33 footer??

[Bryan1978]

I'm interested in building a new 33 foot center console. I'm located out of tampa florida and need some advice on how to get started. My plan is to build a 33 foot 11 foot beam center console with twin 350 mercrusier I/O's with jackshafts. I have a few drawings of what I want and about to transfer to drafting paper for my jigs. So I need peoples advice on if I got this correct..

My jigs will be cut from 9/16 OSB for the cost. Each rib will be place 1 foot apart. Then, because I dont know how to bend 3/8 wood, I was going to use 1/4 door skin material to get the shape. After the form was complete, I am going to spray it with gelcoat to get a smooth finish and buff it out smooth again. Then apply mold release.

As you might be able to tell at this point, I dont plan on leaving any wood in the hull. As far as the lay-up goes, thats where I'm lost. I dont know how thick to make the bottom or sides but know the transom needs to be atleast 2-3 inches thick. I also wanted to use a core for the bottom, and sides if needed. So the boat will be built like a cold molded boat but no wood in the hull. If someone could tell me what weight glass to start with till finished, I'd appriciate it.
Thanks for all your help..
Bryan

Originally Posted by Bryan1978

I'm interested in building a new 33 foot center console.

As you might be able to tell at this point, I dont plan on leaving any wood in the hull.

WHY ???

As far as the lay-up goes, thats where I'm lost. I dont know how thick to make the bottom or sides but know the transom needs to be atleast 2-3 inches thick. I also wanted to use a core for the bottom, and sides if needed. So the boat will be built like a cold molded boat but no wood in the hull. If someone could tell me what weight glass to start with till finished, I'd appriciate it.
Thanks for all your help..
Bryan

It looks like you have all the final decisions already made....!
What about the basic ones.....?
There are no written rules i.e. how mighty a transom has to be!It all depends.
Let us have some proper info about the project ! Drawings, data, source of the design, intended use, and the like.
Someone here will provide some proper advice.
BTW: is this transom strong enough? The exhaust cutout diameter is 28cm or11 inch !
Transom layers are 9 times 24mm solid Mahogany wood!
Apples and apples yes.... this is a 72ft, 45 tonnes, 3550 hp, 33 knot boat... wood Epoxy.
So, what was your question?

[rasorinc]

Here is a plan of a boat the size and use you wish to build. This is built out of wood . I post this because there are inexpensive study plans which will show how strong in has to be built out of wood materials. This might help in determing what you need in composites.
https://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=729 multiply fly wheel hp x 7 to get shp

[Bryan1978]

Honestly, I was looking for info as to the lay-up of fiberglass. And the building of my plug. Do I need 33 ribs spread out for a 33 footer?? Is 1/4 inch door skin material going to hold up/bend to the shapes I want?? What should be my first layer of fiberglass be?? Chopped from a gun or 20 once mat?? I dont have anything to take the drawings that I have to the computer, the sheets are huge, like 4 foot by 2 foot. I dont want wood in my boat. Just my preferance. Thanks for your help.

If this is of any help>> I'm building this boat to go fast and efficient. I dont care for outboards. Money is an issue, so surface drives are out. I choose some Merc 350's with Bravo 1 out drives for there cost and speed, striaght inboards wont give me the speed I'm after. Over here out of tampa, we gotta run far to get some big groupers. We can run 100 miles and still be in 100 feet of water. So if that helps, I hope it does, then you'll understand what I'm looking for.. Thanks again

[rasorinc]

Just for your info inboards can go faster then outdrives and are more reliable. Also Bravo 1s are limited in regards to horse power. No matter what you will need engine stringers. So it is wood or steel or aluminum for that. are you going to have a reverse curve at the bow? If you are looking here for someone to say convert 3/4" plywood bottom to a composite of say 8mm of glass that is engineerng and you better have a stamp and signature on your plans for that. engineering is not free and you do not want to go 100 miles offshore on a guesstimate.

Originally Posted by rasorinc

Just for your info inboards can go faster then outdrives and are more reliable. Also Bravo 1s are limited in regards to horse power. No matter what you will need engine stringers. So it is wood or steel or aluminum for that. are you going to have a reverse curve at the bow? If you are looking here for someone to say convert 3/4" plywood bottom to a composite of say 8mm of glass that is engineerng and you better have a stamp and signature on your plans for that. engineering is not free and you do not want to go 100 miles offshore on a guesstimate.

SIC.........
@ Brian
so, let us have some REAL information.. size of your backyard is as important as dephts of your swanpond.......

[Bryan1978]

My experiance with boating.... Been in and on boats since birth.. Family owned 19 bayliner capri, then 24 searay, then 34 chriscraft, then 42 ocean yachts sportfisher till today. My boats have been 22 trophy CC, then a 25 Trophy CC, then a 30 wellcraft excaliber/project boat. I'm a machinist by trade, and worked with glass alot, made hoods, fenders, trunk lids, for cars. Took the 30 wellcraft, gutted the thing, new strigers, filled the transom, new floor, storage, bought a new console and T-top, out board bracket, twin 250 4 stroke yamys.

