K800

By careful with globs of glue.
It is all too easy to overweight so small models with "small" things like glue, paint, extra layer of something, put on "just in case".

 

I think maybe you are correct. Now that I look at it, the waterproof tape I wanted to use is rather heavy. I think my model is 10 grams heavier with only 1/4 of the hull done up with it.

The nylon was not going to weigh that much!!

At least I can weigh it and it it is too heavy I can pull it all back off and start over. Not that I really LIKE doing that, but at least it saves the model. I need a way to uniformly shrink one heavy layer of nylon fabric without burning holes in my fingers or the fabric. :?:

 

It looks like I officially have to take a break. I have spent $12.00 on glue and other things for this model. That leaves me with barely enough money to buy cigarettes. luckily I have cut down tremendously and maybe this will be the month I have to stop smoking completely. I guess having a pond yacht is more important to me than smoking and turning my lungs into a cesspool.

 

I want to talk about the real boat a bit.

If I actually set up all the frames in a jig, have all the frames and ply cut and shaped by my Uncle who has the tools and makes beds and stuff with no nails, just glue, and is pretty good at making things from scrap I might be able to make the frame and then cover it with fabric like early aircraft were made.

How much would it cost to have the rigging made? Of course, I would do everything by the plans and not change anything, but maybe leave out some windows because framing them in a fabric based hull would add weight.

Oh, and I would have to live aboard and I would want to scale it up for that purpose, or possibly ask Alik for more head room. I want head room of at least 5'11" (180.3cm) How hard would it be to make the deck like the following:



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EDIT:: If I can't do something like that, then I can't use this design. I want to make the thing as cheaply as possible, and marine ply costs WAY too much! Could I possibly just use marine ply for the bottom under the water line, Then hardened fabric for topsides?

 

I just looked at all the weight for batteries, radios, everything I would need for a 4 channel sailing vessel and I might have to get rid of the outboard and one of the channels. So much for being light!

I think I'll actually go walk down and get my propane tank filled and skip getting something to smoke and get some gorilla glue instead.

EDIT:: My latest idea includes plastic straws that will be ironed into shape. =0)



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WOOHOO!!! I just traded some carbon rods for some plastic stuff that is made to shrink to a frame. I will have to reinforce the frame temporarily, but I think it will be worth it. =0)

 

Well, shucks!! It certainly looks pretty, but won't hold water worth beans so, it's back to the drawing board so to speak.



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This is totally awesome hull compared to the 1920's schooner I built. it seemed to want to turn right ever so slightly, so I stuck a 10 oz weight I found on the road in her and added 6 quarters. to spread the weight out a little. If the prow touches the water, the transom doesn't dip more than a mm. Cool huh!?! I bet this thing will slip sideways with a vengeance.

10 oz and 6 quarters is 241.6 grams. It sits lower in the water, but I think that's because the dimensions are wrong all over, that, and she takes on water.

HEY! I know why! I forgot to put in a temporary batten that was needed to keep the tops of the shortened frames apart and make her sit at the correct beam of a decimeter.

 

I just noticed that the number on my weight is not 10, but 1.0 instead. There is another number that says 28. I think this is only 1 ounce and 28 grams.

That means my boat is way over weight. probably way too much glue.

WAIT! saltwater weighs more DUH! a lot more. Time for some SERIOUS recalculations.:!:

 

A model so small is extremely unlikely to turn out at scale weight.
So, my advice would be go for it, and do not worry about overweight -there is not much that could be done about it...

 

Even at 1:5 scale, my project will be touch and go to see if it is light enough. eg.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/projects-proposals/fast-build-scale-model-40905-2.html

Great idea about paper for the skin. People have built successfull kayaks out of papier-mache, so it should work a treat. Something waterproof between the layers might be a good idea

 

The plywood on top is an important part of the structure.

You could use laminated newspaper for the whole boat if you use the right glue. It would be as good as marine ply.

 

Actually, now that everything has set solidly it is super strong. I have an issue with some of the top stringer things bending under the stress of the shrink wrap plastic. I can shim some wood in a few places to make it straight again, but the big thing is that I can remove some of the bulk by removing some of the frame material. =0)

fresh water vs salt water = I only need 280 kg vs 300 kg full scale. That means that 1.2 kg is way too much for a bulb keel. I also added when I needed to subtract when figuring volume, and the original number of 300 kg was actually supposed to be 140 x 2 and not 150 x2. LOL! So, since I only needed 280 kg to begin with Everything in my calculations was actually over weight.

Which leaves me at 12 grams over weight not 32. Anyways, my revised total weight for the bulb keel with all calculations accounted for, so far anyway, will be about 600 grams for max hull wetting. I want it to ride a little bit heavy for a tiny bit extra stability and since everything will be closed up and it will have a nice long bulb keel it shouldn't matter too much, but it will probably kill a little performance, which is where the swing rig comes in to play.

HEY! I just noticed that I did not remove all the metal from the transom. That's about 12 grams right there!! Maybe I should peel it all off and see where I'm at.

EDIT:: I think I messed up something else... maybe that is actually 120 not 12. GRRR! Time to work it all out again.

 

Huh, I just filled a glass baking pan with water and floated it. Something must have set differently, or completely cooled down because it no longer takes on water. I took as much of the metal off the transom as i could and weighed it. 22 grams. WOW! this stuff is heavy! maybe I will use it for the keel.

I put the 1.0 ounce weight in the boat and moved it around so she sat level. Then I noticed that she sits a lot higher in the water.

I have decided that things are very difficult to weigh properly at this scale. The hull is so heavy that once I add the deck, which might weigh as much as half the hull, I will need less than 24 grams of ballast. that means that I can probably use the waterproof metal tape for a centerboard box, and almost all the lead I have for the keel itself and it should be longer front to back, but it should be fine I think. So, I can make a centerboard, but it will be a little longer and wider than stock.

Should the foil be different?

 

Wait, What? Someone said paper was not a good idea.

Oh well, paper is heavy, and the material I have on the hull is now water proof... well, I'm checking it anyways, It's sitting in the sink with 14 times the needed ballast.

EDIT:: just went and checked it. It needs a spot of sealant. I'll know in 1 to 2 hours if it worked. At least it took a while this time.