10 ft "cabin" cruiser

Probably the best way to do it but I have WAY too little patience to do it that way.
Being impatient has caused me more trouble than benefit over the years so.....how daft can someone be to keep going on the "wrong" way LOL !!?

Thanks for the info though.

 

Never mind... I should really read properly before shooting my fingers off...

That boat is going to have some "heft" to it... Probably more than you had planned (it usually is). Birch ply is heavy, as is glass/resin and even paint adds measurable weight. You also have a lot of framing in hefty sizes. I hope you accounted for all that weight in your design.

 

A lot of small boat designs use temporary forms/frames in the construction, to avoid stressing the stringers. Temporary forms can be nailed up or bolted together, from the cheapest, least attractive, worst species of wood for boat building. They are temporary, and removed after bottom and sides installed.
Often the temporary form includes a permanent piece of wood, example a deck beam, that is finely wrought from clear fine lumber. The unwanted crude heavy form parts are unbolted and removed after bending stress operations are complete.

 

you're correct Steve, it's going to be a hefty boat by all means.
To be honest, the boat wasn't realy "designed", it almost grew itself together with a few rough dimensions in mind and wood recycled from a colapsed car port.It's way overdone,I realize that but it's the best I can do.

 

That makes sense....if you know what you're doing, which isn't the case LOL.

 

Westel.
Never deprecate yourself.
There are always people ready to do it for you.
I think your design is very neat for the purpose you stated.
I appreciate you used available lumber, but the overall structure is unnecessarily heavy.
Pivoting leeboards would be more effective than the horizontal rails.
4mm ply throughout would be fine, along with 3/4"x3/4' stringers.
Completely coated with Marine Epoxy, inside and out, with F/Glass taped seams and a
1"x4" along the keel line for protection when beaching, would be just fine.
Just my 2c worth.

 

old sailor is right. And an advantage of a small vessel such as yours, is it needs less equipping. In point of reference, you really don't need TWO leeboards.
A single leeboard can be moved from one side to other side if it isn't heavy, ie for a small boat.
An interesting method for doing this, is an eyebolt low down on the centerline. Connect a length of chain just long enough to reach the gunwale either side. The top of the leeboard also has an eyebolt which is shackled to the gunwale end of chain.
The chain links allow twist to rotate angle of the leeboard in the water and the chain pulling and water pressure pushing keeps the leeboard vertical against the side. A long rubbing strip of hard wood low on each side keeps the leeboard from chafing the hull and paint. Simple and cheap.

 

A single leeboard can be made a little longer and left on one side permanently. Most of Michalek's boats that have leeboards are this way and they work fine. I've used it myself with no noticeable issues

 

I like it! Simpler the BETTER!

 

Hello "oldsailor",

it's not so much a matter of deprecate myself it's just that my limitations become very clear when working on something without the obvious needed knowledge.
I know that "some people" are waiting in line to make meatloaf from someone's idea's or doings but sometimes that says more about them than about the person they attack.
An experienced boatbuilder or engineer/naval architect would build my little boat the way you describe and it more than probably would be just as strong as the way I'm building it.

The little I know about sailboats agrees that a leeboard is more effective than the chine runners.
The chine runners however are a small permanent structure and probably less vunerable to breakage/damage than a leeboard.

Maybe someday I will build a boat as it should be build

Thanks for the thumbs up !!

 

A little progress.
Hull sides epoxied to the frame. White oak piece for the bow and the chine runners epoxied in place.
Really need to be more carefull with the epoxy.....drips and runners take ages and a lot of elbow grease to remove !!

 

Orbital sander makes removing drips and runs a breeze.

 

"The chine runners however are a small permanent structure and probably less vunerable to breakage/damage than a leeboard."

True.
But by the same token they are incredibly inefficient compared to a simple vertical foil.

 

You are correct,"nothing" can beat a leeboard in simplicity-cost and effectiveness but....for one or another reason I had set my mind on chine runners.
They seem to work "well" for certain boats/sailors although we'll never know that defenition of "well". Might be that they aren't working as expected but that the creater/builder rather "dies" than admitting he made a mistake in going for chine runners instead of leeboards/keel.
Pehaps that "sufficient" is good enough in some cases,I don't know.

It probably wont be the last questionable choice I make....

 

Agreed, even my little beltsander is a very helpfull tool.....if I can reach those damn spots which are in perfect view but impossible to reach with any powertool
Being sloppy and a bit careless are probably not the "skills" a boatbuilder needs. Let that be the "skills" I'm outsanding in..... LOL !!!