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  #31  
Old 01-07-2007, 11:54 PM
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gonzo gonzo is offline
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vapor separators in marine use have to be closed. They look like a carburator bowl, with a float that operates a needle valve. When there are vapors in the system, the float goes down and the vacuum from the manifold sucks it in . As the system gets purged of vapors, the float goes up until the needle valve closes. I think a canister would be illegal in a boat.
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  #32  
Old 01-10-2007, 05:19 PM
Dennis T Dennis T is offline
 
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Beech 2000, could you send me your e-mail please, I got a question for you. Thank you letsgorace@adelphia.net
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  #33  
Old 02-02-2007, 05:02 PM
Beech2000 Beech2000 is offline
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Who makes the best manual for building the small block chevy for marine use beside mercruiser. (i.e. fits and clearances, ring gaps, torques dimensions etc...)

Mercruiser wants to much money for the oem manual.
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  #34  
Old 02-02-2007, 05:20 PM
stonebreaker stonebreaker is offline
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There are lots of engine building books out there. One of the most respected engine authors out there is David Vizard. Here's a link to his smallblock chevy rebuilding book.
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  #35  
Old 02-02-2007, 05:55 PM
Beech2000 Beech2000 is offline
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Thanks Stone,

Oh by the way the I chose not to boil the block but did have it FPI'ed and no cracks. I also had the deck(s) cleaned up and had each cylinder nitrogen pressure checked to 4000PSI unheated and found no leaks.

Also the both intake and exhaust valves are steel. Will be replacing exhaust valves with stainless for marine use. any recommendations?

I was shocked to see the factory did install brass freeze plugs.

So far so good..
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  #36  
Old 02-02-2007, 10:34 PM
stonebreaker stonebreaker is offline
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I used Manleys in my engine, but Ferrea valves are also really popular with the high performance crowd. Check out Mahle pistons - they're really high tech. They use special low expansion alloy in their forged pistons, and they use special coatings to reduce friction on the skirts.

This guy is a buddy of mine: http://www.ellweinengines.com/ he's a nuclear reactor operator in his day job - the engine building is how he pays for his race car. Most of the stuff for the LT1 will also fit the vortec engines.

Oh yeah - here's his hobby site: http://www.karl-ellwein.org/
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  #37  
Old 02-09-2007, 09:18 PM
Beech2000 Beech2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jango View Post
4800 RPM with driver only is exactly right. Your prop is correct.

Summit Racing sells an Edelbrock Marine 4 Brl for about the same cost as the Auto version. I use the 750 cfm unit on my boat - very good carb.

I believe S.S. valves are used on GM motors although not sure. By choice my marine Ford has S.S. valves.

If at all posible, use the Roller lifter/cam - an automatic 50 hp and 50 ft - lb even with the same duration/lift.

Good luck, sounds like you're on the right track.

Jango
Jango, What PN Edlebrock manifold did you use? All I find is square bore from Summit for Vortec
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  #38  
Old 02-10-2007, 07:02 AM
Beech2000 Beech2000 is offline
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Never mind Jango, Didn't read the ford the first time.
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