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  #1  
Old 12-12-2006, 05:50 PM
Luis A Leon Luis A Leon is offline
 
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Location: South Florida
Rybo Runner Repower

I have recently purchased an 88' Rybo Runner without Power and getting ready to completely restore the boat. The previous owner had Twin Yamaha 250s xpdi's and claims that the boat did 50+ mph fully loaded including 375 gal of fuel and a full Tuna Tower. The last thing I would ever want to do is to under power the boat. Could someone please share some information with me on proper power for this Rybo? I guess the real question is if I am going to repower with new engines would the performance of the boat benefit significantly if I were to go with twin 300hp instead of twin 250hp or would it even be necessary to go to 300's?
Any comments on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Luis
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2006, 11:17 PM
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marshmat marshmat is offline
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Do you trust the previous owner's claims? If so, would you be happy with that kind of performance? If yes, then there's not much reason to spend more on bigger, heavier, thirstier motors.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2006, 08:15 AM
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Pericles Pericles is offline
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Location: The heights of High Wycombe, not too far from River Thames
Repower

You could consider the Sword Marine option. http://www.swordmarine.com/

Pericles
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2006, 11:57 PM
glassr glassr is offline
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Location: Melbourne Shores,Florida
rhybo power

Good year for your hull . Check for cracks around bulkheads for and aft.
Re-enforce transom to stringer joints with 24" knees.
Your hull would handle three 300hp motors with no problem! The hull was designed to handle that load, plus fuel running hard in 6' seas. Rhybo's stepped hull is great.
Quality of the glass lay up for the Rybo was spotty some times,so I would have it surveyed just to make sure you're not buying a spiders web of problems. Other than that you've got a hull that with three 300's will do 70 but, with two 250's you'll go a little farther but a little slower for $100.00 less per trip in fuel.
I don't think that the stern mounted propulsion system would work on your hull because of the Rybos c/g.They are 900lbs each, thats alot of weight torqueing on a transom built for almost half that weight.Not to mention jet pumps eat everything,but don't spit it out!
But hey, add a little more glass(engineered plans) and you could probably get away with three of those things!
If you've got a little time,and money you could put two 300hp Yanmar diesels under the console with twin surface drives done like 40,42,45 Don Smiths and have the perfect offshore machine. Whatever you do, if the hull isn't trashed you've got a great platform to start with. Good luck!
glassr
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2006, 08:33 PM
On The Job Rob On The Job Rob is offline
 
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Location: OCMD
Luis

I also am restoring a 1983 Rybo Runner hull #10 and also was curious about repower options.I have researched this alot I have looked at diesel inboard,diesel IO with a jackshaft and outboard with a bracket.This particular boat was powered with the omc seadrives and speaking with the two previous owners pushed the boat just fine and I think they were rated at 225 hp.I think I have narrowed it down to repowering with the outboards and bracket system.If I had to buy power today I think I would have to go with the Suzuki 300hp four strokes now I am 1 to 2 year from installing power and the 300 is not available yet.If I was going the 2 stoke route I would look at the 250hp E-Tecs both are new to the market but by the time I will repower they should have the bugs worked out or something better might come along.The biggest problem with the rybos is the weight on the stern and the location of the scuppers when redoing one of these remember to redesign the scuppers on these boats.If possible I would like to know how your fuel tanks are laid out because you said you hold 365 gal of fuel I only hold 200 gal and would like to add 100/150 gal more.If you could keep posting progress on your project as I am always looking for new ideas on what to do.I plan to post progress and pictures for others to look at and point me in the right direction.

Good Luck

Rob
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2007, 04:19 PM
On The Job Rob On The Job Rob is offline
 
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Location: OCMD
Update

I have slowly been working and have now about got the hull and top side ready to prime I just want to fair 1 or 2 more times. I will not repower till the spring of 08 but have put a lot of work into it and have made up my mind to go with the bracket. I have been in touch with armstrong about it and come to find out with this particular hull you have to be pretty precise on the hole set up do to the steps in the hull. They said years ago they had alot of problems with engines blowing power heads do to alot of turbulace from the steps and set up is vey important. I will try to post some pics and when it comes time to mount the bracket I wil be here to ask for some help as I have never installed one before.
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2007, 04:34 PM
RYBO2007 RYBO2007 is offline
 
