Once again on righting moment versus heeling moment

Thanks. Maybe I'll write them. Have seen this site before, but not this info.


Going away on vacation now. Won't be able to reply until 26th of July. If someone can answer my previous questions about the rocker, I'd be glad. But I guess a lot of you are now on holidays

Thank you for your inputs so far. It was most helpful.

Out of the topic - this August I will go to the lake where I sailed last year on a cat-rigged fishing boat. The boat was stolen some months ago (the guy who rented that boat called us), and he's buying a new boat now, which he will rent for us again. The sailing rig wasn't stolen, at least.

When we arrive at the lake, I will inspect the new boat, and if possible, rig it with remains from the old boat. Mast, boom, sails, leeboards and lines are readily available. Maybe it can be done, maybe it can't, depends on boat arrangement. As before, I can't drill or leave any kind of marks on the boat, and the sailing equipment should be rigged and removed within 15 minutes, because I won't be the only one who will use the boat.
(After my results with the old boat last summer, I hoped that I'll be able to rest from building, and just sail this summer... Well, thanks to cursed thieves, here I go again...).

I will most probably make a new topic on this forum in the beginning of the August, and tell how another "desperate to sail" project catches wind.

Until then, thank you all, and have a nice holiday!

 

Re ruder

Michalak uses Nylon webbing (a safety belt will do...that should hold some )
The ruder on the Passat als looks a little overbuilt to me. I will go with a slide down ruder like on the Goat Island Skiff and mount it inside like Michalak or just pivoting in a tube inside the hull.
Here is some info on his ruder and also on the balanced lug.
http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html

I have done a Tyvek balanced lug. There is a rope in the seam running around and 10% belly are cut in.

If you are building cheap and always in need of some lowtech working ideas get this book. I just bought it for the lines of the Mayfly but I really like the whole approach.

Just starting to read the thread....

 

A sealed mount above the waterline will work in my opinion. It would even work unsealed. Where should all that spray come from aft to get into a little hole?



Also a nice idea, but the first one seems easier to make.



True! I always wondered how they do rudders on kayaks strong enough, having only one attachment.


Dacron from the US? You could also recut used sails. Somebody was so nice to offer me a free sail but shipping from the US to Europe would have cost 120€
A sail would probably cost you twice or trice the price of your boat....
BTW, you will pay more for your boat than you initially planed
I can speak from experience...but the fun is worth it.

Use PCV. You can sew it and seal it. Just try it. There is also a lot of information available on German Faltboot pages. I remember them stitching and gluing with Uhu-Kraft or Patex contact glue.
I am sure pond building pvc is available everywhere. It is really cheap for 2€/m² or under. There is also glue for it available everywhere.

Do not use paint. It will crack when folded. 2k PU is available at the hardware store for sealing concrete floors. Nasty stuff and will also crack if folded.
I tried to rubberize a skin with roof sealant. That would work but feels like rubber on the surface...too sticky for a boat I fear.
In any case you could get a Hypalon skin made in Germany, Austria, Slovakia or the Czech Republik.

If you ever build a non folding skin boat use Polyester fabric for furniture. Even the light fabric will work but there are heavier weaves also. Every fabric store will sell you 100% PE.
Use something other than paint and fabric when you are going to fold it. I can show you a painted PE test piece that I tried to fold. I used 1k PU floor paint on that (the red one from my pram).
What I like to use for painting boats now is cheap water based Acrylic for 8€/l, 3-4 coats on the wet parts and 2 above the waterline. You can also paint cool dinosaurs on it with a marker

you could have it laser cut in scale or use a scroll saw to build a nice model-

Would really surprise me...I never managed that.

 

PE shrinks when heat is applied (gently...experience again ).
Nylon relaxes when it gets wet. You stretch it over the hull with your whole bodyweight after spraying some water on it...when dry it is drum-tight. Then seal it with the goo.
PE is easier to work with and most paints will stick to it. I used 1K on my sailing Pram...would use cheap acrylic paint again next time.

I don't recommend painted fabric for a folding skin.

 

I guess laser cutting or CNC-routing is also out of the question so here is how I have done it several times.

First you draw reference scales on your plan.
Then you print from CAD to pdf, find the biggest printer you can get (I can plot but before that I used A3 and even A4).
I read that Freeship or other hull designers have sometimes produced faulty prints...I have never experienced such with Rhino....reference scales for sure.
Print to 100% with Acrobat pro using pass marks. Stick everything together with tape and use your reference marks for precision.

We used to cut the parts out but I rather print the whole sheet now.
Use the best Jigsaw you can afford.
I also like cutting on the scrollsaw for very fine lines after roughing out with a Jigsaw...the 12mm phenol coated ply I am using is killing bandsaw blades though.

Matthias Wandel sells a program called BigPrint which is also for pattern work.
http://woodgears.ca/bigprint/