Synthetic lubricants vs petroleum lubricants for diesels

[SheetWise]

Does anyone have experience with oil polishing systems?

[SheetWise]

From the previously linked site --

"On June 21st, 1999 at 1,012,825 miles, this Peterbilt rolled into Covington Detroit Diesel for its third internal inspection in nine years. The report card for the first two inspections read Exceptionally clean engine and NO measurable wear. Finally, at 1 million miles, the only measurable wear that could be found was on the rings. That same truck is back on the road with the original bearings, liners, cam and the OLD conventional petroleum oil, which has now run 1 million miles since the last oil change.

How did this happen? The owner simply changed the inexpensive Gulf Coast Filter elements every 10,000 miles and the factory full flow filters every 30,000 miles. By following this safe and simple maintenance schedule, the oil stayed clean 100% of the time and wear was drastically reduced within the engine."

Link.

[FAST FRED]

The Detroit series 60 REGULARLY go that 1,000,000, in a few years of truck use, at 150,000- 200,000 miles a year.

Since
little down time equals no rusting of the cylinders , it is not suprising the engine would continue , with or without a roll of toilet paper or paper towels as an added "Majic " filter.

Syntetic oils like Amsoil marine have superior corrosion protection.

HMMM, the filter people Raycore are touting/selling Rust Inhibitors for synthetic lube to help "solve" the rusting hassles.

Are they screwing stoopid folks?

Or attempting to solve an ongoing problem?

FAST FRED

[StianM]

Originally Posted by SheetWise

From the previously linked site --

"On June 21st, 1999 at 1,012,825 miles, this Peterbilt rolled into Covington Detroit Diesel for its third internal inspection in nine years. The report card for the first two inspections read Exceptionally clean engine and NO measurable wear. Finally, at 1 million miles, the only measurable wear that could be found was on the rings. That same truck is back on the road with the original bearings, liners, cam and the OLD conventional petroleum oil, which has now run 1 million miles since the last oil change.

How did this happen? The owner simply changed the inexpensive Gulf Coast Filter elements every 10,000 miles and the factory full flow filters every 30,000 miles. By following this safe and simple maintenance schedule, the oil stayed clean 100% of the time and wear was drastically reduced within the engine."

Link.

As long as you can mantain a hydrodynamical lubrication it wont be anny wear simply because the part's are not in contact with eatch other. Some large diesels have primerpumps that are started befour the engine is turned. This make shure that all oilpipes and chanels inside the engine has preshurised oil at start up.

[FAST FRED]

"Some large diesels have primerpumps that are started befour the engine is turned. This make shure that all oilpipes and chanels inside the engine has preshurised oil at start up."

LARGE is the keyword here , a simple Series 60 has no pre oiler.

Pre- oiling can "save" the engines bearings and cam from wear at startup , and is frequently done on LARGE (2000hp and UP) engines.Where the lube oil is pre heated too.

For a seldom used boat the expense of a pre oil pump and hardware is not required.

If the owner will fit a 2 or 3 gallon accumulator with an electric valve the pre oil is seamless.

The switched valve is opened letting the oil in the accumulator pressurize the engines lube oil circuit.

The engine is started and after 2 min of operation the the valve switch is closed.

The oil will lubricate the engine & then is returned to the accumulator during that first 2 min when the oil pressure is highest.

NONE of this solves the problems of internal rusting with synthetic oil.

FAST FRED

[StianM]

I never see a engine have rust inside off it because it use syntetic oil.
If that hapens I woul recomend to change oil suplier.

[ted655]

From what I've been told, Syns have one drawback. Drainoff. They don't cling to surfaces as long. Startups are drier. A pre-pressured (or prestart) oil system is the cure.
Some advocate "mixing" regular oil (20%) to solve the problem.

[Ari]

Originally Posted by ted655

From what I've been told, Syns have one drawback. Drainoff. They don't cling to surfaces as long. Startups are drier. A pre-pressured (or prestart) oil system is the cure.
Some advocate "mixing" regular oil (20%) to solve the problem.

Mixing normal luboil with synthetic luboil is bad..the reason is type of additive used in both oil is different. The different chemical might not be compatible.This normally will result in the mixed oil became coagulate..turn to jelly.This process might take some time to complete..it is the same with other type of after market additive. If those product are compatible then it is O.K..if it is not..disaster..! Fully synthetic product are develop for the more advance or newer engine that have tighter clearance with variable temperature e.g: engine with turbo.turbo bearings needs luboil that can remain intack even when it is very thin and not turn to coke in the process, rockers doesn't need that high a quality and ability and the temperature is lower than what face by a turbo bearings..Synthetic luboil can perform this task real good. Engine that have very high RPM like 5000 and above will be very benificial with synthetic engine oil.It is the carbon particle/coke and some metal from engine erosion that mainly contribute to the inability to lubricate properly. Oil have the tendency to degenerate..that mean they have life span, so oil that been used a few hours in the engine and left for maybe six month without used won't be as good as before the 6 months lay off.