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Location: Florida
I have a 1985 rybo Runner Hull With the vented steps and it has the factory Outboard bracket on it I was going to restore the boat and have since fell apon to many projects i am will ing to sell the hull as is for $7,000.00 or if finished with choice of awl grip paint color for $25,000.00 I orderd a new deck and console for the project and hull is ready for paint the boat will be better than new please contact me at FYDINC@Aol.COM or 239-247-8475
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  #8  
Old 05-08-2007, 07:17 AM
RYBO2007 RYBO2007 is offline
 
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Rob I have a original Rybo Runner Bracket that Might be up for sale pending Power Decision 239-682-2070
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2008, 05:09 PM
hargravesg hargravesg is offline
 
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Location: New York City
Rybo Runner

Did you ever sell the hull?

Thx
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  #10  
Old 01-14-2009, 08:30 PM
fishing1 fishing1 is offline
fishing1
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Location: ocean city new jersey
Rybo Runner

I purchased a 1985 Rybo Runner a couple of years ago in Florida. I had been looking for one for a long time. My intentions were to completely restore it so I didnt want to spend alot for just the hull. At this point the exterior and interior has been repaired and repainted. I am slowly dealing with custom making new hatches from starboard and thinking through all of my decisions.

As for power I have decided to go with the Etec 300 hp twinns. My main reason was due to weight, fuel economy and power. I know someone here in Jersey that has owned his since 1985. His advice was to move weight more forward. I have removed the old heavy brackett and will be going with an Armstrong which is much lighter also.

I understand there is a scupper ball valve that is available but not sure where to find. I have found cheap ones in West Marine etc.

I believe the added weight of 4 stroke motors would be a mistake.
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  #11  
Old 02-01-2009, 04:46 PM
ThomasJ ThomasJ is offline
 
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
I'm currently looking at a 1985 Rybo and I'm wondering if you can tell me what coring material was used in the deck, top cap and transom. Thank you very much for responding.
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2009, 06:44 PM
fishing1 fishing1 is offline
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Location: ocean city new jersey
The deck is all fiberglass. I'm not sure of the correct name of the product but the top cap or I think your referring to the top of the gunwales is fiberglass core product with fiberglass top finish gel coat. The product is approximately 1/2" to 3/4" thick from memory with a center of cellular rigid form. In some areas there is plywood glassed in from the under side for more strength. The front bow large area is that way.
As for the transom it is fiberglass inside and out over approximately a plywood base thickness of at least 1 1/2" to 2" thick.

I was just working on the boat today. I work on it a little each weekend. At this point I know the shell of the boat really well. I have shimmied through its hull under the deck. etc.

Its a great boat with a great reputation. There is a person in my area that has owned one since 1984. He always puts money into it to keep it in great shape. It is currently in being repainted at the same boat shop that my boat was repainted. He just passed away 2 days ago. Bummer.
I strongly recommend that you have the boat surveyed and the hull scanned inferred. This will show any areas under the fiberglass that have taken in water that you can't see with the naked eye. Good luck.

Fishing1
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2009, 07:08 PM
ThomasJ ThomasJ is offline
 
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Thanks for the info. I thought that was the case but I wanted to make sure. My other favorite boat is the 31 Ocean Master but every older 31 I've been on has had wet deck coring and wet coring in the gunwales especially around the hardware. Not only just wet, but at least some delamination as well. The Rybo has a huge advantage here.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2009, 10:06 PM
rybo30 rybo30 is offline
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Location: NJ
NJ Owner of Project RyboRunner

Fishing1

I saw your post and it is a small world as I purchased a 86 RyboRunner about 3 months ago and now have a shell in my back yard. The unit had twin inboards which I have removed and planning on replacing with bracket and OB's and trying to figure out how to beef up the transom. Would love to talk to you about your project. When done, I will run also out of OC. My email is twysocki@efsprobe.com
Tom
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2009, 06:44 PM
fishing1 fishing1 is offline
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Location: ocean city new jersey
rybo30

Small world Rybo 30. I am currently building a large garage to house the boat for the duration of the project in my back yard. The building should be done by July and the boat moved over to it then. I will start up again on work on it. I hope to have it in the water by summer 2010. My email address is Rksnowbiz@aol.com How far along are you on your project? I live just outside of Ocean City in Beesleys Point. Are you local as well? Let me know. Would like to share information.
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