Grumman 5.0 repaint

[fish is a fish]

I recently purchased a Grumman 5.0 C.C. got (what I think is) a good deal. The hull is in great shape, other then the original paint is scraped from hand pulling hoop nets. What my question is, what is the "proper" way to repaint her.
The reason I say "Proper" so loosely is that I have been told so many ways, and some involve Jasco paint stripper, but the can says not OK on aluminum.
In my opinion I don't necessarily need to strip the whole thing down just think I need a good sanding primer I can shoot, sand and repaint with??
But what do I knowDo any of you know of any good primers and paints that would work "properly" in this application? and is this an advisable way to repaint?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Jimbo1490]

Awl-Grip's "Application Guide" tells you pretty much everything you need to know about successfully painting aluminum, i.e. getting it to stick more than a week For stripper, use one designed for aircraft since airplanes are mostly aluminum. I use products from Eldorado Chemical. They make a full line of prep chemicals from strippers to metal brighteners (etch) to chromate conversion (Alodine). Their stripper is environmentally friendly and much safer to handle as it contains none of the chlorinated alcohols of 'old school' paint removers.

Jimbo

[fish is a fish]

Thanks Jimbo,I will check out Awl-Grip's site.

[FAST FRED]

Your'e local car paint shop will have stripper that is AIRCRAFT grade.

It works fine on marine aluminum BUT most of the early Grumman work I have seen is riveted , not welded , and stripper remaining under the rivet head and mucking up the later paint is a real concern.

I would get the boat "soda blasted" or similar , that would get off the paint without later worries.

FAST FRED

[fish is a fish]

Originally Posted by FAST FRED

You're local car paint shop will have stripper that is AIRCRAFT grade.

It works fine on marine aluminum BUT most of the early Grumman work I have seen is riveted , not welded , and stripper remaining under the rivet head and mucking up the later paint is a real concern.

I would get the boat "soda blasted" or similar , that would get off the paint without later worries.

FAST FRED

You are correct it is riveted. So I do need to remove the old paint,I was thinking of some sort of two part buffing primer applied over the old paint after sanding would work, guess not. I will look into soda blasting. Thanks...

[Jimbo1490]

Your'e local car paint shop will have stripper that is AIRCRAFT grade.

This is only true inasmuch as this stuff will take off most aircraft finishes. But it is NOT aircraft grade in that it does not meet a key specification used by the government (Military Spec) and industry (BAC, BMS specs from Boeing) to rate paint stippers for their ability to cause 'sandwich corrosion' in the skin seams of aluminum skinned vehicles. A stripper that does not meet the spec can remain trapped in seams and through contact with water and by a catalytic reaction the methylene chloride changes into hydrochloric acid. This can remain in the seams where it does great harm to aluminum. This so-called 'aircraft stripper' from the auto paint store is CLEARLY LABELED that it DOES NOT meet the sandwich corrosion test spec.

If you are going to strip a whole boat, then you will need a few gallons. Why not just buy a 5 gallon pail of the good stuff? Aircraft Spruce & Specialty sells the Napier line and I think you can still order directly from Eldorado Chemical. The stuff at the auto paint store is up to almost $40/gallon, last time I checked, so it's not likely you will save any money that way.

Jimbo

[fish is a fish]

Originally Posted by Jimbo1490

This is only true inasmuch as this stuff will take off most aircraft finishes. But it is NOT aircraft grade in that it does not meet a key specification used by the government (Military Spec) and industry (BAC, BMS specs from Boeing) to rate paint stippers for their ability to cause 'sandwich corrosion' in the skin seams of aluminum skinned vehicles. A stripper that does not meet the spec can remain trapped in seams and through contact with water and by a catalytic reaction the methylene chloride changes into hydrochloric acid. This can remain in the seams where it does great harm to aluminum. This so-called 'aircraft stripper' from the auto paint store is CLEARLY LABELED that it DOES NOT meet the sandwich corrosion test spec.

If you are going to strip a whole boat, then you will need a few gallons. Why not just buy a 5 gallon pail of the good stuff? Aircraft Spruce & Specialty sells the Napier line and I think you can still order directly from Eldorado Chemical. The stuff at the auto paint store is up to almost $40/gallon, last time I checked, so it's not likely you will save any money that way.

Jimbo

I would prefer NOT to strip the whole boat, but rather get proper adhesion with a buffing/sanding primer of some sort on the original factory paint that is all intact. All this is what caused my confusion in the first place before I found this site. Everyones advice is a learning experience for me. Thanks.

[fish is a fish]

soda it is! will Post some pics of B/A later.