Fitting out a budget trailer-sailer or pocket-cruiser

[Rachael]

Originally Posted by NordicFolkboat

I thought I'd use a USB or BlueTooth GPS dongle with my MacBook

That was my first instinct... but as I understand it, the power-drain of running a laptop, the vulnerability of the laptop to moisture, the near impossibility of reading the screen in direct sunlight and (critically) the importance of having a fall-back system lead me to think of using the laptop exclusively for passage-planning.

As I understand it, you can get the best of both worlds with the Geonav Gypsy: one set of mapping (Navionics) can be run (simultaneously or independently) on the hand-held unit AND the laptop. Keep the dedicated, self-contained waterproof unit in the cockpit. When you want the bigger screen, nip below and boot up the laptop.

I'm tempted... but the Yeoman Sport seems to be the really low-power combination that overcomes the limitations of a tiny screen and of having a small boat with no dedicated chart-table: linked to the GPS you can have a "screen" of huge proportions on your lap whilst at the helm... you get a stunningly effective way of adding and editing waypoints... and the backup paper system that you should maintain with ANY electronic system is right at the heart of the way you operate.

ps. As I understand it, the most impressive feature of a decent passage plotting system is integrated tidal stream capability... which doesn't come on any of the cheaper packages! SeaPro incorporates it... and with the Navionics reader the charts for the Gypsy could be used - but by the time you have all the elements that's quite a spending spree!

[NordicFolkboat]

Yes, the laptop would only be used in the cabin, away from light and seawater. I think I could actually live without a plotter in the cockpit, and navigate the old fashion way instead, only going below once in a while to check my progress. A GPS is no good for navigating in fog anyway, for that you need a radar, or at least AIS. And for only occasional progress checks and route planning, power consumption can be kept at a minimum by dimming the screen.

I thought I'd fill up the forepeak (which is too narrow to be good for anything else) with a few deep-cycle batteries and maybe install shore power or solar panels to keep them topped up. I haven't really made an energy budget yet, so I don't know what would be cheapest.

Say, what are your ideas regarding the galley? If I'm going with propane heat, I'll definitely get a combined sink and propane stove unit. If I decide on oil heat, I see little point in going through the trouble of a propane system, so I'll probably get an Origo alcohol stove instead. Although if I get a Taylors paraffin stove, I won't have to carry so many different fuels.

[Rachael]

Originally Posted by NordicFolkboat

If I decide on oil heat, I see little point in going through the trouble of a propane system

Is propane much trouble? Seems straightforward compared with most other marine things! You may have to modify a locker slightly (make it externally vented, and sealed from the cabin)... but isn't it then just a matter of a regulator and hose? Am I missing something?

Given that propane is ubiquitous in caravans and for camping I'd have thought it made the most sense in boats.

ps. We've already got a gas and a stove: it's about the only thing that was already installed. Tempted to investigate rail-mounted BBQ as the gas is already there. Haven't sorted heating out though: I'm guessing that means installing some sort of flue...

[NordicFolkboat]

It all depends on what level of safety you want. Here's what I consider a minimum for boat installation:

1) Sealed locker with a vent. The vent has of course to be over the waterline, limiting the height of the bottle to less than the freeboard of the boat. Which probably means at least two 6 kg bottles if the heater needs to be used.

2) Hose won't do. Through bulkheads and for lengths more than 1.5 m copper pipe is required. From there, you connect your stove and heater through individual valves (so if you have to remove one appliance, you don't have to shut down your whole system)

3) A leak detector. If you press down on a button, the gas is directed through a glass filled with glycerol. If it bubbles, it means there is flow in your system.

4) This is especially important if you leave the master valve on to have the heat on during the night: A gas detector wired to a solenoid valve at the tank. If it detects gas levels only a few percent of the explosive mixture, it shuts down your entire system, and alerts you of the situation.

As for the heater, it should be placed close to wherever cold outside air is taken into the cabin. I think the aft bulkhead is a common place to install it. Propane burns clean, and only needs a short flue and a small vent through the deck. Try to place is so the risk of getting accidentally burned is minimized, especially considering you have a toddler on board.

Also expect to bring an assortment of different regulators if you go cruising abroad, so you can quickly adapt to all the various standards.