Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Collaboration > Projects & Proposals
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-23-2009, 01:12 AM
Externet Externet is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Rep: 24 Posts: 22
Location: California
Honeycomb fiberglass hull...

Good day to all.
I know nothing about, that is why am here, to listen and learn.

Not about engineered commercial composite panels, but a third-world approach to make a hull of this type. Please let me know your comments for an unusual approach.
There is no calculations on thickness nor on strength. Just looking for qualitative opinions on this description:

An existing hull, to be used as a mold; upside down covered with plastic film. Let's say 60 feet long, 15 feet wide.
A ~half inch layer of fiberglass cloth, o mat, or chop or a combination of them properly applied with resin on top of the film.
As this final resin is wetting the outer layer, placing bamboo slices one next to the other as to form a honeycomb layer, lightly pressed-in.
They are 4-to-5 inch diameter bamboo slices, say 1 inch tall, half inch wall, all in contact with their 'neighbor' slices.
After set, a second ~half inch layer of properly laid fiberglass and resin.
With the proper reinforcing attention and considerations to any edges or areas that deserve it.
After removed from the 'mold' and righted up, to add internal strengthening members.
I do not know how to obtain figures for bamboo strength calculations when used that way. By 'smell', I would say brutally strong. The sawed edges of the slices are very resin wicking-adherent.

Thanks.
Miguel
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-23-2009, 01:36 AM
Ad Hoc Ad Hoc is offline
Naval Architect
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Rep: 1776 Posts: 2,692
Location: Japan
have to be very careful with bamboo...it seems to contain loads of weird bacteria once cut (not present when growing), which slowly eats away the bamboo. has been a problem with bamboo furniture and all sorts for many years..despite lots of research to stop it.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:20 AM
alan white's Avatar
alan white alan white is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 1168 Posts: 3,270
Location: maine
Try PVC pipe instead. You will have to pre-fill pipe with foam before cutting, then it might support the glass/resin applied over it. I wouldn't want to be the poor fool running the cross-cut saw.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-23-2009, 04:49 PM
Externet Externet is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Rep: 24 Posts: 22
Location: California
PVC... would the resin aggresively stick to it ? Seen ~1/16" thin wall fiberglass pipe, could be used for the slices too... or treating the bamboo as it is practically a $0 material.

Would such contraption hull work ?

Miguel
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-24-2009, 12:34 AM
alan white's Avatar
alan white alan white is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Rep: 1168 Posts: 3,270
Location: maine
I'd experiment. Make up a few test panels. PVC seems to marry to polyester resin in my experience, but someone else here may actually know how well they bond.
As far as saving money on the hull, bamboo may be cheap, but I'd do a solid layup for the same money and stiffen with stringers. I personally don't like overly stiff structures because they are like eggshells. The do not yield a lot.
Stringers aren't stiff (like a modern fiberglass-framed camping tent. Bash one with a baseball bat. Does it break?)
Racing is another matter. Racing boats count on stiffness to carry huge loads without a lot of weight. But they don't suffer damage well, like punctures from underwater objects. In other words, I am wondering if you are attempting to get a very stiff hull, and if so, if it is intended for a specific purpose.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-24-2009, 12:51 AM
Jimbo1490 Jimbo1490 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Rep: 527 Posts: 792
Location: Orlando, FL
RE: PVC and poly resin: They don't bond well, not permanently anyway. But your idea is interesting, and there is a plethora of tube-shaped goods out there to choose from, many of which will be compatible with all the materials at hand.

But you need to consider is how the combination of drape and vacuum (you are pretty much committed to vacuum bagging to join the second skin to the core) is going to affect the practicality of this concept. Think of the cell size used with typical honeycomb. It's usually no bigger than 10 mm, maybe 13 mm max. Wet cloth will not sink very far into the open span of such a small cell, though it sinks in some. If you use a really big cell size as you are proposing, the wet cloth is going to sink WAY deep into the cells once put under vacuum, which will not be acceptable for a number of reasons. Going to a more conventional cell size will mean many hours fiddling with tiny tube cut-offs, gluing them in place one by one. Sounds like a job for the new guy

Anyway, it's a dilemma you need to face.

Jimbo
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-27-2010, 08:44 PM
duktig102 duktig102 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 3
Location: east sussex
hmm

resin does not stick to the bamboo. Get a better effect by using epoxy resin. Personally, I do not support combining resin with wood. These two materials work differently, there is a separation. Try an alternative to bamboo, to do just fine pleated laminat.Po Strengthen shape. In such a laminate is difficult to make a hole in the outlet and is very strong. And when it comes to repair it recommend.
http://www.laminat-repair.co.uk/

Mvh.Sylvester
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:05 AM
apex1
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by duktig102 View Post
resin does not stick to the bamboo. Get a better effect by using epoxy resin. Personally, I do not support combining resin with wood. These two materials work differently, there is a separation.
Mvh.Sylvester
Do you refer to Polyester when saying "resin" ?

