Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Design > Sailboats
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-15-2003, 04:08 PM
J & J J & J is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Rep: 10 Posts: 14
Location: New Orleans
Bill Garden Force 50

The Force is a heavy boat with allot of room and can be bought for a fair price from $35.000 to $350.000 if the latter is a fair price. The boats had a problem with the balsa cored decks and allot of them rotted due to water getting in around the screws from the teak decks. I posted to another spot on this site about this but got no reply so here it goes. Marine plywood or end grain balsa glassed over, to teak again or not?. The deck balsa just seems so light for this heavy cruiser. I was thinking like 5/8" or even 3/4" 1088 ply wood and three layers of glass to make it a full one inch. The boat will have dive tanks the launch chickens and pigs on deck you get the picture.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-11-2005, 12:16 AM
ytquest ytquest is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Rep: 10 Posts: 19
Location: Hendersonville,Tn.
Teak again,Devinasil core ,roven-woven,heavy cloth,chop mat,West sys. epoxy teak deck fasting technique
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-11-2005, 06:42 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Rep: 850 Posts: 3,625
Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
The easiest repair is to pull the teak and scrap it.

Grind the deck down to the glass , and use an epoxy trowled in with a knotched spreader and lay on Core Cell , or similar.

Vacume down , shop vac will do till cured.
Lay a top coat of glass ,Pollyester or Vynelester resin (3/4oz mat & 24oz roving ) about 3/8 thick . It will be lighter than the teak & easier to keep up.

Leave the rotten balsa or plywood in place , it will eventually dry out and stop stinking.

Rolled on no skid from the commercial side of Sherwin Williams (same as on carriers) is safest.

Not an Difficult or exppensive refit , but loads of grinding & layup.

But the deck comes out lighter , stronger and insulated if the better core materials are used.

FAST FRED
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-11-2005, 08:24 AM
cyclops cyclops is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Rep: 38 Posts: 1,059
Location: usa
Is it realistic to expect any soaked large lump of mostly covered balsa to dry out in any water front area? I thought only true epoxy should be used in areas where water is a problem now and in the future. Screwing down any type of wood deck is restarting the same problems again. Droping dive tanks on a deck will probably dent and break the water tight seal you want to mantain. Closed cell and Epoxy only, are my choices and remove any water absorbent stuff while you are in there. Good Luck.
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Solomon Technologies - "Electric Wheel" electric motor propulsion systems lockhughes Hybrid 229 04-10-2013 05:25 PM
Option One - how big Willallison Option One 43 12-20-2005 06:44 AM
Hydrodynamic Force Guest Boat Design 2 02-18-2004 10:54 AM
Force needed to roll or counter roll fer_mayrl Boat Design 1 02-13-2004 04:21 PM
50' Mikelson for sale in CA Nikamagic@earthlink.net Marketplace 1 10-01-2003 12:18 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:38 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2013 Boat Design Net