floors hatches ready to fit lightweight or not on the boat but you would have to send me plans/drawings.
Now it all depends what your goal is. If you renovate for pleasure, I suggest that you make all furnitures with marine plywoods mahogany veneered. Then you varnish the whole (hull and inside) in one time. Might be funny.

[alan white]

I'll go out on a limb and take your word the boat has no value potential beyond 10k. The seat and sole framing ought to be dead simple. The important thing is that it's constructed correctly to mitigate any future problems with rot.
If you use white oak or yelllow pine or even phillipine mahogany or spanish cedar, and put a good amount of wood preservative on it, it should be possible to see where the frames used to be---- they would usually go across the boat and be supported by the keelson in the middle (unless there's a walk-around engine).
If you space the beams about 16" apart, you can place sections of 1/2" plywood atop the beams. You'll want to support the fore/aft edges too, meaning each area is supported on all four sides. The seats are like islands rising out of the bilge--- the floor section go around and not under them. Normally, you'd face the seat boxes above the floor level with 1/2" or 3/8" plywood, and cover with naugahyde to match seats, screw on with stainless cup washers and stainless screws.
Think in terms of avoiding water traps, allowing all water to flow back to the stern, and use stainless or better, bronze screws. Don't use brass if stainless is available. Carriage bolts (1/4") can also be used. They should be stainless or bronze, though bronze is becoming ridiculous in price these days.
Paint the ply, or there are some very nice and very expensive veneered marine plywoods that can be varnished (that boat likely was delivered with a painted or carpeted sole). I think a dove gray is great, and porch and deck enamel works fine (three coats, no primer, both sides).

[PAR]

Truly fine, original examples of these can gather over 20 grand. Nicely restored just under that, with 15K being a fair price for well kept, restored versions. In this market, 10K would be reasonable for a good Palomino.

Since you're on a budget and not particularly interested in the highest resale value, make it the way you want.

The soles in these were pretty simple, a 1x2 cleat down each side, screwed to the frames, with athwart stringers to hold it up in the middle. Plywood was laid over this and screwed down to the cleats and stringers.

The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level. Level the boat, then using a laser, make a level line where it hits each frame. This is where your cleat will live. The cleat has to bevel to match the flare of the topside planking, but it's not very hard to pick these angles with a bevel gauge on each frame. Connect starboard side frames with the port using a 1x2 stringer at the same line, then cut plywood to fit the two areas you need soles. Leave the other areas open for good ventilation.

Unless your budget suddenly swells up, don't even consider mahogany or teak veneer plywood. Plane old marine grade will suit you fine. Put a nice painted finish on it (no carpet), maybe with a little texture and you're go to go.

[aesciarrino1]

Thanks guys. I'll use marine plywood, as you suggested. There are so few of these that I've found for sale that it's hard to know what it's worth. I want it to be true to the original, if not 100% accurate. I will post pictures as it comes together.

[flat broke]

I have just started on a Palomino myself. I believe it has its original interior. I would be happy to send pictures/patterns.

The rear deck/engine well area has collapsed so I spent this afternoon removing the deack and supporting structure. It looks as though the transom has been reinforced (had a 1957 Johnson V4 50 hp about 300 lbs). Hard to tell what is original in that area. Would you be able to send some detailed pictures of that area?

Also some substantial fore and aft stringers either side of the keel that do not appear in your pictures?

The deck screws appear to be drilled for plugs but are just filled with putty. Is your boat the same?

I agree the about your valuation of the boat but it is still nice to keep it as original as possible.

Tony

[flat broke]

I will try again

[flat broke]

I sat down in front of the computer last night to try an work out why the stringers look beefier on my boat than yours. In 1957 Century offered a vertically mounted inboard/outdrive unit on "Colt" version of the Palomino. This proved unreliable and many boats were converted to outboard configuration by Century. Given that my boat is a 57 and has the extra boxing and stringers in the stern, I am guessing it started life as a Colt. Unfortunately the rear deck retrofit is a little weak and has collapsed over the years.

Check out a Colt here:
http://www.carolina-classic-boats.co...sp?boat_id=173


Tony

[aesciarrino1]

Here are some better shots of the framing. I figured out the sole frames and have started to make the plywood gussets that are missing. The previous owner had the transom and two ribs replaced. I have no clue how the motor well frames out. I also started scrapping the caulk out of the decking seams. As soon as I have some time and the weather breaks (32 was the high today) I am painting the bottom so I can drop it back on the trailer to varnish.

[aesciarrino1]

FYI to Flatbroke: the V4, 50 HP was first introduced in 1958. Check out "aomci.org" website for details.