K800

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by Schoonner, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    Throwing the baby out with the bath water!

    I just remembered you have to freeze the poly seam seal before it does what I wanted it to. I just spent a long time trying to peel the second layer off, knowing that the first layer has soaked into the wood and I can't do anything about it. :mad::mad::mad:

    So, I already messed up the precious hobby wood, my electric bill will be too high for me to spend any more money than I already have on this project, and I am going to just finish the frame, coat with nylon and crazyglue, and then do the same with the deck when I get it done. Maybe this summer when I won't have a huge heat bill to contend with I can start over with spruce or maybe even <GASP> OAK! Wouldn't that be nice!?!
     
  2. Schoonner
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    Location: Washington State USA

    Schoonner Senior Member

  3. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    I can't believe I am doing the transom already!

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    EDIT:: that was actually at 9:02 am
     
  4. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    When I get back from doing laundry, I will put the transom on. =0) The back of the boat is getting a different treatment than the plans because I don't have enough wood. For now, I am using scraps to thicken the bottom rather than making frame 'N'


    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Oh, btw, I found a tiny light I will be using somewhere on her. Maybe to light up the fiber optics? Oh yeah, there will be fiber optic lighting if I can afford it =0)

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
     
  5. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    Last edited: Jan 4, 2012
  6. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    Finally finished the transom. I test fit pieces before trying to dry fit them on the hull because I have accidentally broken some of the sticks trying to test fit pieces in place.

    [​IMG]

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  7. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    I realized that the top strake should be flat, and that it was really curvy. I soaked the whole thing in water for about am hour, and then turned it upside down and stacked canned food on it. Now it looks WAY better!! The bottom has a nice curve to it now too =0) I keep doing things by mistake that make the boat way better than I ever really thought I could make it, while on the other hand, I have a couple of chines strakes, not the chines, but the second ones down from the top that are almost a full mm off and have a little too much curve there.

    In real life, how much engine could I put on the hull before there are issues with structural fatigue?

    Now that I have made many mistakes, miscalculations, and overall just messed around, I think that my hull is actually only 70% accurate. Since I decided that, and accidentally hit the + button when I meant to hit - when I was determining the length between the frames, The hull is short by 4mm. That would be 960mm short of my intended length in full scale. The M frame was in stalled too far back so now the rear stern of the boat is way off. I now have a slight "boat tailed' stern. That's actually kinda cool considering that the hull looks like a bullet from a 30.06 rifle. =0) I will have to change the deck around and have a flat area over the cockpit because I no longer have enough wood to frame in the walking area and seats as well as the decking.

    It will be a challenge to finish her, but I think I like it anyways. by accident it is shaped a little more like a volvo 70.5... I think... Anyways, it should be pretty good pond yacht.

    What materials are best for a bulb keel weighing 1.2kg/2lb? That would make it roughly 300kg or 661lb in full scale and I think that is a good weight to shoot for. Also, since a swing rig makes for lots of side slip, I want to add daggerboards near the sides that can be raised/ lowered when tacking. Would I just want to try lining them up with the center of the keel? Also, airliners have tiny little canards on the fuselage that can be only about a half a meter square. I thought about making a couple of them here and there just aft of the keel to see if they help with side slipping.
     
  8. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

  9. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    BTW, I wanted to tell you some of my tricks to make things fast. I simply wrap the frame pieces very carefully with rough thread to clamp large sections of the hull together at once after adding a glob of glue. I have determined that a glob of glue is better than just a dab. :p If I buy more fast acting super glue, I will not have to clamp the joints and can just hand clamp them with a little thumb force. The stuff I have right now is 'Ultra Gel Control' by Loctite. It dries slowly, and if it gets disturbed, it stretches out like cheese and refuses to bond to itself again so the part has to have another volatile chemical treatment to remove the glue before anything will ever stick to it. :confused:

    I like polyester thread because it is strong, and sticks to wood without glue or anything, just the friction of the fibers against the rough wood surface. I use a thin thread that I can just cause to bite itself against the hull and start wrapping tightly. Yeah, I use a lot of wraps, but I can very finely tune the clamping action. I don't really show anybody my clamping wraps because they have secrets in them that only God and I know about. :D:!:

    LOL!!

