marine vs. automotive - Vortec

Discussion in 'Sterndrives' started by Beech2000, Jan 1, 2007.

  1. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

    Nope,

    My friend just gets the long block to keep. The trucks get new long blocks every 8 years. This one has 217,000 miles on it which is more than I originally thought. I just received the service records on it. They retained the fuel injection system for use on the new long blocks. So knowing this I am forced to go the whole way and rebuild. In regards to the MEFI I thought I would have to purchase each piece which would total over 1,500. Plus again since I am running this for marine I am going to stay away from aluminum. Sure wish aluminum would work in marine for weight.

    Oh speaking of weigh, I assume there will be little difference in weight between the 305 and the 350 right??? Please say yes LOL..

    With dual battery set up and heavy V8; I seem to always ask my Daughters to sit up front. The V6 powered 190BR's run about the same speed as mine and is really the better choice of engine for my boat. This being said, I just like the V8's better and OK with the extra weight.Plus my boat has captains choice exhause which is a hit at coctail coves.

    I am going to pickle, preserve and dry store the 305 at my office as a back up should the 5.7 not hold up to the bruttle punishment marine engines are subjected to.

    I think I might have found a complete marine 4bbl manifold and Q jet carb removed from late model cabin crusier locally. I hope its late enough to be vortec. I am told the crusier is a 1997 which scares me because marine engines seem to be a couple of years behind detroit. I guess this is due to manufactureing time of vessel combined with mercrusers limeted orders and manufacturing time following new development or change.
     
  2. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    The exhaust valves are SS.
     
  3. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

    Gonzo,

    The exhaust valves are Stainless Steel on the 5.7 liter vortec truck application engines?
     
  4. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    AI'm not sure. They are on the marine application ones. The exhaust on wet exhaust engines gets a lot of humidity after the engines stops.
     
  5. stonebreaker
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    stonebreaker Senior Member

    You might try some junk yards to find the parts you need - fuel rail, injectors, fuel regulator, stuff like that. I went to the first place that popped up on Google - http://www.partshotlines.com and found several "fuel injection assemblies" for around $100-150. You'd still need to find an intake manifold and probably a throttle body, but GM sensors are cheap and the junque yard and are usually still good. You'll have to weight the cost in time to go the fuel injected route vs. the simplicity of the carb solution. Just be aware that the fuel injection is most likely going to be 50% more fuel efficient or better, so it will be the cheaper solution over the long run (but a steeper learning curve in the short term).
     
  6. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Automotive fuel injection systems are different than the marine versions. They are closed with no return line. The injectors are also calibrated to run at a different pressure. Check other threads where all that is discussed. I think you may get 15% better fuel economy at best. Stonebreaker: was that a typo?
     
  7. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

    Thanks Gonzo

    Any other differances in Marine vs. Truck version long block that you can think of?
     
  8. stonebreaker
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    stonebreaker Senior Member

    No, just me forgetting that marine fuel injection systems have no closed loop feedback (no O2 sensors). The O2 sensors are the cat's *** when it comes to part throttle fuel economy.

    On the fuel return line, the newer (LS-based) automotive systems don't use a return line anymore. Don't know about that truck in particular, but it's not hard at all to convert to a dead head system, if it's necessary for safety regs. All you need is a couple of saginaw to AN adapters, some fuel line, and an LS1 - type fuel regulator.
     
  9. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    So the new automotive type has a low and high pressure pumps and a fuel vapor separator like the marine version?
     
  10. stonebreaker
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    stonebreaker Senior Member

    They use a high pressure pump and then a regulator to adjust the pressure. How do marine fuel vapor separators work? The automotive versions use a charcoal cannister that is vented to the intake manifold.
     
  11. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

  12. stonebreaker
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    stonebreaker Senior Member

    Looks like a plan to me. You'd have to go over all the stuff, but even though it's more expensive, it's probably less of a time investment than trying to adapt an automotive system to your boat.

    As far as embedding the hyperlinks, you have to do it in the 'advanced' window (click 'go advanced'), type the words you want to appear as a link, then highlight them, click the 'insert link' icon (the blue ball over the chain link) and paste the link in the popup. It appears as hypertext in your reply pane, but once you post it shows up correctly.
     
  13. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

    Hey I happened to run accross a past thread. Deep in the thread I noticed where you and Gonzo share words.

    Who won the race?

    Looks like you resolved you differances by the several replies in this tread.

    Any way. In regards to the water logged engine on E-bay, I only consider this as an option. Still in descision phase and not sure why but I am going through my second childhood and have an itch to build an engine.

    My Drag racing day's were 25 years ago. I love the water toy's in my older years. Plus the women on the lake are barely wearing anything and sometimes nothing. I have to look harder to find beautiful girls at Commerce drag strip.

    Anyway I appreciate your input on the cams. I've learned much.
    I am in the aerospace industry overhauling Pratt & Whitney Gas / Turbine engines for light business aircraft. One model engine we support generates 1400 horse power at 1,900 prop shaft RPM and with oil weight is less than 500 pounds. Bet that would run sweet in my searay ahy? Obviosly this kind of weight vs. horse power comes with high price tag and isn't realistic.

    Here is our web site (We'll see if the hyperlink works)

    Besides I love the small block chevy.

    I will keep an eye on the e-bay engine and if the price stays below 2K, I definetly will consider it.

    See ya.
     
  14. stonebreaker
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    stonebreaker Senior Member

    Gas turbines and boats, eh? You'll definitely like this link: Nye Thermodynamics

    Take the time to completely explore this link. He's got some neat projects on there besides the turbine-powered jet boat - including the world's first wood-burning gas turbine, the NT/6.

    I'll pretend I didn't read the other part of your post. ;)
     

  15. Beech2000
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    Beech2000 Senior Member

    I find that I am more interested in staying away from aircraft and related in my spare time if you know what I mean.

    Sounds like Gonzo won.


    On another note, I had minor issue at end of season last year where my sea ray has become hard to take out of gear. I understand the dog clutch wants to stay engaged unless the engine is momentarily interrupted. So in effort to take care of problem before season starts I decided to scope situation out.

    With the stern drive cable disconnected, I can move by hand but not as freely as I would have hoped for. So I removed the drive last night. I will be ordering a new cable. Also I noticed the interrupt switch looks like hell meaning the end of the switch appears missing or melted of sort. Weird. I Will hit the marina for a new one of those as well. I started engine in garage to check operation and it eventually kills engine but not as quickly as I would expect. So using an alligator clip I shorted the input wire to ground and engine immediately quits. Definitely a bad switch.

    The only thing I am not sure about is where I can purchase locally the very long 9/16 thin wall socket to get cable housing fitting loose from bell. Anyone have some ideas?

    I have a long (But not long enough) craftsmen 1/2 drive 9/16 that becomes flush with nylon not allowing any room for ratchet square drive. I wish I could find a socket locally that has external wrenching feature as this would do the trick. I already hit the snap on truck and nothing. He's an idiot anyway so I didn't bother to look in catalog. Mercruiser must sell one but would have to order.

    I would like to be done today as I have to get on plane tonight.

    Stone, I will be heading your way for the early part of the week. Where are you in relation to Galesburg, IL?
     
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