Newbie trying to ID a sailboat

[rehenry]

Hi everyone, this is my first post but I have been lurking around for a while. My question is can anyone identify this sailboat. I found it on the web, but for the life of me have never been able to find it again or identify it myself. Any ideas from anyone? Looks like a really interesting small sailboat.

Thanks
Roy

[Tad]

It's a Halman 20', built by Halman Manufacturing Company in Beamsville, Ontario. LOA is 19'8", LWL is 16'6", beam is 7'9", draft 2'10" and displacement 2500 pounds. Sail area about 200 sq ft.

[Tad]

An earlier builder...EXE Fibercraft Ltd of Exeter Ontario called it the Nordica 20, there was also a 16' and a larger version 29'11". All three were designed by Mr. B. Malta-Mueller in the strong double-ended Scandinavian style.

[rehenry]

Thanks for replying so quickly, you guys are good.
-Roy

[troy2000]

This place is a motherlode of both general and specific information. It never ceases to amaze me, and the members are very good about sharing what they know.

Sometimes I get the feeling that if I could just figure out the right questions to ask, I could learn everything there is to know about boats here. Well, everything except hands-on experience, of course.

[messabout]

Right on Troy. There are some really smart people who hang around this site. Disclaimer: I certainly do not consider myself to be equal to the bright ones. We have intellect from all over the world. The Aussies and the Kiwis are very much into this stuff, although there are one or two of 'em that are nut cases. (stonedpirate hello) We get good and qualified info from people from Italy, Sweden, S. Africa, Japan and many, many elsewheres, of course Canada and the US too.. Sweet!

We have screen names like Willoughby, Guellermo, Speer, etc, who are authorities in their specialties. Too many most worthy contributors to name. We have subscribers who have seamanship experience of the most respected kind. Some of the Alaskans can tell us some wild sea stories, people like Stumble can fill us in on some serious realities. Dammit we have lost one of our good ones. Par if you are out there, we miss you. We have some comedians too. They provide a bit of levity.

To all, I thank you sincerely for your selfless contributions. And to all of the newbies....pay attention, most of these guys are good.

[WestVanHan]

Not to split hairs or argue (don't care enough) but I'm sure it's a Nordica.

A friend had a Nordica ~15 years ago,the Halman he was going to buy had smaller side windows which he didn't like.

[Stumble]

WOW, Nice to be included with some of those guys!

I figure for every thing I post here I learn 10. I consider this a great source of information on a lot of areas I have never experienced. Which is why I keep coming back.

[rehenry]

I didn't think I would get such detailed replies. I also didn't think that I would meet such friendly people. You guys rock! BTW, I'm still interested in the Nordica 20. What a cool looking boat.

Thanks
-Roy

[Scunthorp]

I own one so if there is anymore interest drop me a line.

[PAR]

I which I'd seen this thread when it came up, as some designs just stick out like sore thumbs, like this one. It's a Nordica 20 and as has been previously noted the Halman, which was built after the Nordica, had smaller ports and a cut back fore foot. It's keel was changed fairly significantly, for reduced draft (presumably). There were other notable differences between the two versions of this design.

[Scunthorp]

In order to make her increasingly Blue water oriented I up graded the through
hulls to 1 ½" In order to make her increasingly Blue water oriented I up graded the through
hulls to 1 ½" (Think of a Bath tub and how slow it is to drain) There were four
serious points to note 1 was I used two hole cutters one the size of the
original hole and the other the size of the required hole this allowed for
little to no error or slipping. The hull is about just a tad under ¼" thick in
this location. I fabricated the washers with hole saws (1 ½ and 4" by ¼" thick)
you could use the polymer Delrin which is very stiff as it contains 30%
fibreglass (the good plastic through hulls are made of this and also the sheaves
in mort modern pulleys.) to bed the through hulls in I used Secoflex 229 I had
3m 5200 which is normally what I would use but I can and do get a great Navy
deal on the Secoflex and it is bomb proof.. I cut off the ribbed pipe portion
of the through hull as this seriously reduces the diameter of the system and
therefore its effectiveness. When cutting the cockpit holes I used the through
hull to get my 2'' circle and then used a die grinder on the cockpit sole (I was
worried about how much meat was there but it turns out to be plenty.) I didn't
cross the hoses as I have found this to be ineffective I used the white san hose
(I bought the black but it was a pure nightmare trying to get it on the white
hose you can heat a little and lube with Vaseline and it flies on) I used
industrial strength 316 SS hose Clamps which are wider and stronger than most
people use, I have soft wooden plugs tied to the Valves just in case. Points to
note she drains when underway I was a little surprised when I through down my
first bucket of water as it went nowhere but after my fist sail I have had no
problems (expectations and reality) I am now focused on the main hatch which on
my boat is a peace of plywood I am going to make it ridiculously strong why
not?? If you have any further questions or need clarification don't hesitate
to ask Sincerely John

[Scunthorp]

Sailed mine to Shelburne and back this year from Halifax good times. They are a small sailboat but you can trust them in a blow. I hit a bad gale on the way home and had to run for it. The boat was bombproof.