21st Century Daysailer/Weekender

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by Doug Lord, Dec 31, 2009.

  1. GTO
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    GTO Senior Member

    At the risk of sounding "unmanly", that thought just doesn't appeal to me. :)
    95% of my sailing will be on a crowded local lake. I just don't see that working at all.

    The ballast consists of the crew, gear, and weight of bottom panels. I see the low volume floats acting as a "shock absorber" so that any misstep by crew has a little additional cushion. I think another plus is the potential to use a smaller rig, since the boat will be laying over less, giving more drive from the sail(s). That leads to faster, easier rigging and a "safer" boat.

    Actually that number is perfect, since it essentially covers the weight of the hull and possibly the rig. Now add 2 people, battery, trolling motor, anchor, water/drinks and food for a few days, camp stove, and various other items and now the displacement is hitting the 1100 pound mark. That also matches up with the Night Heron design by Mr. Jones.

    My 230 pounds being aft the majority of the time should easily balance the forward head compartment and if anyone is actually using it, the plan is to ease off. No windward bashing to punish the poor soul during the activities. This design also has larger stern area that will provide more buoyancy than the typical slim hull tri.

    Certainly the narrow hull and off-the-water step minimizes wetted-surface area and wave interaction, but again, I'm not looking for high performance here - just good.
    I do plan to bolt the crossbeam mounts on the hull. If the floats turn out to not contribute anything worth while to stability, they will come off. Having a flat bottom boat and sailing it for 4 years has lead me to feel that the floats will in fact be useful. If they aren't, I'll just have a box keel, flat bottom boat. Might be a motor boat, but....
     
  2. Doug Lord
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    Doug Lord Flight Ready

    =====================
    I don't disagree with "smaller floats" but this is what I said:

     
  3. GTO
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    GTO Senior Member

    I did catch the planing issues Doug, but thanks for making sure.
    I'm guessing pointed or vertical blade style cylinders would be the best shape for low volume floats. Do you think that shape is appropriate?
     
  4. captainsideburn
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    captainsideburn Junior Member

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  5. Doug Lord
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    Doug Lord Flight Ready

    =======================
    I'm not sure what these are, but I think something like a Hobie 14 or 16 hull might work for what you want.
     
  6. Doug Lord
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    Doug Lord Flight Ready

    ===================
    I like both of those-a lot! Thanks!
     
  7. Tanton
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Tanton Senior Member

    User Friendly

    Water ballasted 21 footer.
    Also available a 24' version.
     

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  8. Typhoon
    Joined: Mar 2009
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    Typhoon Senior Member

    Modern profile drop keep, lift it with a block system off boom. If you make the keel long enough to be useful, it's going to come out the cabin top, or it's case will, so that may force a swing keel.
    Pop tops are a great way to make a small cabin big for overnighting whilst keeping the boat looking nice.
    Make the companionway large enough so inside and outside can become one area with a big boom tent, set boom fairly high for this (also makes boat much more user friendly when sailing).
    Not too much beam, so it'll actually sail when heeled over. Something quick enough in all directions.
    A 20 footer should be easily trailerable, it should weigh less than 800kgs. PLEASE lay up the decks/cabin with core to reduce condensation below!
    Agree with the deeper cockpit suggestions, however, perhaps just have a smallish footwell below waterline and have the seating above waterline, reasonable compromise, ship SOME water but not enough to endanger the boat. I don't care if there are NO seats, I will sit on the side deck, as long as my feet are in a comfortable position to keep knees at a good angle/brace against heel of boat. No coaming needed either.
    A proper transom design that recognises an outboard will be mounted there (don't bolt in a $59 stainless bracket), something you can reach from the cockpit to change gears/throttle and make sure it's deep enough in the water not to cavitate!!!
    Make it very easy and fast to rig. A pivot on the mast step, inline lowers to stop mast moving sideways when lifting mast. I'd like to see no proper backstay, just dinghy style swept back uppers. If you run a little prebend, they support the mast brilliantly. If you run no backstay, you can have some roach on the main and that also helps support the mast upwind.
    Fully battened sails are great, just roll them up on the boom or around themselves, but provide storage down below for them (under cockpit?)
    Leave timber and veneers out of the inside of the boat, make it so I can pull up the floorboards, pull out the cushions and hose the boat right out.
    If I'm going to cook, it'll be with a BBQ or gas stove in the cockpit under a tent, please, no feeble attempts at a galley, not even a hand basin!


