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#31
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| And more personal experience. http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-off-hull.html |
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#32
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| Get this book from Glen L designs. |
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#33
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| Masonite mold can warp if humidity gets it. |
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#34
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| Response to Steve W I was thinking of using longitudinal and transversal rings, they are very easy to form with no structural filling. There is the "elements of strenght ofr boatbuilders" which specifies rather explicitly the sizes and thicknesses required for single skin construction. As to the cored construction, I obviously understand the advantages, but the I will not be able to find suitable materials for core, maybe balsa wood. I also understand that round shapes are much better for fiberglass, but I am thinking how to do a female mould directly using slick thin panels of some MDF covered with plastic. Response to BATAAN Yes, I got the point that the female mould stringers would to have spaced very closely, maybe every 12 inches or so. Last edited by Michail : 08-31-2011 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Response to STeve W |
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#35
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| BATAAN, that C-flex is an easy method for one off single skin, i built a 24ft Fred Bingham design hull 25yrs ago for a customer to finish off himself (which he did, and very nicely too i might add) It had plenty of displacement for single skin and lots of shape as it was like a big Flikka. Steve. |
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#36
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| The reason I wanted to use straight panels for fiberglass is because I would be able to obtain a seamless female mould. I am not sure whether obtaining a good fit for rounded shape would be as easy (in case that would be difficult, I would be building over male plug). As I said in earlier posts, I am thinking about modify stitch and glue outlines to adapt them to single skin fiberglass and hopefully to use female mould. |
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#37
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| You might also look at Whissock ring frame system of strip planking or cold molding. There is no need for a male or female mold. The # 77, 15' 6" yawl might fit your needs if you add some closed cell foam in the right area,s. Rick |
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