Volvo 280 Leg Tilt will not activate up or down.

[KSTEEL]

Off a 260 in a Bayliner.

Symptoms on neighbour's boat are as follows:

- Cruised all season until recently when backing up, the prop came up to the surface.

- Shortly thereafter, he noticed the leg would not deploy down fully using the switch, so he'd step on it to get it down and get himself home.

- Working on it, he took off the tilt motor just inside the engine compartment, cleaning it, as well as we checked inside the black plastic relay box, sitting loosely atop a shaft just abaft the main motor. Refitted everything.

- Switch down, now yielded the leg dropping successfully. Switch up, now yielded the leg lifting successfully. And did so for three ups and downs. Then nothing.

- 12 volts are traveling back from the switch, for both the switch up and switch down position.

- 12 volts are making in "to" the relays and the resistor inside the black plastic casing, But not coming out.

- the electric tilt motor has been bench tested under load successfully.

I'm afraid I am not a volvo or bayliner man, so any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks




Kyle

[CDK]

Mechanical friction may very well have been the initial cause of the malfunction. That has not been resolved by stepping on the leg.

After cleaning the motor succeeded 3 times to lift and lower the leg, then something in the box burned out due to excessive current. Most probably the center contact in a power relay.

[KSTEEL]

CDK, thanks.
Burned out, tells me that it is probably a replaceable component, then.

I will hunt for actual components or to replace the entire box....

but what is the actual term for this black plastic casing/box that just rests lazily on top of a shaft?
Do you recommend swapping out the entire box, to start? Again, I have replaced the two five pin relays? Is it the centre a resistor?

Thanks,

Kyle

[CDK]

I could maybe answer these questions if you post a picture, but I'm quite sure that in a boat nothing should 'rest lazily on top of a shaft'.

The relays have two pins for the coil and three for the NO, C and NC contacts. Their function can be easily tested.
There should be a diagram on one side of the relays or the pins are numbered, like 30, 85, 86, 87 and 87a.

[KSTEEL]

I shall post them in a few hours...thank you kindly

[powerabout]

The switch in the center mounted on the housing is a micro switch that shuts the motor off when it tilts right down.

[KSTEEL]

Photographs attached:

[CDK]

KSTEEL, your attempts to upload have not been successful.

[KSTEEL]

Odd, it says 'done' when i do it. I have 9 detailed photos, may I email them to you?

navyksteel@hotmail.com

Kyle

[Jeff]

Please also email them to webmaster@boatdesign.net - I'd like to see why they didn't upload for you above.

[KSTEEL]

Sure thing. Emailing them now

[Jeff]

Got the photos and included above.

[CDK]

Kyle, I received your pics and so did Jeff.

I enlarged and filtered an image of the relay box, from which I draw the following conclusions.

1. Somebody rewired the tilt using household appliance cable. Nothing against that, but an official Volvo wiring diagram doesn't apply anymore.
The small gray terminal block (right) is meant for solid wires and 16 Amps. Because there are stranded wires and approx. 30 Amps here, better replace it with a screw type or crimp terminals. It may not provide good contact and be the cause of problems.

2. The gray block in the middle is a limit switch. I tried to identify it but the picture isn't sharp enough. In the position it was photographed in, it should conduct, when installed it interrupts at the end position of the leg. You can easily test that with a multimeter.

3. The relays used are std automotive types. Three contacts are lined up, the middle one (30, black wire) is for the tilt motor, the others are the relay coil (40-60 Ohms between 85 and 86). The two perpendicular contacts are 12V + (87) and 12V - (87a).
When a relay is not powered, it conducts between 30 and 87a, when the coil gets 12V, it conducts between 30 and 87.

4. In order to work properly, the box must be secured to the end of the shaft tube and the limit switch must have its actuator pin in the hole.

What I do not see in any of the pictures is a fuse!

[KSTEEL]

Many thanks,

I will begin sorting out the problems...I do not see a place in the circuit for a fuse. Certainly not inside the box. But you are right. There is no fuse.

The Box has been secured down and is now firmly in place on top of the shaft tube, yet no porer leg operation up or down. Both up and down yield clicking, but no voltage is moving through the wires that connect to the Magnetic motor.

Kyle