Boat Heater Question

[270ti]

I looked and I didn't see a forum titled "Stupid Questions".. I'm the new owner of a 40ft trawler, and I'm going to have a bunch of them. I've always owned 20ft boats, and this is my first experience with a big boat.

I've got my trawler up on blocks in the yard right now. Plan on leaving here their for most of the winter. I live in SE AK. Its wet. I've got the boat plugged into shore power. My question is: Can anybody recommend a good heater to have plugged in and running for the winter, to fend moisture? What are you guys using?

Thanks,

Joel

[Easy Rider]

Joel,
I use two kinds of electric heaters in my Willard in the winter in the water. There are 130W heaters available from West Marine ect that are designed to reduce moisture (I think) but they do put out some heat and have a very low power fan (barely detectable). In a small enclosed space they do make a difference. Less of a difference for you as you don't have the water to warm your boat's hull. If it's 15 degrees outside and your boat is frozen in the ice the hull is "warm" ...15 degrees (+) warmer than outside. I also have a 750W thermostatically controlled fan electric heater that I put in the engine compartment. I put out extension chords to run all the heaters and plug in and adjust as necessary. And When it gets down to 5 degrees I turn on the forced air Wabasto diesel furnace. If you're only concerned about moisture the 130W units will help. With your boat out of the water you need to "pickle" it. Put RV antifreeze everywhere there is water ...including sea water and excluding engine coolant. Water tanks, hot water tanks, lift muffler toilet ect. In the exhaust system RV AF may not be good for the hoses. When in the water I don't put RV AF in the exhaust ...I keep it from freezing. On warm winter days venting the boat will help w the moisture. I live in Thorne Bay and was going to bring my boat around to False Is but decided to keep it here for the winter.

Easy Rider

[TeddyDiver]

Check up this thread Diesel Boat Heaters

[tom28571]

I know he asked about heaters but why not consider a dehumidifier? You get the heated air as a by product and moisture removal directly rather than as a result of increased moisture capacity of the heated air. Only negative is a possible greater first cost but there is less operating cost. In serious high humidity and a large boat, that is what I would do and have done.

You would be amazed at what a lightbulb can do. Close the sucker up so that snow won't blow in on the bad days. (of course leave some ventilation but not much because snow finds its way if combined with wind) You don't have that much of dry, blowing snow there, so you can leave a little more ventilation. A very small amount of heat will move the air. If you want more heat, use an oil-filled heater for good, safe heat but many yards, including our biggest one in Homer say "No Electric Heaters". There have just been too many fires.
What makes the boat go? Right - the engine! (Put the heat down there - It's the most important thing on your boat and the heat will find its way up). If you don't have leaks, there will be no moisture, RUST, mildew, etc. come spring. A very small heat source (and bill) is all it takes. I use a small Wolverine Pad for keeping the place dry and a big one for a few hours before starting. A model 9.1 and a model 40 are a good combination for my 3,000lb engine and boat. http://www.wolverineheater.com/products.shtml

[Submarine Tom]

The WestMarine units are only 90 watts but opening all your interior "doors" allowing for maximum air flow is important and a dehumidifier would be briliant. As you say, you get the minor heat from the unit working plus the major dehumidifying.

-Tom

In case you have the boat stored outside, all you need is a very small ventilator, sucking from the deepest point of the bilge to the outside. (can be solar driven)

Cold air does not hold much moisture, the colder it is, the better. Now when you have a good airflow through the entire boat (doors, hatches and lockers open) you replace the warm and humid air (due to the sun heating your boat), by cold and dry air at night and when there is frost.
Heating the boat can be counterproductive!
Given you took all the measurements (winterizing) in the engine room, tanks, pipes head, etc. the solar vent is all you need.
I did so on my boats in Northern Europe.

Regards
Richard

[michael pierzga]

I agree with Apex. Ive never in 40 years with boats used a heater, even in freezing regions. Only good natural ventilation . Never put the boat away wet, with saltwater in the interior. Give it a good going over with a fresh water hose, wet and dry vac the bilges dry, then leave everything open to air.
Dehumidifiers can be effective in Southern climates.
A lilght bulb could be effective on compenents that you dont want to freeze, but which must handle water. Many boats SINK on dry land when a hatch seal leaks or a breaking and entry event occurs and rain water floods the bilge.

[270ti]

Thanks for the advice guys. My fiberglass guy contacted me yesterday and he is going to be ready to roll on the troller conversion much quicker than I thought he would. We'll be ripping out the back deck, glassing in a hold and a cockpit in the back. Big project. I'm hoping I'll be fishing next summer.

Easy Rider,

The false island boat yard is pretty nice. That's where I'm keeping my boat. Pretty cheap too, and they aren't charging for electricity right now.

[larry larisky]

i find the best is the diesel one for motor boat. i don't know on sailing boat with the hull heeling

[MatthewDS]

@Mark775

I never thought to use the head pads in a marine environment. That's a good idea. I lived in Fairbanks for 10 years, and the first thing you always did when buying a new car was to glue one of those pads to the oil pan. (In addition to the block heater, and the battery blanket)

Otherwise, a heat lamp is what we always used to keep the engine room toasty in the winter.