Coleman electric plant with marine smoke scape

Hi this is another crazy idea, see the one of outboard like a saildrive. This is it an electric plant Coleman or what ever with a salt water pump conected to the muffler for quite and fumes preventions at the stern. The only concern I have is the noise and the vibration but the noise with a good air conditioner was resolve. And the vibration I think that plants came with rubber mounts. The idea is for the marine are so expensive and any service need a mechanic and dont forget the cost vs a Coleman. If the seacock is close before start the plant its not gone to be any problem of getting water in the inside of the motor. What you think folks. About the RPM I think we can lower them for lower the noise and the fuel waste that can be done with a voltemeter because the RPM produces the correct watts. A 2000 watts plant cost with electric starter $700. plus the salt water pump and muffler and a couple of things $1000.00 A marine one 3.5 k Onan cost like $3000,00 and anyway you need the muffler and bla bla and the AC breaker etc. IDEAS welcome

 

It would be an illegal and dangerous installation. The electrics are not shielded in that type of generator.

 

I read thats convert ilegal for the fumes concern, because for the elctrical thing you can move the panel to a different place maybe in the inside of the boat. What you think Gonzo, here in Puerto Rico the Nature Resource agents gave tickets for people that have the small ones in the trasom of their boats. One family die complety here two years ago for that thing. But with a good water muffler and a perfect air filter I think its gone to be alright, comments welcome are goods for everyone.

 

I suppose it would be an OK installation if put into a lazarette or some other well-ventilated compartment seperated from the rest of the boat. Be aware that all the surrounding metal of these units are not designed for the marine environment. If the gas tank if metal- it will rust. The frame will rust, the muffler will rust, every fitting will rust.

The marinized versions (supposedly) use corrosion-resistant metal for ALL parts.

 

Thank Seafarer, that a concern that Iam worry but can be coated with something and at the moment that happens its gone to be time to trow the unit to the garbage safe a couple thing and buy a new after five or six years of zero maintance easily. I think a couple of minutes ago about the ventilation and we can install a blower same use in boats in that way its gone to take any fume at refresh the unit at the same time. More comments or ideas friends. It worthy for money and maintaince safe dont you think and more important not expensive mechanics looking around.

 

If you are going this route, I'd recomend you look into powdercoating the frame and gas tank. Depending on how large a unit you get, you may be able to do this youself with a kit and an old oven (not the one you cook in!). Definately replace the hose clamps with stainless steel ones. The LAST thing you want are the hose-clamps on the fuel line rusting away after a few months and then dumping fuel on a hot engine. Also replace the bolts that mount the engine to the frame with stainless steel. It would not be beneficial to have the engine fall across the hold when the boat heels.

You can also look for a unit with a plastic gas tank (or fit a plastic tank youself.)

Rinsing down with fresh water regularly will obviously prolong the life of the unit. Just be sure than any sensitive parts (ignition, air filter, etc) are adequately sealed.

 

It would be an illegal installation in a lazarette because it is an enclosed compartment. There are no filters or mufflers that take carbon monoxide or carbon monoxide out of the exhaust gases. Also, no maintenance for five or six years, specially in a marine environment, is completely unrealistic.

 

Your basic problems with electric generation from gas engines on boats is the way it's made. Sparks from the armature, spinning through the brushes at the back of the generator, are what need to be shielded from the fuel fumes. This and marine grade materials (corrosion resistant or inert) are the basic differences between land based variants of similar devices.

Venting isn't legal, though can work, if you're willing to risk it (I wouldn't, I've seen many boats on fire)

Typical land based, gas powered generators have carburetors which don't work well in the marine environment. There's more to it than meets the eye, from the stand point of safety and durability. These low cost systems have mild steel parts (which rust quickly in a boat and has been pointed out), no vapor return control (read explosive potential), the gaskets and other seals don't like the marine life much either.

In short, this isn't a good idea. If you build one, it will break down quickly, has a strong ability to blow up in spectacular fashion and is risking the well being of yourself, those that may be aboard and others that may get unwillingly caught up in your attempts to low ball your way into cheap electrical power. I'd sure not like to be docked near or next to your boat with that thing running. It's a fire waiting to happen.

 

The fire is a good point but my Onan everything is cheap still , the base are rotten the exaust is rotten the air filter cap everything in the outside is rotten then is the same thing of a landplant. I dont see anything marine between one and the another only that the onan circulate water in the inside and with the coleman I need to connect the water hose to the muffler hose. The manual said in the Onan in any circunstances wet the electric unit or electric breaker panel. Anything is water proof or weather proof. About the fire the only gas line can be braided for $5.00 and I will be use a marine plastic tank for more safety and gas reserve. In the world they are so many many boats and sailboats with gas plants and inboards the fire occurs with neglected people than left the things without maintaince or do incorrect things close to gas units. The monoxide was the same of a marine one because the muffler its gone to be in the stern like other ones and with water coming out same thing. the air filter I can copy the system of the onan is an enclosed cap with a little hole for vent. I put my nose there and smell the same of my coleman write know with the ordinary air filter. Come on guys can be work doing properly its not a big deal think about it. Gonzo take it easy men dont be mad for ideas is not the idea of this forum Iam trying to say dont say no no no to everything good luck to everyone.

 

By putting a camping generator into a boat you are risking several things:
- Corrosion
- Fire or explosion
- Exhaust reversion into the cabin
- Deterioration of internal components
- Getting busted by the Coast Guard
The risk of fire or explosion is far greater, and far less predictible, than you'd probably like to think. Especially in a lazarette. You could easily blow your transom right off with the push of a button if something so minor as a seal in the float bowl deteriorates a bit. Or you could send a fireball through the aft bulkhead into the cabin. Or just quietly kill your crew by an exhaust leak. A camping generator simply isn't safe in a confined space. If you do go ahead, please put a large TDG label for explosive/flammable material on each side of your hull so the rest of us can stay clear.

 

Mario, what you're seemly missing is the fact that if a land based variant of this generator was usable in the marine environment, don't you think we'd all have sold our marine gen sets and bought a old Ajax?

There are many things you've over looked, built into the marine engine and generator. Some of those include:

Engine side;
- Throttle and choke shaft seals (vapor control and return)
- Fuel bowl vent loop (vapor control and return)
- Flame arrester (obvious)
- Marine grade aluminum, stainless and bronze for shafts, body, bushings, metering devices and other parts, which replace the mild steel and land based grades of aluminum and other quickly corroding materials.
- Crankcase ventilation is closed loop, not the open loop used in land based products (vapor control and return)
- Spark shielded ignition (obvious)

Generator side;
- Spark arrester
- Baffled cooling
- Fully tinned wire, crimped and shrunk connections
- Corrosion resistant contacts
- Corrosion resistant internal parts, especially bearings
- Marine grade receptacles
- Moisture resistant enclosure for the output package
- Dielectric coatings on everything that isn't protected by an enclosure

There are several other more detailed issues of both the power plant and generator that have special features, it's not necessary to list them all. You're not the first to think of this. People who have done what you're thinking of doing are partly the reason we have standards to address for marine grade generators. We need people like you to test how things shouldn't be done so we can advise, or if necessary, legislate ways to avoid problems in the future. Trust me, if a company could lower their costs by tossing in some land base parts in their marine grade machines, they'd do it in a heart beat.

This doesn't mean you can make a conversion, you surly could, but it would likely cost more then buying a full up marine generator. If you want to do something real special, try to find one of those 5 HP Hatz diesels (used) and bolt it to a generator.