Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Design > Sailboats
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-11-2011, 04:06 PM
howardm's Avatar
howardm howardm is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 22
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Engine bed modification

Hi,
I am looking for ideas how to bolt down my new engine.
This is an engine swap from a petter mini six to a Yanmar 2YM15.
The new arrangement will include an Aquadrive, so I can get the engine lower down. I have shaved the beds horizontal and am making a subframe from rectangular hollow section, so the engine can be slid out like an ambulance trolley.
My hesitance is with the subframe to bed ( 2-1/2" Maple ) I don't want coach bolts, but, thought of something like Helicoils expoxied in the wood.
I would appreciate any ideas on this fixing.
here are some pictures of work n progress.

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w...027%20project/

thanks
Howard
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:28 PM
michael pierzga michael pierzga is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Rep: 670 Posts: 2,457
Location: spain
I don't like wood engine beds, they split. I like your idea of being able to slide the engine out . Dont know if you can use helicoils with wood. you use "INSERT NUTS"

The last time I did an engine change on a small launch we fabricated a hat section of aluminum plate to dimensions that would fit overtop the old fiberglass engine beds. Thick aluminum engine mount blocks were welded to this aluminium hat section, the engine was mounted on this pair of hat sections in the workshop. The whole assembly was then lifted up, dry fit to the beds to test rough alignment.., shimmed, marked, then Lifted up again, disassembled sand blasted, primed, painted.... reassembled ,epoxy filler was then spread on mating surfaces of the old engine bed and the new hat section, then the whole assembly was lowered onto the old beds and into the epoxy bog. It worked well . This was a very small engine. We used aluminum because we had it...steel would work.
Attached Thumbnails
Engine bed modification-insert-nuts.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-11-2011, 06:46 PM
wardd wardd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Rep: 443 Posts: 925
Location: usa
google "thread inserts for wood"
__________________
liberty ships were beautiful
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:00 PM
messabout messabout is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Rep: 749 Posts: 1,314
Location: Lakeland Fl USA
Wardd. (Off topic)You must be an old guy to even remember liberty ships. Many of them were concrete and served the purpose quite well.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:02 PM
FMS FMS is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Rep: 125 Posts: 233
Location: united states
I prefer thru-bolted metal upside-down L or U engine mounts which straddle the stringers.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:06 PM
tunnels tunnels is offline
old one !
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Rep: 402 Posts: 1,918
Location: china is great and interesting !!
Will the motor fall if the boat rolls 360 ?????

If the boat rolles 360 will the beds be strong enought to hold twice the full weight of the motor and gear box !!!

Wooden beds well glassed are ok .
For cruising /racing serious off shore roll over and upside down proof engine bolt down you need to bolt through the beds so its impossibe for the bolts in the mounts to fall or pull out .
we used to use square steel 1 inch X1 inch throught the beds from side to side inserted and then drill and thread down into the steel !! need to set the steel a good 3 inchs down from the actuall mount surface so need almost 4 inch long bolts .
Or use u shaped steel also through bolted and thread into the u steel !!!!,so has to have at least a 1/2 thick top for a good amount of thread for the bolts to hold .
__________________
Making beautiful boats is a passion never a chore !
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-12-2011, 06:13 AM
howardm's Avatar
howardm howardm is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 22
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Thanks guys,
I take the point about 2G inversion, but, I have to work with the beds I have inherited.
I have gone off vertical inserts for this reason, so I think in shear, horizontal bolts low down are the way to go.
Howard
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-12-2011, 06:32 AM
tunnels tunnels is offline
old one !
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Rep: 402 Posts: 1,918
Location: china is great and interesting !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by howardm View Post
Thanks guys,
I take the point about 2G inversion, but, I have to work with the beds I have inherited.
I have gone off vertical inserts for this reason, so I think in shear, horizontal bolts low down are the way to go.
Howard
You might find it easyer to use 1 1/4 steel shaft and just drill the hole all way though each bed have to be careful when you drill down that is as close to centre of the steel as you can get . Its a good way to use up and old prop shaft if you have a broken or damaged one
__________________
Making beautiful boats is a passion never a chore !
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Self Leveling Bed Bahama Boat Design 32 09-03-2010 10:35 PM
Perkins 6354-t 180 hp turbo engine bed? elioti Diesel Engines 4 02-27-2010 09:02 AM
Longitudinal engine bed stringers Kastally80 Class Societies 10 08-26-2008 02:39 PM
engine bed and stringers fishweed Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 7 04-11-2008 07:54 AM
Engine bed CarlosSan Inboards 1 01-18-2008 07:26 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:12 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net