    A little background story... I'm disabled with Ausperger's syndrome. I had 11 jobs in 2006 and my Aunt put me on SSI in 2007. God has come into my life since then, and things are getting better at a faster rate. I was homeless for a lot of my life because I really stink at social interaction and lost jobs quickly because of that and a lack of memory. (Which is getting better.) I can remember more things about my hull I'm making than I ever could before.

    Anyways, I was raised by my grandmother who only allowed me to do certain things, but encouraged model making, reading encyclopedias, mixing stuff together under supervision, and I got RC vehicles and model rockets all the time to play with. I used to mow the lawn and stuff when I was 7, and had my own axe before that. By then I could use a full sized 8lb maul to split oak and pine cottonwood... etc you name it. My family sold firewood to make ends meet.

    So, now you know a little more about me. Oh, and my name is Gabriel. :D

    Now, on to building again. :rolleyes:


    This is my plan. I want to warm up my toaster oven slightly less than it takes to visibly shrink the material. Then cover the frame with nylon glued to it and stick it in the oven till it gets to the predetermined temp, at which point the holes in the material become slightly smaller, and the oven should turn itself off and then let it cool slowly. Then I will add another layer with the threads at a 30 degree angle from the first ply. I will then plank the very bottom of the hull and thusly add a 'real' chine about 300mm/1ft ( full scale) to either side of the center plane to help me with side slip. It will literally be stitched to the hull and does not need to 'hold water' since the condensed nylon will do that. :D

    As you will see in the picture I'm uploading, I tested some nylon material glued together with fiberglass resin and then some with superglue. I think maybe the fiberglass resin froze. It comes out brown with tiny black specs suspended in it. Anyways, it never hardened. So, the black stuff in the pic is nylon material.

    Down to the nitty gritty:

    I broke one of the chines on the port side of the boat. That forced me to leave enough pieces sticking off the transom in order to have something to tie the thread to while the piece dries. I will have to 'thread clamp' the entire piece that is being repaired from the transom well past the break so that when it is clamped, it is held in the perfect shape of the hull. Every wrap past the first wrap adds tension, but I don't know the ratio, I just eyeball it since it is only a 30mm vessel. =0)

    EDIT:: Anybody like Jules Verne?
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2012
  10. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    FAIL!

    The oven I wanted to use does not heat evenly enough even though it blows air around in side.

    The first layer of nylon has tiny holes in it. Of course I could have predicted another problem... the material gets hotter when it is not lying flat against a cookie sheet and is supported by the frame.
     
  11. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    I think I know now what I'm going to do =0) Even though I have holes throughout the first layer, I have a very nice platform with which to apply another layer!! This HAS to be the lightest/strongest thing I've ever made!! Nylon over wood stretched tight with a lighter. Yeah, it has holes, but it is strong and tight. Perfect, in my opinion for a first layer that is going to be covered in more layers.

    Does anyone know where I can get superglue by the gallon?

    There is a lot of nylon there because I plan on using the rest of the nylon to cover the inside of the hull too. The first layers will follow the structure exactly, then the last one will have a frame it will go around. This is called reserve buoyancy... LOL!
     
  12. Schoonner
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    Location: Washington State USA

    Schoonner Senior Member

    Oh yeah, the picture...
    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Oh, and if I have to add layers between layers between the layers to take up space and stretch the material more, that can happen too. =0)
     
  13. Schoonner
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    Schoonner Senior Member

    The chine I added to help with side slip::

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    HEY! I just noticed that where the material is shrunk down a little I can add glue inside and push a board against the chine and make it better.
     
  14. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Location: Washington State USA

    Schoonner Senior Member

    I found some left over water proof tape that supposedly can be applied while submerged under water. I use it on my aluminum windows to stop dratfs. I decided that with the nylon beneath the aluminum tape I might only need one layer of nylon.

    I think it looks good enough :cool:

    [​IMG]

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  15. Schoonner
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Location: Washington State USA

    Schoonner Senior Member

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