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  #16  
Old 08-31-2007, 07:15 AM
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alan white alan white is offline
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Yes it would be over-doing, if you have access to glassing the inside. It is not necessary to nail at all. If it happens that some nailing assists alignment, fine, but you will not gain anything srtucturally that glass/epoxy inside and out won't.

A.
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  #17  
Old 08-31-2007, 07:47 AM
superslooper superslooper is offline
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Thanks Alan and everybody for their help

I have a much clearer view of how to go forward with this project now I will carry on and keep updating as I go.
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  #18  
Old 10-21-2007, 04:42 AM
superslooper superslooper is offline
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Hi all I dont know if this will show or anyone will see this as Im attatching to an old posting so here goes. I have aquires a few nice pieces of sapele wood which are a good size for repairing the keelson. what I need to know is there anyone who could say whether this would be a good material choice? I guess by look feel weight and a nice straight grain I would say yes but what are its water resistant qualities and suitability for boat building like??????
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  #19  
Old 10-21-2007, 06:31 AM
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Pericles Pericles is offline
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Superslooper,

If you are replacing the keelson by laminating strips of sapele with epoxy and then encapsulating the repair in glass and epoxy, then the water is excluded.

Contact Hamish Cook at Wessex Resins http://www.wessex-resins.com/ and discuss it with him.

Pericles
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2007, 01:58 PM
superslooper superslooper is offline
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Cheers again pericles I will be doing exactly as you suggested Though I was just wondering its properties as a boat building material before I started, As they say there are many types of oak but ony a few suitable for boat construction, I just didnt know much about sapele and the keelson is quite a major component. So i guess it will do
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  #21  
Old 10-22-2007, 03:50 PM
Man Overboard Man Overboard is offline
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....................................................Sapele.........White Oak (Bur)

Properties @ 12% Moisture Content

Static bending:
Modulus of Rupture...........................15,300 psi...…......10,300
Modulus of Elasticity............................1.82 (Million)……...1.03
Work to Maximum Load......................15.7 in-lb/cubic in.….9.8

Compression Parallel to Grain............. 8160 psi……………………6060
Compression Perpendicular to Grain........n/a....……………………1200
Sheer Parallel to Grain...................... 2280 psi ………………...1820
Weight..............................................47 pcf ……………………...40

Sapele is somewhat difficult to plane, glues well. I have no info on decay resistance, but
being that it glues well, I would say it is closer to Red Oak in its decay resistant qualities; maybe a little better do to its tighter grain structure.
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2007, 04:34 PM
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Pericles Pericles is offline
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Superslooper,

As for suitability for traditional boat building, the timbers selected must resist decay, whilst immersed in water. Modern methods on the other hand, allow one to do away with timber as a core: I mean the fully glass and epoxy encapsulated foam or balsa core vessel. I do not mean balsa or foam cored polyester boats, because polyester is too porous even with a gelcoat. That is why epoxy is used to treat hull osmosis.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/blisters.htm

On that basis, it is possible to use Weetabix or http://www.foamglas.co.uk/pdfs/SEL14213.pdf and glass and epoxy to build a boat, if you were desperate.

So, if you keep the water away from the boat's structure, she''ll be apples.

Regards,

Pericles
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  #23  
Old 10-23-2007, 02:42 AM
superslooper superslooper is offline
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Cheers all I see what you mean pericles and thanks for the tech data man overboard I will use this wood with confidence now and thanks god I dont need to bend it as the keelson at the stern end is straight, these pieces I have aquired are iron like and should last the term.
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