Daggerboard Coating

Yep, the saturated rope trick works good and I recently did a rudder like this, though the same boat also had a metal leading edge and bottom corner on the centerboard, so go figure. I've found polyester line works best, both cored single braid or double braid. Another cool method I've used is to mill some HDPE or preferably UHMPE to fit in a slot on the appendage. The PE can be milled to shape, but needs to be mechanically fastened. UHMPE can take quite a beating, while HDPE is a bit softer and both are easily replaced, without having to refair them with filler, assuming the profile is what you need.

 

I admit I'm not familiar with the Barracuda, but a lot of older designs have quite thin foils which benefit from q/s laminating solid and glass sheathing. Stuff like Optimists, Cadets, Minisail etc where 1/2" ply was the original. Thicker foils tend to take the bend loads from kids capsizing and bouncing a bit better... yup the old 'by the cube' ROT.
and that's without going into the hydro side....
I'd guess, after loading some (boards) up whilst in the vice, that the glass adds at least 30% extra stiffness on a 25mm (1") thick foil. Agreed the mahogany in the OP is a lot stiffer inherently than a lot of the lighter stuff WR Cedar, Alaskan yellow, Sitka etc that I normally use. So the % benefit will not be as high. Often with a heavy leading edge piece ie Sapele. Enough for a race use, though similar seems to survive quite well even at the hands of the kids..... where I resort to Doug Fir with cappings.....

 

Chrysler was in the boat business in the 60s and 70s.