Both are resins, Epoxy too!
And the combination of wood and Epoxy resin is a perfect boatbuilding material.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:50 AM
sabahcat's Avatar
sabahcat sabahcat is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Rep: 224 Posts: 715
Location: australia
SOOOOooooo much easier and I daresay a lot cheaper

http://www.polycore.com.au/

http://nida-core.com/english/index.htm

http://www.nidaplast-honeycombs.com/...id_rubrique=94
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:00 PM
duktig102 duktig102 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 3
Location: east sussex
hej

said resin I mean resins, polyester or the cheapest. I agree that the epoxy resins and wood are an excellent example of hockey sticks (low temperatures, powerful forces strokes). Most polyester resins are used for economic reasons and no fire resistance. In addition, epoxy resins cure to a long (at 18-22 ° C 99% strength for 30 days at 80C is a time of around 4-5 hours but note too quickly achieve a sea temperature of 80C to cause boiling of the resin and foaming and even a large number of explosions . As for the merger of the two resins with wood proposes to perform the test: stick a piece of bamboo mat stick to the outer part and then hit him, deflect, destroy. I know the result. in the next week I will try to post on my site http://www.laminat-repair.co.uk/ a few photos, and ways of combining polyester resins with wood.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:27 PM
apex1
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by duktig102 View Post
[Quote = apex1; 338898] Czy odnosi się do Poliester, kiedy mówi "Resin"?

Obie są żywice epoksydowe też!
A połączenie drewna i żywic epoksydowych jest idealnym materiałem szkutnictwo. [/ QUOTE]

said resin I mean resins, polyester or the cheapest. I agree that the epoxy resins and wood are an excellent example of hockey sticks (low temperatures, powerful forces strokes). Most polyester resins are used for economic reasons and no fire resistance. In addition, epoxy resins cure to a long (at 18-22 ° C 99% strength for 30 days at 80C is a time of around 4-5 hours but note too quickly achieve a sea temperature of 80C to cause boiling of the resin and foaming and even a large number of explosions . As for the merger of the two resins with wood proposes to perform the test: stick a piece of bamboo mat stick to the outer part and then hit him, deflect, destroy. I know the result. in the next week I will try to post on my site http://www.laminat-repair.co.uk/ a few photos, and ways of combining polyester resins with wood.
You should give up drinking!

And remove the "quote" above, I do´nt post in such languages.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-29-2010, 04:45 AM
CDK's Avatar
CDK CDK is offline
experimental engineer
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Rep: 1316 Posts: 2,145
Location: Adriatic sea
I'm mesmerized by the word "honeycomb".
Bees make those without any core material or measuring devices yet can maintain uniformity and even build them over curved objects.

Genetic manipulation to make bees with epoxy glands instead of bee wax would be a major breakthrough in boat building. The little insects are hard workers with little needs.

Alternatively, a study might reveal the bee's secret so we can build machines that produce honeycomb in the desired hull shape.
__________________
Stupidity must be a virtue, whole industries, governments, even economies depend on it......
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-29-2010, 07:43 PM
gonzo's Avatar
gonzo gonzo is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Rep: 1397 Posts: 7,216
Location: Milwaukee, WI
I'll sign up to be a drone
I don't see any advantage over a foam core. The fiberglass would be all lumpy even if it adheres. Also, the voids have to be filled with something other than resin or is will be very heavy and expensive.
__________________
Gonzo
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:45 PM
Herman's Avatar
Herman Herman is offline
Resininfusion.info
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Rep: 987 Posts: 1,178
Location: The Netherlands
One small addition, ISO-NPG polyester adheres to PVC.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-30-2010, 11:41 PM
Jimbo1490 Jimbo1490 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Rep: 527 Posts: 792
Location: Orlando, FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDK View Post
I'm mesmerized by the word "honeycomb".
Bees make those without any core material or measuring devices yet can maintain uniformity and even build them over curved objects.

Genetic manipulation to make bees with epoxy glands instead of bee wax would be a major breakthrough in boat building. The little insects are hard workers with little needs.

Alternatively, a study might reveal the bee's secret so we can build machines that produce honeycomb in the desired hull shape.

I thought of this decades ago, but with wasps or hornets. They make honeycomb nests too, but from a much more useful material: paper (cellulose fiber). Without any genetic manipulations they can be persuaded to make their paper honeycomb in a way that's useful, such as covering a complex shape. Then the paper can be impregnated with a thin resin to add strength, then covered in skins.

I'm not sure any of this has a shred of practicality, but it was an interesting thought experiment, anyway

Jimbo
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Vacuum Bagging honeycomb core ian_upton Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 35 07-07-2010 04:43 PM
Building ultra like hull with honeycomb core BSR001 Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 7 10-01-2008 01:06 PM
Honeycomb panel Gypsie Materials 2 07-11-2008 08:00 AM
about aluminum honeycomb material keanu916 Marketplace 2 04-09-2008 03:06 AM
Fiberglass and honeycomb repair info? Doctor Dave Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building 4 03-06-2004 12:41 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net