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  #1  
Old 10-14-2009, 11:44 AM
jbars jbars is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 3
Location: Vancouver
21' 1978 Campion

Hello all,

My first post so here it goes.

I have an opportunity to restore this old boat of my dads and have a few question I would like some input on.

My plan was to convert the inboard to an outboard with a bracket and swim platform.

First question is regarding the transom and how the plywood only goes up until the screws for the rub rail.

When I reinforce the transom should I tie the wood into the top, tuck it under the top cap?

I know I have to bond the new wood to the two sides and bottom, around the corners 6-8".

I need to replace the stringers and it looks like the bottom where the stringers would sit is slightly below the surface so I wasn't going to grind this flush, is this okay?

Should I take the boat off the trailer when working on it or can I leave it on so I can pull it outside to work on?

I wasn't planning on a cradle support to hold the hull shape as I'm not cutting though the outer skin, is this okay on this type of boat.

Allot of questions for a beginner and probably more to come.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks for reading.

Regards,
Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
21' 1978 Campion-picture-boat-april-09-013-copy.jpg  21' 1978 Campion-picture-boat-april-09-016-copy.jpg  21' 1978 Campion-picture-boat-april-09-027-copy.jpg  

21' 1978 Campion-picture-boat-april-09-025-copy.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:21 PM
gonzo's Avatar
gonzo gonzo is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
Besides the question of weight balance, the transom is strong enough to handle the bracket. The sterndrive was bolted to it and produced all the thrust there. You can rebuild it with two layers of 3'4" plywood. If you use polyester as the original layout, put mat in between the layers. Also, between the fiberglass and the plywood. Put one layer first and use all holes available to screw it down tight. Screw the second layer to it with 1 1/4" galvanized screws. Tab the edges with three layers of mat and then lay two layers over everything.
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Old 10-14-2009, 02:48 PM
jbars jbars is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 3
Location: Vancouver
Thanks for the feedback Gonzo.

I've read a bit regarding the weight balance issues and an outboard bracket with flotation built-in is the way to go.

Are you suggesting to build it up one layer at a time or bond the two 3/4" plywood together first and then bond to the hull?

Is the height of the new plywood okay at the current height, below the rub rail screws?

Regards,
Jeff
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2010, 07:14 PM
Freddy P Freddy P is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 2
Location: Nanaimo
Hello

I came across your post and thought I would inquire how the restoration to your Campion has been going.

I am in the process of restoring my old 1976 Campion (21 foot Kelsy). After removing the engine, I have just finished putting in new stringers, new plywood transom, and spray flotation foam, plywood floor (which I have fiberglassed over). I also ground off the gel coat below the water line and put an epoxy sealant...

Still lots more work to be done. Have not had a chance to work on the boat in the last year as I have just moved. Anyways, I am curious to see how your progress is going, and how your outboard transom mount worked out.

Fred
Attached Thumbnails
21' 1978 Campion-imgp0810.jpg  21' 1978 Campion-p1000054.jpg  21' 1978 Campion-p1000225.jpg  

21' 1978 Campion-p1000241.jpg  21' 1978 Campion-p9230069.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2010, 01:07 PM
jbars jbars is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Rep: 10 Posts: 3
Location: Vancouver
Hi Fred,

Unfortunately I have not progress at all, too many distractions.

Have been doing a little work on my dad's new to him Seaswirl instead.

I like the pictures you attached and the work looks great.

Thanks for inquiring and I might have to contact you in the future when I start back up on the Campion.

Regards,
Jeff
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2010, 11:39 PM
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Easy Rider Easy Rider is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Rep: 668 Posts: 665
Location: Thorne Bay Alaska
Opinion,
If it were my boat I'd build a well in the stern and mount an outboard in the conventional way or extend the stern. The Ideal place for the engine and other heavy things is aft of center but close to the center of the boat. A standard outboard (especially the new 4 strokes) places the weight too far aft and an extended bracket just makes things worse. The only reason outboards have worked well over the years is that they were light .. WERE light. The best handling and balanced boats have their non hull mass centered in the boat. When a boat w lots of weight aft encounters a sea the bow is being wedged up in the air even when the wave is centered on the bottom of the hull as all that weight aft hasn't been lifted yet. The bow rises and falls too much and w all that weight aft the fuel and passengers get to ride fwd and experience too much up and down. If you could find another boat like it that was dirt cheap you could cut off the stern and laminate together a longer more stable boat.
As I say ..opinion.

Easy Rider.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2010, 03:13 PM
Freddy P Freddy P is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Rep: 10 Posts: 2
Location: Nanaimo
Hello
I have to agree with Easy Rider. If the extended bracket was flush with the bottom of the hull it would add a bit of floatation. The only brackets I have seen are stepped up from the bottom of the hull suspending the engine.
My plan was to put an inboard outboard back in the boat. The old engine was a V8 Ford 302 cu/in with a 188 Mercruiser stern drive. A new EFI V6 with a leg would be enough power and I would not be changing the design of the boat.
Another option would be Easy Riders suggestion to build an outboard well which in the end would take less room than the engine I removed.
When I removed the stringer I supported the boat and removed and replaced the two inner stringers then the two outer stringers.

Freddy P
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