InsTanton hard chine

[ancient kayaker]

These hull shapes look like they're computer generated, plug in some numbers and off you go. I use the same method for my much smaller boats, it gives very clean lines and so far the hulls in solo canoe sizes have been very fast in the water. The shapes start off in a spreadsheet and the stations can be input by FreeShip to get a preview, check development shapes and verify hydrostatic and drag values.

They are very quick and easy to build in small sizes at least. I have been using a frameless one- or two-mold mold construction technique which I am refining boat by boat. I build the sheer planks flat complete with glued inwales, chine logs and stem cheeks, route the edges to the correct angles then bend them over the mold(s) ready for the bottom plank(s). Joints are perfect every time, no cutting or planing to fit. I wonder if it would translate into an effective method for this big a hull; if it could be done it would save a lot of time. Even if planks are applied over a frame the constant flare and deadrise angles would allow the stringers to be pre-machined before assembly, saving a lot of manual work fairing the frame prior to planking. Or is it too soon to talk about that stuff?

[Tanton]

Originally Posted by ancient kayaker

These hull shapes look like they're computer generated, plug in some numbers and off you go. I use the same method for my much smaller boats, it gives very clean lines and so far the hulls in solo canoe sizes have been very fast in the water. The shapes start off in a spreadsheet and the stations can be input by FreeShip to get a preview, check development shapes and verify hydrostatic and drag values.

They are very quick and easy to build in small sizes at least. I have been using a frameless one- or two-mold mold construction technique which I am refining boat by boat. I build the sheer planks flat complete with glued inwales, chine logs and stem cheeks, route the edges to the correct angles then bend them over the mold(s) ready for the bottom plank(s). Joints are perfect every time, no cutting or planing to fit. I wonder if it would translate into an effective method for this big a hull; if it could be done it would save a lot of time. Even if planks are applied over a frame the constant flare and deadrise angles would allow the stringers to be pre-machined before assembly, saving a lot of manual work fairing the frame prior to planking. Or is it too soon to talk about that stuff?

You are correct in your assumptions. I have not applied the geometric principles behind the InsTanton hull shape for smaller boats below 30' or so. I think it would be ideal for kayaks. I have used this shape for cruising and especially for Tour boats. The later, being for commerce, have to have an excellent R.O.I and have to be carefully designed to meet stability,regulation,certification etc. Notice on the photo, the absence of a bow wave and no wake.