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#1
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| concrete I have a "space" that's gonne be hard to rust protect. I "heard" to pour some concrete there will eliminate the rust in the future??? This concrete will be in a closed space far down in the keel section. |
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#2
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| If the concrete sticks to the steel tightly and stays stuck, you might be okay. If the concrete doesn't stick or is knocked loose, you'll be in more trouble you started with.
__________________ Hopefully creating something useful, since 1983. |
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#3
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| Lurvio, thanks! The "place" I wante to pour it in is a totally closed part of the keel! My thought was, to make the concrete so thin, and then pour it so it filled the "closed box" entiery and then seald(?) the "filling hole". Would this -in a long term -be a problematic place??? Hakan |
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#4
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| Keep it simple The better solution is to seal the void with plate welded to keel with threaded socket and plug fitted on filling hole. Go to any auto repair shop and get some old used oil - they would gladly give it to you free of charge just to get rid of it. Pour that into the void and screw close the plug. No way you will have rust from the inside after that and there are no side "effects" you may have with cement that will happens. BTW, I sealed all the voids in steel keels this way whilst building steel boats...
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#5
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| Great ide' wynand! thanks. |
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#6
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| I work with cement every day and advocate its use often, however I would advise against this. Soupy concrete shrinks considerably unless you use some serious admixtures and even then you would experience some delamination on large panels. I say fill it with tar ![]() |
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#7
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| I will go with Weynand and Craze. I prefer personaly tar, but saw good result with oil too. We did the oil on life boat cavities. We did the tar on fishing boat cavities. So choose your poison Daniel |
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#8
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| Concrete will probably let humidity through and create a lot of corrosion. Hot tar is a better product.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#9
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| I wouldn't use anything that could harden and pull away. Maybe very soft tar or very thick oil. |
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#10
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| Concrete is a traditional method of filling voids permanently and reacts well with steel, often used as repairs over rivets and welds or damage in ships. Old barges often have complete concrete bottoms in the bilge. It needs to be a proper mix rammed or vibrated in and the edges sealed later to prevent damp from getting in the thinner parts. |
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#11
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| Quote:
....which is quite a task. I have yet to see a vessel where the concrete did not separate from the hull causing extreme problems. Unfortunately 6 or 7 of my museums ships had sustained such a dumb treatment, and all needed some serious repairs on frames and plating after the cr@p was removed. So, I was there, have done it, got the T shirt! Leave concrete out of cavities. Regards Richard |
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#12
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#13
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| Quote:
read his posts, it is interesting and we all learn from him. Daniel |
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#14
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| Quote:
Sorry but I do not share your blind puppy faith in Richard, he says things for the sake of argument and reaction, if his knowledge is deep it certainly isn't wide so he adds ********, this still leaves a mess that must be discarded. |
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#15
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| Quote:
Having a friend who I like very much and is a great person, do not make me a puppy, but a human being, which you seams not gasp the principle. You are the ********, I try to help. Go back to your ignorance captain little penis. Daniel |
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