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#16
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| As others have stated, the bow looks a little fat. Also, I think that a wheel would be the way to go for a couple reasons. 1. Less space is being taken up 2. Boarding the boat from the rear would be easier because of the lack of clutter in the stern 3. Many cruisers prefer a wheel because of it's ability to easily hook up and autopilot to it P.S.-What design program did you use for the boat? Tim |
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#17
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| If you convert from tiller to wheel on this boat you will have to take the step/foot well out of the cockpit sole as the boom would be to close to the head of the helmsman’s standing at the wheel as it is. This would also enable a longer bench seat, which you could also lay out on. The companionway hatch is a little small for a cruising boat. There is only 1.24 metres (4ft) between the edge of the first step and the inside edge of the open hatch. For the rig have you considered swept spreaders (no back stay) and self-tacking jib? Makes for easy sailing. |
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#18
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Quote:
Same concern about the tiler against wheel, tiler can be a wooden piece & some hardware, wheel must be imported or "invented" As an example, there is only one operative CNC mill in the country, you must ask for it with 3 months pre advice. another, there are just 2 naval suppliers in the country, mostly specialized in Optimist/Laser & some J24 spare parts, don't ask any weird part cause they'll laugh at your face... Making a boat here feels alike Robinson Crusoe in his lonely island.... |
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#19
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| Solrac your road to building this boat will in deed be hard which bring me to the question of what material you plan to build with as the displacement looks like about 3000 kg. |
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#20
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I was thinking on a plywood structure (CNC cutted) reinforced with fiberglass (a kind of a sandwich) & a similar laminated multilayered hull (plywood/fiberglass) I think I can achieve enough strenght & low weight. |
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#21
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| Will you contact a designer or nav arch for help on the final hull shape and then do the interior yourself? |
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#22
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#23
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| Solrac at that displacement it seems ok. I would go a little higher (nobody complains if the boat comes out lighter). As for supplies, sometimes it pays not to think boat! |
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#24
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| as stated, by calculations done (I'm not a specialist in this matter, but..) Displacement about 3.5m3 LOA 10.00m LWL 8.50 BEAM 3.30 keel about 1300kg (depending on final weight of hull) but draft no more than 1.70m (no more water at port here), even thinking about a semi mobile keel, discarded it because it's a nightmare sailing with it in open waters Mast (estimated by now, depending on availability at the moment) 14.00/15.00m Think of an internal power about 30/40hp by the way, seen on another post about tandem keels (Tandem? Keel on Bavaria) would it make any sense or it's only marketing technique? |
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#25
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| I would keep it simple, the time and money to design and fabricate that type of keel can be better spent. |
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#26
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I suspicted from the beginning, that type of keel can't equal stab force than a traditional, as the mass distribution implies less distance must have a lot bigger weight... although, the only pro I've seen: less draft |
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#27
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| Solrac since you have autocad it maybe worth your while to 3d model the interior as it would give you a feeling for the space and speed up the construction side a bit. |
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#28
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| Sorry, been on holyday trip last week. I meant that the mesh surface is "bumpy", not the design. LWL/BWL about from 3 to 3.5 and half angle of waterline < 20 degrees is quite reasonable for a cruiser. Terho |
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#29
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| In the same boat... Slorac, I'm in the same boat...an engineer looking to build a custom sailboat with the same characteristics. If you like fat with a big fridge, look at the Bruce Robert Designs…You won’t win any races, but you won’t spill your beer either. http://www.bruceroberts.com/public/HTML/plans1.htm |
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#30
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| Guys, finished the interior design, attaching the drafts. greetings. |
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