    Regards, Andrew.
     
  9. jim lee
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    jim lee Senior Member

    I agree with almost all your points. But, leave on the backstay. Backstays do wonders for de-powering your sail plan upwind. Let it loose for light air and add a "flicker" to hold it out of you way for tacking your extra roach main.

    -jim lee
     
  10. Doug Lord
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    Doug Lord Flight Ready

    A repeat of the first post-perhaps there are new ideas that could fill the bill on this concept:
    -----------


    I'm curious what some of the contributors here think would make an improvement on daysailer/weekenders of the past and present. By daysailer/weekender I mean a boat from approximately 14' to 20' with minimal accomodations-perhaps just a small open cabin like the O'Day Daysailer or enclosed cabin like my TS-18.
    What do you think would constitute an improvement of these types of boats and why?
    ---
    Wording included in the Daysailer literature-sort of a minimum requirement for this type:
    "Forward of the cockpit is the cuddy cabin area. With the inclusion of the new safety features, this area has been restyled… an accessory vinyl lockable cuddy enclosure is now available. The cuddy provides adequate room for two to camp out overnight."
    http://www.gjenvick.com/BangorPunta/ODay/1973-Catalog-ODay-DaySailerII.html
     

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  11. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Improvements

    As GTO mentioned, a potty...oops, wee head.
     
  12. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Nice...
     
  13. BobBill
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    BobBill Senior Member

  14. BobBill
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    BobBill Senior Member

    Improvements

    Departing from my potty flip, I was really serious, and do not wish to see this jack the thread, but,

    I am one who favors transoms, for a lot of reasons.

    What the heck fun is sailing if you have to worry about stuff rolling off the stern?
     

  15. peterAustralia
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    peterAustralia Senior Member

    in terms of sitting headroon on a small boat

    A mulithull has the advantage, in that weight is distributed in a small width, allowing for more sinkage. Thus say you have 26 inches of beam, and you sink 12 inches, then only 3.5ft remains above the waterline.

    A monohull dayboat will tend to be flatter and wider, your 4.5ft of headroom may be 4ft 4" above the waterline. This will increase windage, and lead to a degree of instability, which is why small dayboats are built with low cabins.

    There is a website called small trimarans dot com, you can google it

    maybe something like this suits, lots of space and comfort, built by Gary Lepak about 30 years ago

    http://www.tacking-outrigger.com/cabin_tri.html

    or you could put your own cabin on somehting like this, a pop-top cabin may be the solution to your space requirements. When inside, raise the cabin top, when sailing, drop down the cabin top to reduce windage

    http://www.dilworth.org/boat/blaze_of_glory/


    a list of mulithulls from duckworks
    http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/plansindex/multihullsail.htm

    is best to sketch your design, and then get feedback.

    Having used bolts to attach demoutable cross-beams, I would much prefer to use wooden peg and hole method, which in turn in secured in place with heaps of lashings. A very cheap, very strong, and very simple system. This is fast to assemble, place the crossbeams roughly in place, the pegs whcih are glues into the crossbeams drop into the holes made into the main hull, then lash it down in place.

    In terms of outriggers. 2 of us built a 13ft deep vee outrigger in 2 days of of plywood, very easy. One day to build the frame, the second day to add teh plywood skin. A deep Vee outrigger gives better perforance in a chop, a better smoother ride. very easy to make.


    There us a nice little trimaran here from Solway Dory. Add some sort of poptop or boom tent for protection from the elements and away you go.

    http://www.solwaydory.co.uk/

    maybe this may suit
    http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/ostlind/a18-t/index.htm
     
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