Weather helm on half tonner

[Paul B]

Originally Posted by Paul Kotzebue

The IOR included dimensions to establish whether or not the boat had a skeg. The net result was the boats had just enough skeg to qualify as one under the IOR.

This is all from memory for what it's worth. My copy of the IOR rule is long gone and I haven't worked on an IOR design since 1984.

Ha Ha, my dogeared copy of the rule went into the bin in 1988. Now I wish I had kept it, with all the revised sections neatly glued in over the old text.

Yes, the Rule did make designers jump through hoops, hoops the designers caused the rulemakers to put in because they would push everything to the limit.

The skegs had to be measured in every dimension, a joy for the measurers. Even the radii of the edges of the skeg had to be measured to ensure they were legal skegs.

People who never had to deal with designing or measuring to the IOR Rule have no idea just how technical little details like skegs and P brakets could be. The designer had to get it ALL right, every little detail. So did the builders.

[Paul B]

Originally Posted by nemo

However, the skeglet wraps around the leading edge so maybe it just looks like the counterbalance is below it.. anyway I'll take some pictures in the weekend.

The dashed line in the detail picture I posted is the CL of the rudder post. All the area in front of that is counterbalance.

Originally Posted by nemo

I believe increasing the aspect ratio would be good, even if maybe in light airs the boat would feel the additional drag caused by the increased area.

If you are able to make a thinner post and rudder you can shorten the chord length along the entire rudder, so a deeper rudder should not have any more wetted area than the existing one.

[booster]

Gary B!
Thanks for the Wave-rider analysis. So they stepped a new mast. Yes, those holes are irritating, especially on the long offshore race. How to come out of those in decent shape... By the way I have been struggeling with those "merde" ******** as well.
Regards,
Booster

[Charly Setter]

Is this the Wave-rider you are talking about ? http://tinyurl.com/ygveh2n

Second place IRC 1/2ton Championship 2009 in Belgium.

[Paul B]

Originally Posted by Paul B

If you are able to make a thinner post and rudder you can shorten the chord length along the entire rudder, so a deeper rudder should not have any more wetted area than the existing one.

This is a crude outline (MS Paint over the existing Farr drawing) of what I was trying to say.

[Paul B]

Originally Posted by Charly Setter

Is this the Wave-rider you are talking about ? http://tinyurl.com/ygveh2n

Second place IRC 1/2ton Championship 2009 in Belgium.

Yes, that is the boat.

Note in the photo the boom is sheeted pretty much on CL, going upwind nicely.

Note the angle of the tiller. Hmmm, looks like pretty neutral helm. No sign of "buckets" of weather helm on this IOR boat.

Doesn't look like they need to "feather" the main.

Doesn't look like they've had to reef in this light air to balance the boat.

[waikikin]

Nice picture, looks like a nice day out in light conditions. All the best from Jeff.

[Perm Stress]

"No sign of "buckets" of weather helm on this IOR boat"

There is just barely any wind.... what weather helm in conditions this light ?!

As to the "loads" weather helm...

Good example is old Carter 30 halftoner, if not superchampion in class, but produced in great numbers in Poland some decades ago. For many dacades it was the only real alternative for ex Olympic sailors of Soviet part of the world. They were raced no less aggressively, as dingy classes their crews were originating from. Masthead rig with large genoas. Full depth skeg forward of her rudder. Stern lines somewhat similar to sailbag stuffed full, and open end then pulled tight with rope. Her tiller is ~80x80mm in cross section for good reason: two hands are not always sufficient to helm her in stronger conditions, no regards to the heading relative to wind! And yes, at least when cruising, they often reef the main deliberately and early. (all these developments made before introduction of full battens, really stiff sailcloth, etc.. I do not talk here about top budget world lewel racing; on our side of Iron Wall many technical advances in sailing were not physically present for long time, except only for state-supported-top-level-Olympic sailors.) At one occasion I even noticed a cruising oriented boat of this type with brand new suit of sails, with main 1-1.5m short on the mast, when fully set.
That is one part: there WERE IOR boats with excessive helm.

Then one more half penny:

In Lithuania there is an RS280 racing monotype -~28ft long keelboat -a Toy used by ex-Olympic sailors to prove once again they arte still string and fast under sail. Why I mention it is because all of them have pretty normal weather helm upwind, except one -which have sails from different supplier this one, with appearently same mast rake and sail trim has definite lee helm...

That is part two: sails could make HUGE difference.

[Brent Swain]

Much of the weather helm common in so many racing boats comes from grossly unblanced hull shapes which tend to go down in the bow , and rise in the stern when well heeled, due to excessively wide sterns and excessively lean bows. A bustle tends to help by moving the centre of gravity further aft. Twin rudders well angled outward may give you more control.

[ancient kayaker]

One would expect excess sail carried too high to press the bow down, too. Not a racer or sailor myself (yet - but I'm working on the sailor part) but when I watch videos of ocean racers they seem to spend an awful lot of time with water hosing over the cockpit from forward. I suppose that is all part of the life of a racing sailor, but it would use up energy to do that.

[barrynelson]

Hello

I sail a 1980 model 3/4 tonner (albin stratus/Norlin36). Phenominal boat all things considered. Over the past 10 years, through many subtle changes she has gone from beast to well-mannered greyhound. Sail design, rudder design & weight distribution worked the magic. After spending the previous 25 years racing E-scows & Star Boats I had experienced the power of tuning.

The first improvement was to remove everything from the bow. I tore out the water tank, got rid of the chain & big anchor, moved the batteries back etc. This made a huge differency in the tendancy to wipe out.

The second, was a new rudder. The old shaft was slightly bent & bound-up in the bearings. The replacement, is a fully devleloped, carefully designed lifting surface with gimballed bearings. The new rudder provides two finger steering in ALL conditions with no back-lash & nice feed back. I rarely move the wheel more than an inch when things are in the groove. Very subtle & precise.

The final big improvement was the new mainsail built by Chris Nielson Of Nielson sailmakers. Very flat, draft forward & dead flat in the leech area. Two top battens, just like the Star. One super stiff & streched tight for heavy air & a soft tapered one for light-medium. The previous main was soft, with draft way back & deep camber ... blown out, just like a worn out Star main.

The difference between two identical Stars: one, with old, soft, blown out main & the other, a new firm, well shaped one is the difference between two completely different boats. One cranky, the other .. close to perfection. I am not aware of any boat which demonstrates the relationships of steering, sail shape & tune-ability like the Star. For those who haven't experienced the magic of Star boats, I sugest you try it. A friend of mine who is a world class Lightning sailor, spent a couple of years playing with an old Star just to learn about sail shaping.

Hope this wasn't too long winded

Barry