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#1
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| foredeck layout Can anyone help - I am wrestling with the design of my foredeck. She is a cutter and I want a traditional looking bowsprit - medium length. I also want my 45lb CQR to roll off a bow roller when I release a hydraulic windlass. Couple this with the stay and things are just too crowded up there - can anyone give some pointers? Has anyone taken the anchors through side "hawspipes" on a 35' boat? |
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#2
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| We have a set of hawsepipes on our 33 ft 90/90 MS. They work great as the fore deck is lowered (about 9 inches ) foward of the collision bulkhead (about the first 4 ft of boat). The lowered area also makes the bow pulpit "higher" while standing lowering a sail. Some advantages include the lack of need to remove mud from the anchor , and the ease of securing it from motion. The weight IS high and at the boats end , so the anchors are carried below voyaging offshore , while off the Contenental shelf. The hawse holes bail the area in seconds due to the hole size compared to the resessed area volume. The Danforth series of anchors suits hawse holes a bit better than the plows , but all can be made to work, and self stow. The foward recessed deck even sorta serves as a bow cockpit with nice comfy relaxing with sail bags and the autopilot remote in busy waters. They would certainly be first choice when building "the next" boat! FAST FRED |
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#3
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| hawseanchor Thanks Fred |
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#4
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| One more advantage (for Lazy folks like us) is the usual Hawse hole has a very generous radius (usually bronze) that is quite kind to rope. AS a cleat will be very near, the line to the hole will be very short , so little wear of the anchor rope occurs , sans chafing gear . FAST FRED |
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