| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| Building stainless heat exchanger Hi I have a 283 chevy marine engine and am looking at building a heat exchanger to go on this. Does anyone have any info on sizes that I would need and how they actualy work. Thanks |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| Stainless steel is a very poor conductor of heat and is thus not my first choice for heat exchanger tubes. The copper / bronze alloys are usually used. Personally I would speak to Bowman - in the UK - or your local equivalent supplier, since a purchased unit will be much cheaper and more reliable than any hand built project |
|
#3
| ||||
| ||||
| Stainless will corrode quickly when used for heat exchangers or saltwater piping.
__________________ Craig Cavanaugh Silver King Custom Marine No shoes, no shirt, no problem! |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| Use Monel, Copper/Nickel, or Bronze. |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Heat Exchanger Configuration & Material Composition I would recommend either T316 or T321 SS construction for continuous salt-water or fresh water applications. While it is true that the thermal conductivity of brass/copper is better than SS, the performance of a identically-sized and designed exchanger will be impacted by 5-6%. Keep in mind however, that most heat exchangers sized for jacketwater cooling should be padded for the heatload tolerance specified by the dealer - for GM it is +/- 5%, for CAT is is +/- 8-10% depending on the engine model number. So, I would not worry about thermal performance comparisons between a SS and brass exchanger. I would design around life cycle of the unit. In either case, the use of a zinc anode would help extend the life of either SS or brass exchanger. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Regarding configuration.. If engine room is plentyfull, a shell & tube design is prefereable. I would run the JW circuit through the shell side (treated 50/50 prop/glycol mix) and run the raw untreated water through the tubes. Try to size the unit into a single-pass design so that the tubes can be cleaned with a pipe cleaner without removing the end bonnets. If engine room is limited, a plate & frame exchanger is the way to go. They offer 45% more exchanging surface area than a comperable-footprint S&T (thus making the exchanger footprint much smaller), however are more costly and do offer a easy cleaning solution (if the internals get fouled by the raw cooling water). I hope this helps.. Ted K. Philadelphia, PA |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Solomon Technologies - "Electric Wheel" electric motor propulsion systems | lockhughes | Hybrid | 228 | 10-12-2011 05:00 PM |
| Hot water, heaters, cookers..... | Willallison | Option One | 41 | 11-16-2009 05:59 PM |
| Stainless steel / Aluminum | hendrikus | Boatbuilding | 5 | 06-30-2006 07:40 PM |
| Building a heat exchanger into the hull | djackson99 | Powerboats | 42 | 03-21-2005 03:15 PM |
| Building Cats in Brazil | caribmon | Boatbuilding | 5 | 09-04-2004 07:47 AM |