Can I trust the 'autolube' of a two stroke engine?

Just keep an eye on it and follow routine servicing

The autolube on the Yamaha wave runners had a hideously bad reputation BUT the clear plastic tubes were the only real weak point - they got soft and either split or came loose. Triple carb 3 cylinders worst. People who changed those (20 bucks in parts but about 4 hours work) never had an issue.

Autolube CANNOT be removed for fuel injection systems - the injectors can't tolerate pre-mix.

 

That. The VRO was notorious. I've run a number of them for a very long time (in fact, still do have a 150) simply as premixed 50:1 engines.

I've had many Yamaha OBs over the years and only two ever suffered oil delivery failures; both due to stripped pump drive gears. Both engines were ruined too. But I'll still keep the Yamaha oil injection in place rather than premix fuel for them.

 

We have a yamaha jet ski on which the autolube stopped working the previous owner did not check the fluid levels to see if oil was being used it`s not worth fixing.
There is mixed opinions about going to premix fuels I personaly would stay with the original system.

 

Tom
old systems had no warning on them, for years now microprocessors have monitored them.
VRO's also have oil pump monitoring them from version number 2
There are many dealers out there that would say never had pump failure not caused by the operator...
If you are nervous run 100:1 premix and your oil injected engine ( NOTE that will do nothing on DFI engines)
Now days a computer runs the pump on late BRP 2 strokes and the oil is injected to only where its needed.
They produce less emissions than 4 strokes everywhere except wot, then similar.
Mercurys current F2 race engine, 200xs is oil injected and runs a 8000rpm redline
( PS 2 strokes produce more power right down to about 20:1 oil ratio, all modern ones will survive at 100:1)

 

Thank`s powerabout I love the variety of technology available in all fields but it sure makes confusion. Oil premix or injected into two strokes is supposed to lubricate the engine not to burn, it is just a bad idea and a bad design. There are lots of wet sump two stroke engines. You would not want your four stroke to burn oil.

There is nothing that can not be customized and there are lots of accessories for all types of modifications including computer chips to do a variety fuel delivery purposes and fuel types especially in many autos for operation in different countries and climates.
Fuel injectors are delivering all types of fuel these days in all fields and low grade fuels and are are reliablely doing the job.
Interesting info www.cheersandgears.com/topic/77062-return-of-the-2-stroke-engine/

 

?? I've been running, repairing and rebuilding 2-stroke outboard (1940s through 2000 models) for close to 40 years and I've yet to see one that was "wet sump" and not lubricated by the oil carried through in the fuel. Only very recently has the technology evolved beyond that, but now, 2-strokes are pretty much headed toward extinction anyway.

That's many decades worth of many millions of "bad idea, bad design" engines, yes?

And then there are all the power tools and motorcycles that use(d) the same 2-cycle engine technology.

I'm happy to see everything moving to 4-stroke technology though. I keep a half dozen or so of the highest performance legacy outboards to play with, but much prefer the newer 4-strokes for my regular-use boats. (140HP Johnson V-4 and 50HP Mercury Classic 4 being tow of my all-time favorites to "hot rod")

 

I can think of a few wet sump 2 strokes but they do 120rpm max and weigh several tonnes

 

Can I trust autolube of a two stroke engine

Most of the engine builders have tried two strokes wet sump super charge all sorts GMC, Ford,DKW to name a few just Google two stroke wet sump or similar.
Earth moving equipment, Drot skid buckets and the WW2 tanks, motorcycles and all of that gear. But this will not help our poster decide if he can trust Autolube systems.
Image added ,my experience of GMC two stroke wet sump engines.

 

any SI ones in production anywhere?

Back to the topic, if I buy anything new these days the only thing I am interested in is the w/tee ( and is there a dealer close by)
I have heard the new BRP 300HP outboards have extended w/tee to 7 years clearly BRP has confidence in the oil injection system
And yes the old jap mechanical systems of early jap outboards had no warning systems, a blockage meant a dead engine.

 

Thanks to you guys.

Now I don't worry about the autolube but the oil itself.

I have another suzuki dt40, a month ago my friend drove my boat out for fishing and ran with W.O.T for about 20 minutes then.... The engine stalled!

Later I was told my motor scored badly and need to replace two piston assemblies(pistons, rings, sleeve, and more..), I was also told the crankshaft should be replaced if money is not a problem.

My friend told me the cooling water coming out quite well before the motor stalling, so I would suspect it might be the oil's problem. I just bought the oil from a dealer on the web, I don't know him well so I'm not sure if it's a genuine YAMAHA tc-w3 oil.