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  #16  
Old 10-13-2016, 04:35 PM
gtflash gtflash is offline
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The age old rule of plate 1" above is a rule of thumb for bog standard boring boats

Another rule of thumb is for every 6" of rear offset, you can go up 1/2" so in theory 1.5" up in this scenario, but all boats are individual and there is no exact science. I am with ondarv. Plate doesn't need to touch water, but some people say it needs to be splashed with water

Highly unlikely you are going to run surface piercing, so with what ever prop you have, does it plane, does it feel stable, does it not over heat, does it corner. If all are ok, you may not be too high, if it gets hot, lower it. If it won't plane, lower it. If your WOT is too low, get a smaller prop If it's too high get a bigger one. Add a blade and you will loose some rpm. Switch to stainless from Ali and you will gain a tiny bit of rpm It's an absolute black art, friends with props are best friends
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2016, 09:08 AM
the brain the brain is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash View Post
does it plane Quickely, does it feel stable,not real stable actually little unstable at top speed does it not over heat,undetermined haven't run it for extended period of time the overheat light guage comes on during initial startup diagnoises does it corner. not good either it's like driving a tank If all are ok, you may not be too high, if it gets hot, lower it. If it won't plane, lower it. If your WOT is too low, get a smaller prop If it's too high get a bigger one. Add a blade and you will loose some rpm. Switch to stainless from Ali and you will gain a tiny bit of rpm It's an absolute black art, friends with props are best friends
I've decided on replaceing the bass boat prop 14 1/2" X 24 w/ a 14 3/4 x 21
thanks for surport
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2016, 09:20 AM
the brain the brain is offline
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can I use this prop. on my OMC 175HP seller states it was on his stern drive mercruiser.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112153782826...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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  #19  
Old 10-14-2016, 04:41 PM
gtflash gtflash is offline
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I am not familiar with the prop you have or sent link too. It looks like you have a 3 blade stainless. As others said it looks like your 24 is too big Dropping to a 21 or 19 will give you more revs. If the one you have has a nice attitude and it grips sufficiently then look for something similar. If you are after more speed I personally think you could go up in height but my boat runs several inches above standard so it looks low in comparison. Might be better to set height before buying props as the height may change prop choices
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  #20  
Old 10-26-2016, 08:58 AM
the brain the brain is offline
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Results of 4th shakedown w/ new aluimin 14 ¼” X 21 pitch prop.

here's my new prop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/112168706195...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

1. WOT RPMs where lower at 4500 than the 14 ½” X 24 pitch which was 4800RPM
Did’nt connect GPS for MPH.
2.planed about the same as 24 pitch, like right away.

I would like to have another 1K RPM at WOT
So what do I do now?

Thanks STB
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  #21  
Old 10-26-2016, 10:48 PM
Mr Efficiency Mr Efficiency is offline
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Something not right here, you have gone down in both pitch and propellor diameter, and lost rpm ? What about the engine height, did you go down ?
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  #22  
Old 10-27-2016, 10:16 AM
the brain the brain is offline
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actually I was planning on going up one set of holes I feel the engine could be dragging creating more drag.

did you see the video
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2016, 08:10 PM
Mr Efficiency Mr Efficiency is offline
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Originally Posted by the brain View Post
actually I was planning on going up one set of holes I feel the engine could be dragging creating more drag.

did you see the video
The video in #1 post ? yes, it certainly was not too high in that. Bear in mind when going up, that whilst you might be able to raise it substantially to good effect in calm water, rough conditions might see it needing to come down. Maybe a jacking plate is in order.
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  #24  
Old 10-29-2016, 01:25 PM
the brain the brain is offline
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you make some good points.

I actually have a hydrolic jack plate however I don't want anymore setback.

from what I've read when boat is on plane the anti cav plate should be skimming ontop of water so in either situation smooth or ruff water not should how this applies to my situation?
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  #25  
Old 11-11-2016, 02:56 PM
kapnD kapnD is offline
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I see in your other thread you are in the process of enclosing the cabin, adding a genset and AC, fuel tank, livewell, deep fryer, etc.
I would leave the prop selection until you are finished adding weight.
Having an unrealistically high target speed will not help you in selecting an appropriate prop that will have acceptable performance at all speeds.
The weight of the rig, the shape of the hull, and the horsepower all impose limitations on what speed can actually be attained.
David Gerr's book titled "Propeller Handbook" explains the intricacies of propeller selection in easy to understand terminology.
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  #26  
Old 11-19-2016, 01:01 PM
the brain the brain is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Efficiency View Post
Something not right here, you have gone down in both pitch and propellor diameter, and lost rpm ? What about the engine height, did you go down ?
I had another chance to take the boat out I was actually incorrect about my previous findings.

w/ the new 14 1/4 X 21 aluimin prop I am now able to achieve higher RPMs closer to the 5500desired RPM (haven't completely document exact RPMs)

the higher than 5K RPM w/ new prop was achieved w/ trimming up seamed like the more I trimmed up the higher the RPMs I believe it I trim up to much then the prop. loses it's traction correct.

edit this last shakedown was in saltwater if that has anything to do w/ results.

edit I estimate the addition of the rear inclosesure to be around 100LBs.
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  #27  
Old 11-19-2016, 02:39 PM
Steve H Steve H is offline
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Keep in mind that anytime you go from a stainless prop to an aluminum prop, performance will be lost.
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2016, 02:54 AM
ondarvr ondarvr is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve H View Post
Keep in mind that anytime you go from a stainless prop to an aluminum prop, performance will be lost.
Not if you go from the wrong SS prop to the correct aluminum prop.
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  #29  
Old 11-20-2016, 11:59 AM
Steve H Steve H is offline
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Originally Posted by ondarvr View Post
Not if you go from the wrong SS prop to the correct aluminum prop.
Then why did he lose RPMs with a lower pitch prop until he overtrimed it?

Stainless will always out perform aluminum. I know they are more expensive, but on this particular application a SS prop is the way to go.
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  #30  
Old 11-21-2016, 12:08 AM
Mr Efficiency Mr Efficiency is offline
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Stainless is certainly the way to go, in this instance, or any other where there is a greater chance of ventilation/cavitation issues.,
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