10 ft "cabin" cruiser

Think this might work for you. certainly cheap. One handed operation.
instead of the rubber band and hook to hold the tube end higher than the bottle, how about epoxy a clothes pin to the bulkhead? Or ANY small spring clamp.

The yellow striped green tube is a popular garden hose in the USA. :X

 

I like the idea but wonder how air must replace the used water in the bottle.
I can take the bottle off and turn it upside down to let air in I guess every time I tap some water.
There are "clever" dispencer taps that let air enter while taping water to avoid the vacume.
Most of those plastic dispencer taps only cost a few $$ so it's more a matter of finding the right one.
Drill a hole in the existing bottle cap, fix the tap to it and change the cap/tap when the bottle is replaced.

It's one of those minor "problems" that can become obsessive trying to fix it LOL !!!

Thanks for thinkering !

 

Hinge pins at bottom. PVC pipe through a couple holes and the jug handle as a lock


tips and pours

The only other suggestion I have, maybe the faucet you want and can't find is, because you are thinking of a type of water dispenser used for pets. Can't read your mind, but maybe worth a look. cheers.

 

I like this so much I think I will mount one on my trailer for camping where no water supply is at hand.

As for faucets/spigots this would work: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1287467

 

http://www.akro.co.uk/5-litre-bottle-refill-tap-147tap.php



http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Brows..._3/3|cat_33007546|Water carriers|33010863.htm

 

The problem is that most of the taps are for a water bottle that is turned horizontal, not upside down.
My water bottle will be inverted 180°.
Look at the pictures "lewisboats" has posted and imagine to turn those bottles another 90°.
The mouth of the tap is than faced horizontal. Rather tricky to fill a glass that way I guess.
I often cant read my own mind so ........
I will have a look at those dispensers for pets, thanks

 

Is it better to first coat the area's with epoxy before a fillet is made ?
I'm planning on using wood flower to thicken the epoxy for the fillets.
Watched some youtube vids about filleting but am afraid that it looks simpler than it actually is.....

 

Best way I have learned to fillet is to tape with blue painter's tape the boarders of your fillet, then pre-wet the joint, fillet with your mixture and let get to slightly tacky. Pull the tape while slightly tacky and glass immediately while the whole thing can bond the best. This way eliminates having to sand the fillets (if you do a decent job and they aren't too bumpy) and comes out nice, with even edges from the blue tape. Cleanup is easy too, with most drips and drops landing on the blue tape and not on the ply.

Here the fillets are still slightly tacky, after having pulled the blue tape. Notice how nice they are shaped.



Here is the other side still with the blue tape on it.



Here is the FG tape (strips of cloth actually... not selvaged tape) cut to length and fitted.



Tape wetted out.



Close up. The corners are overlapped by each seam that is taped for a super solid piece. If you epoxy and tape while the previous layer is still a bit tacky... you don't usually have to deal with blush and you get one solid chemically bonded piece instead of layers mechanically bonded

 

Thanks !!!!

 

I've found that a kitchen mixing spatula works great for smoothing in fillets. Their soft, pliable nature acts as a squeegee and gives you a nice fillet with clean edges. No clean up and no taping required. See post #59 in my thread here. It's the third (last) photo in the post.

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/wooden-boat-building-restoration/blackrock-24-build-46526-6.html

 

Made some dividers in the under the floorboard lockers.A lot of work for very little "visual progress".
Bought some 6 mm Birch plywood for the hull sides as when I tried to bend the tight curve of the bow with 9 mm Birch I both lacked hands and strenght to do this. That stuff is though !! Even the stringers started to give some cracking noises when I tried the 9 mm.
I will have to join the 6 mm panels together because they where only available in 153 cm x 127cm.It's amazing how stiff these 6 mm panels become when some bend is forced into them .
Intention was to use a thick bottom but I guess that 12 mm birch ply will be more than sufficient. A few layers of glass to finnish the job.
Not much to show in these pictures...besides my sloppy work.

 

A spanish windlass, hot water sponging both sides, and gradual incremental bends with relax times before bending some more, allows pretty tight bends in plywood.

 

I use this method, except with 2 ratcheting straps in place of rope.

 

Why not attach the panel at the bow and use the leverage of the length to bend it back. The radius of the bend is increasing then rather than decreasing...

 

That's how I proceded with the 9 mm and the force to bend the plywood was so great that the stringers (correct term ?) started to make "funny" noises.
The max. length for the 9mm birch was 2.42 m so I needed a joint. I thought about cutting the panel in half lengthwise to make the bending process easier but than I would have at least 3 joints in one "complete" panel.
With the 6 mm I have one joint.
I only have my "intuition" to guide me regarding strenght so I hope I'm OK with 6 mm hull sides.They will receive one/two layers of epoxy/glass to add strenght.