Need rudder info

[jbowers417]

Alan, you asked for pictures. Hope I can pull this off again. I just went out and took 13 more area specific photos. Hope this will help.

[jbowers417]

Didn't work first time. Hope they came through this time. Pictures of rudder and aft of wooden carvel hulled lobster boat you requested. Hope this workes
for you. A computer geek I'm not!!

[PAR]

It wouldn't surprise me if the tank was sitting on a shelf, just above the quadrant and rudder shaft. Sometimes the tank is supported in a couple of clam shell shaped brackets, attached to framing. Access is gained by removing the aft settee and possibly some of the framing for the same. The removed panel in the sole, looks like it may be a too far forward to provide access to the rudder shaft and steering gear. With the settee seat and back removed (looks like you may have done so before) you should be able to remove a few sole planks, if they don't have an access section that lifts out.

To remove the rudder, you'll need to turn the helm full port or starboard, remove the screws holding the lower fitting to the skeg, which will permit the rudder to fall clear without hitting it, then remove the stop and gland nuts (maybe a pinch clamp too). To repack the rudder port, you have to have reasonable access to the top of the port, often times this means removing the quadrant and steering gear (arms, cables, rams, stops, etc.).

What we really need to see is what is down inside that hole in the sole under the settee. That node should be replaced too.

[jbowers417]

Actually, I have never removed the aft settee. Someone else has because half the bronze screws are missing. Those that are there are deeply imbedded. wouldn't surprise me if I didn't have to remove the entire settee in order to get this done. Figured I'd have to do that anyway to replace all the decking with ironwood. It's the same type as used on the Atlantic seaboard.
As you may be able to see, there is a plate that supports the bottom of the rudder, and is attached to the skeg with two or three screws. It'll be interesting to see what happens when I take that out. When I take the settee out, I plan to use the pieces for a pattern building me a new one and new screws. With everything that I have planned, this may well take two seasons to get this all done right. When your doing it alone on a ss check, it takes longer.
So you believe I should replace that sacrificial anode eh? Alrighty then. I hope they still make them that exact size sixty one years later.

[PAR]

The rudder/skeg fitting will likely be reusable, once the several layers of paint have been cleaned away, unless it's seen substantial corrosion and reduced in strength. Once you remove that fitting, there are a few parts that will prevent the rudder shaft from just dropping the rudder to the ground. The grit and corrosion alone is usually more then enough, to make you cuss it out of the rudder port after everything is removed. The nodes have been replace many times over the years (usually every haul out) and yep, they make that one still. CMP Global part number CMM-25 looks to be the correct one and is about 5" long (maybe a little shorter), about 2" high and about 3/4" thick. It's a common node.

[jbowers417]

That's real good to know PAR. I'll measure that node later on today then see about ordering one. I really, really appreciate the wealth of information both you and Alan White have sent me. Both of you have been just great and can't ever thank you two enough for helping out this "old foogie". CMP Global eh?

[alan white]

Let's have a picture of the whole boat, jbowers. I imagine diamond windows, maybe because there is a beautifully restored lobster boat turned utility boat (with a small mast/derrick) in Bucks Harbor, Maine, owned by the guy who runs Bucks Harbor Marine, which has diamond windows.
His boat is kind of pampered--- the derrick rig must be for light mushroom moorings. It appears to have accomodations forward for island-hopping.
the age must be similar, and I wish I had photos, since it's probably the finest and prettiest restoration I've ever seen.

A.

[jbowers417]

Sorry I can't get entire boat into a single photo frame. It's in my barn. No fancy restoration here. Five port hole windows with blueish tinted plexiglass,and some of them don't fit very well. However, I will be more than happy to go out and take pictures of the interior, as rustic as it is. There are some dry rot areas that have been "beefed up". Be back in a few.

[jbowers417]

Ok, best I can do right now. There are a couple pictures of the steering system, top and bottom. There's pictures of rats nest of wiring next to steering system. ( not my doing ) The circuit breaker panel and buse bar is what I put in. That's why I now have a red dome light. Like I said, all very old, very rustic, lots of work needs done. All I need is time and money. And money is a luxery.

[jbowers417]

PAR

You hit the nail on the head in regard to that "node". It is axactly 5" long. 2" high, and 3/4" thick with two allen screws approx. 1 3/8" apart. YOUR GOOD!

[jbowers417]

PAR

CMP Global doesn't seem to be up and running just yet. Plus seem to be having a problem with my acrobat reader. West Marine nor anyone else I've located thus far, seem to have a "zinc" or node the same shape as the one on my rudder.

[jbowers417]

PAR or Alan,

What diameter size of packing need it get? 1/8, 3/16, .25, 3/8, 7/16 what? And approx. how many coils do I need to wrap around the rudder post, once I figure out a way of getting there. ha

[PAR]

Order West Marine part number 593543 > http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch <, which is about 15 bucks. Make sure the metal is clean and bare under the node when installing it and of course, don't paint it.

Packing will depend on the rudder port and shaft used on your boat. Generally, three full turns around the shaft is fine.

[alan white]

Originally Posted by jbowers417

PAR or Alan,

What diameter size of packing need it get? 1/8, 3/16, .25, 3/8, 7/16 what? And approx. how many coils do I need to wrap around the rudder post, once I figure out a way of getting there. ha

Order a couple of sizes--- it's cheap enough, and thinner just means more turns. It all squashes into a specific shape as if filled with play doh. Maybe 3/16" and 1/4" would be good choices. Your prop shaft seal, a similar gland, will use some too one day, unless you have some modern gizmo seal installed, which is doubtful. That seal is surely available to see behind the engine. Not much difference between the two seals in design.
Nice looking boat. Compare pricing with Hamilton Marine (online catalog) for packing, zincs, and other things, even call them for advice (they know what sells the most). They supply Maine lobster fishermen more than any other supplier, and as a consequence, they have a lot of old-timey stuff in their catalog.

[jbowers417]

Hamilton Marine is where I got my dome light. It's in "my favorites" for quick reference. I've already checked them out on the packing which is why I was inquiring as to diameter size. Your also right, it's cheap enough. I love cheap. ha I've decided on color scheme for the boat. Light gray hull with darker gray trim. I've got to do something with those side windows also.