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#16
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| Thanks for sharing! I will read these and see if I can use them ![]()
__________________ www.berserkdesign.com |
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#17
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| The motor is 1.5 L . Most racing boat organizations HAVE STRICT requirements on types of metals, sizes & locations of rudders. The rudder like the rest of the boat MUST PASS a technical inspection by a technical inspector. You really need to contact your national racing organization & find out what they will allow you to do. Save you a TON of aggravation & money. The big boats must use the same Aluminium Armor plate used in a tank for the rudder. $$$$$ Helped a friend spend $ 3,000 for a GP class rudder. We tried to get a waiver for a better rudder material. No chance. Check with the ?? APBA or whatever you must join to race. I have seen people buy the material that was OK until 6 months before they ordered. Wasted money. Receipt was proof of obsolete material used in the boat. Talk to Experienced people FIRST. Enjoy designing & building your boat. Plan ahead. Avoid getting upset by the rules. One other thing. DO NOT copy a older boat. Rules have changed. Can not do some of the things he did. |
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#18
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| Since October when I got the plans, this is what has been going on in my shop. The boat is built, except for paint and rigging. The final drive has been built and installed. The drive and engine cradle are hinged at the transom in order to have a trimmable prop shaft. The motorcycle engine is not mounted to the cradle yet, that will be this weeks work. My question is,,,,,,,,,Where is the centerline pivot for the rudder? Would it be at 20% of the rudders width from the leading edge ![]() ? My aluminum rudder blank is 5 inches wide by 15 inches tall, and 3/8 thick. |
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