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Old 07-25-2004, 03:01 PM
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Building stainless heat exchanger

Hi

I have a 283 chevy marine engine and am looking at building a heat exchanger to go on this. Does anyone have any info on sizes that I would need and how they actualy work.
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:40 PM
hmattos hmattos is offline
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Stainless steel is a very poor conductor of heat and is thus not my first choice for heat exchanger tubes. The copper / bronze alloys are usually used. Personally I would speak to Bowman - in the UK - or your local equivalent supplier, since a purchased unit will be much cheaper and more reliable than any hand built project
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:22 PM
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Corpus Skipper Corpus Skipper is offline
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Stainless will corrode quickly when used for heat exchangers or saltwater piping.
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:55 PM
TheFisher TheFisher is offline
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Use Monel, Copper/Nickel, or Bronze.
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:46 PM
theodk theodk is offline
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Heat Exchanger Configuration & Material Composition

I would recommend either T316 or T321 SS construction for continuous salt-water or fresh water applications. While it is true that the thermal conductivity of brass/copper is better than SS, the performance of a identically-sized and designed exchanger will be impacted by 5-6%.

Keep in mind however, that most heat exchangers sized for jacketwater cooling should be padded for the heatload tolerance specified by the dealer - for GM it is +/- 5%, for CAT is is +/- 8-10% depending on the engine model number.

So, I would not worry about thermal performance comparisons between a SS and brass exchanger. I would design around life cycle of the unit. In either case, the use of a zinc anode would help extend the life of either SS or brass exchanger.

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Regarding configuration..
If engine room is plentyfull, a shell & tube design is prefereable. I would run the JW circuit through the shell side (treated 50/50 prop/glycol mix) and run the raw untreated water through the tubes. Try to size the unit into a single-pass design so that the tubes can be cleaned with a pipe cleaner without removing the end bonnets.

If engine room is limited, a plate & frame exchanger is the way to go. They offer 45% more exchanging surface area than a comperable-footprint S&T (thus making the exchanger footprint much smaller), however are more costly and do offer a easy cleaning solution (if the internals get fouled by the raw cooling water).

I hope this helps..

Ted K.
Philadelphia, PA
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