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  #91  
Old 11-16-2003, 12:24 PM
Tohbi Tohbi is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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Location: arizona, usa
okay, that makes sense. the rudder post is a solid, round bar that doesn't extend through the deck. i'll have to build an extension in which to attach the tiller. any ideas on the extension?

also, i intend to add a mechanical, outboard motor type steering cable setup in order to helm her from inside the cabin.

a problem i'll encounter is water coming in around the rudder post. rather than try to seal the area, i'm thinking to just drill a drain hole. the frames are only 9" apart so it isn't a real big area. any thoughts?
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  #92  
Old 01-27-2004, 09:05 PM
hunter65 hunter65 is offline
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i would look at just using a rubber gasket around the post or something similar. I saw it done on a boat kinda like the one your building. it works real swell but im not sure how the guy did it.
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  #93  
Old 02-15-2004, 12:31 PM
Tohbi Tohbi is offline
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an update on progress so far: i've been reading books about boat design and, specifically, 12 metre designs and paying close attention to the recommendations of the list members and i've decided to follow the advice which says, basically, don't change things. this seems to be what most knowledgeable people recommend.

i've decided to build this boat as a 1/3 size 12 metre with the keel winglets and all. no change to the size of the keel, although i think some of the ballast will be internal to the hull body, itself. this gives the advantage in a small boat of being able to trim for crew and provisions and being able to jettison weight in an emergency.

i was surprised to learn that the 12 metre boats are such an old design and that they were considered to be seaworthy designs before the strictly "race" rule of the ac class. i think i will opt for the gaff style mainsail in an effort to reduce the righting force on such a narrow hull, unless enough sail area can be found in a short mast/bihmini sail. those old gaff riggers were sure purty and are traditional to the design, but it would be nice to opt for simplicity, too. a roller furling genoa-jib will be helpful.

a low cabin trunk abaft the mast from which, hopefully, the boat can be sailed will follow a sealed foredeck: no hatches, maybe a dorade. i'm thinking of building a small dinghy that will reside upside down on the foredeck since this boat will draw at least 36". the dinghy can also help provide some flotation to the bow since these boats tend to be very wet and go under swells instead of over them. i've removed about half the bondo preparatory to glassing the hull. thoughts?
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  #94  
Old 11-05-2004, 12:37 PM
mike ballaz
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yeeah

me and mah niggaz iz foo

dog
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  #95  
Old 12-01-2004, 03:58 AM
johnt johnt is offline
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Displacement sail area ratio

Hi Thobi,
I think it probably depends if you are looking for upwind, off the wind, or downwind performance!@#$%^%&???
Cheers
JT
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  #96  
Old 12-01-2004, 03:25 PM
Hasse Malmsten
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Why dont you take a close look at the 2,4mR class. It is a meter boat built to the same rule as the big 12īs, 12/5=2,4. It is very nice and well performing yacht with almost the same lines as her bigger sisters, the sixmetre, eightmetre and twelvermetre. Main difference is depth ov keel and displacement/length ratio.
A 2,4 could easily be made a lookalike to Stars & Stripes -87.
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  #97  
Old 06-02-2006, 05:23 AM
Esbe Esbe is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
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Location: Perth
Tohbi,

Please, please, please don't do this to such a unique hull. Even though you bought it for $50, this is a thing of great worth and beauty. Don`t take this the wrong way but there are a number of statements you have made which show that you really don`t have any idea about yachts- such as the concept of a dinghy on the foredeck adding buoyancy, your dislike of spreader rigs on yachts, and worst of all the notion of putting a gunter rig on a modern hull form, which is going to look completely anachronistic. I would strongly suggest that you spent a season sailing aboard somebody elses boat before you rush into a major project like this. Only then will you have an idea of the characteristics you should choose for your own boat.

If it's finance that you are worried about, the hull you have is probably worth quite a bit more than you paid for it, but if you make silly modifications, that will definately make it worthless. Believe me, the cost of a hull is going to be by far the least of your worries if you want to own a boat, let alone fitting out a bare hull. You would be much better off buying a second hand boat of some sort that is appropriate for you needs once you have some sailing experience.

Best wishes.
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