So the design is of my own, but I assure you, its almost 100% fountains bottom minus the steps. I re-designed the transom, added flare, made the hull wider by 2 feet.... this was a 33 footer I measured up.. I couldnt get the steps down, to difficult to draw out. Top side is all open, doesnt have the integrated swim platform. total power will be 600HP. These are twin 300hp 350 Mags... I thought about making the bottom 2 inches thick with 3/4 inches of that a foam core, then the sides about 9/16 of an inch with 1/4 foam core.

Back yard is big enough, just no crane.

[rasorinc]

what are you going to anchor those engines on??? torque will rip bolts out of fiberglass and core. what is your stem made out of and your keel? I will be right back with a posting of a RIB life boat in 4' chop. Please think about what your doing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsY87ykIBiY

Bryan. Sorry to be the bearer of disheartening news but you do not have enough boatbuilding background to even ask good questions. I do not mean to be rude about this but start by reading a lot and working for a builder. With a year of dues, you can think about building from scratch - and will know to leave the OSB at the tract home site. Best wishes - Mark

[rasorinc]

Brian, I'm a wood boat builder. With todays epoxies and fiberglass wood far outlasts fiberglass and composites. Even outlasts steel and aluminum when done right and cared for. I built my first boat in 1958/9 and it was a Glen-L plan. I never design the HULL. But I change lots of things after that and fully understand weights and balances. All of my hulls are designed by a Naval Architect. On the coast here in Oregon we lose lots of boats each year and their Captains have lots of experience. Most are steel hulls. The oceans are freeky in that all is well one moment then all is Hell. Do not risk yourself and friends on an unknown hull. Besides you cannot insure it and the Coast Guard will not approve it. Even Sea Ray a few years back misdesigned some of their larger boats and even with all their resources and engineering had their larger models breaking in half while out to sea. Cost them millions. I am writing all this not to discourage you but to ask you to reconsider you talents at design and materials. New boat builders can build almost anything if they follow a good set of plans and never try to save on plans. I really wish you well and hope you will build a boat. It is a great adventure and good for the whole family but get professional plans please. Don't want to read about a sad happening to you. This is the best advise I can give you. Build it!!!out of any material you want to but do it with professional plans...Good luck, enjoy.

[Willallison]

Try getting hold of a copy of Dave Gerr's Elements of Boat Strength. It will give you all the scantling calcs that you need. It's a very simple text and the results are on the conservative side, but they are based on solid engineering and will meet or exceed ABS standards.
If you find that you have trouble with the info in that book, then I'm afraid Mark777 is right.....

[Bryan1978]

ok, taking someone elses advice about this has been difficult when the person is not in front of me, but I've been doing my research. Below is a link to a boat that I think would work. But my question is: is this doable to take a design and stretch it a few feet?? And this looks like its designed for out boards, I already have the 300hp Merc Mags with the jackshafts and Bravo 1'1 from the wellcraft, so these got to fit, atleast one of them. So let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks

http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=CS23

[rasorinc]

Now You Are On The Right Track. Bateau Has Been Around For Awhile And Numerous People Have Built Their Plans. See If Someone Has Built This One. Good Luck The topside would look great in a natural wood like zebra wood. You will need to add motor stringers and do a weight and balance check and maybe someone here can help you with that.
http://images.google.com/images?q=ze...num=7&ct=title

[KnottyBuoyz]

Originally Posted by Bryan1978

But my question is: is this doable to take a design and stretch it a few feet??
http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=CS23

You won't get a warm response from Bateau on the "stretching" idea. There are however two different variations of the CS25 that'll suit your needs.

[JohnnyO]

I just recently purchased a 33ft Bare Hull from Bradenton, FL.

The hull is a Buskens SportFisher... It's 100% stripped out and ready to be built into whatever you want it to be. Buskens is out of GulfShores and built some really high quality GRP hulls in their day.

The reason I am mentioning this, my intentions were to turn this into 1 bada$$ center console but since I purchased it, my priorities have shifted. I have 3 boats already and a 24ft pontoon boat and the "better" half is really complaining ! ! ! ! !

The shaft-log is still in place, stringers are all still in place..... Just add your floor and whatever you want, an outboard bracket which I located one in Tampa for cheap, also located some 225 Mercs with fresh rebuilds cheap at a shop in Tampa.

I paid 1500.00 for the hull, but would take $1250.00 (firm) I can also arrange for it to be moved for you for around $3.00 per mile.....

It's scheduled to be shipped to me the 3rd week of February..

Call me if interested - 337.368.7188

ps - the hull lines / design are very similar to the bateau design you were looking at. This is really nice construction and about 5k cheaper then you could build a similar hull and by far better quality. It was built for a hard core commercial useage environment. It's also USCG documented so register it privately or as a commercial vessel and start making $$ with charters without all the hassle of the paperwork process !

You can run in 3 modes with this hull design..... Displacement / Semi-Displacement / Planing.... depends on how much fuel you wanna burn. weeeeeeeeeee

Regards,

JohnnyO (CaptainDaDa) - I have 6 boys !