Ok, Now What...?

[Portager]

Originally posted by Willallison
However, for what its worth here's my list - from bow to stern:

Head
Fully enclosed separate head with basin, wc and shower
standing headroom (1.75m min)

I think that should be >=1.85m (6')

Galley
sink, 2-burner cooktop, fridge (freezer?)[/b]

You can make an effective freezer by putting salt on ice and putting it in an insulated compartment. It is best to put it in a sealed conductive container so salt water doesn't spill. If you decide you don't need a freezer, then you have two ice boxes.

Helm
Sitting and standing positions (stand up with head out roof?)

Head out roof is OK if it is my option. I want to be able to stand up without having the stick my head out.
Enclosed - weather tight
Good ventilation
Room for mounting instruments (GPS, compass, UHF/VHF radio, optional radar?)

Anchor
Self draining anchor locker
Anchor chain wash (raw or fresh water?)

Sea keeping
Capable of making short open water passages in good weather and able to survive unexpected changes in conditions.

Helm
Enclosed - weather tight
Good ventilation
Room for mounting instruments (GPS, compass, UHF/VHF radio, optional radar?)

Cabin
Energy efficient lighting
Location for small stereo/TV/VCR (I gotta watch the Lakers!)
Heater

Cockpit
Self draining
Raw water wash down
Fresh water shower

Equipment
Vented battery bank
AGM batteries (spill proof, high charge acceptance)
AC battery charger (to recharge off shore power)
Fresh water tank
DC water pump
Pressure accumulator
Water heater

Cheers;
Mike Schooley

[Willallison]

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Willallison
However, for what its worth here's my list - from bow to stern:

Head
Fully enclosed separate head with basin, wc and shower
standing headroom (1.75m min)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I think that should be >=1.85m (6')

6' would be nice - I'd be prepared to cop a little less if necessary - I'm exactly 1.75m tall and I can only just stand in the head of my Searay. It works fine (though it's rather short on elbow room...)

Head out roof is OK if it is my option. I want to be able to stand up without having the stick my head out

Guess it depends on whether you have a step up to the helm or not. Without it you could stand at the helm, with it you could stick your head out (of course if we went for a soft-top this wouldn't be an issue)

AGM batteries (spill proof, high charge acceptance)
AC battery charger (to recharge off shore power)

I think items like these should be regarded as optional add-ons - some will install them, some won't.

[Portager]

Originally posted by Willallison
6' would be nice - I'd be prepared to cop a little less if necessary - I'm exactly 1.75m tall and I can only just stand in the head of my Searay. It works fine (though it's rather short on elbow room...)

How about we set 1.75 m as the minimum with a goal of 1.85 m?

Guess it depends on whether you have a step up to the helm or not. Without it you could stand at the helm, with it you could stick your head out (of course if we went for a soft-top this wouldn't be an issue)

I was thinking a hinged platform could allow you to stand head out or in. It also might be a foot rest while sitting.

I think items like these should be regarded as optional add-ons - some will install them, some won't.

I agree on the type of batteries, but I batteries are a necessity and the design should plan for their location and proper venting. Its a safety thing. As for the battery charger and shore power cable. I think it should be allowed for in the wiring plan. By the way where should the breaker panel be located? I'd like to be able to reach it from the helm.

How about we start on the things we might not agree on?

I think the length should be 31'. I'd like to make the length to beam higher to improve efficiency. I select 31' because to go to 32' would require a step up in trailer size with minimal value.

I think electrical power should be DC. If you need AC, like for a microwave, then use an inverter. If the builder decides he wants a generator, they could use a small DC generator. Balmar sells a 1.2 Kw DC gasoline generator for $1,995 http://www.balmar.net/PDF/BC00002.pdf 60 lbs, height 14", width 15", length 18".

Cheers;
Mike Schooley

[Willallison]

was thinking a hinged platform could allow you to stand head out or in. It also might be a foot rest while sitting.

Excellent idea.

By the way where should the breaker panel be located? I'd like to be able to reach it from the helm.

I think that's probably a little further down the design track, but anywhere within a step or two of the helm would be best.

think the length should be 31'. I'd like to make the length to beam higher to improve efficiency. I select 31' because to go to 32' would require a step up in trailer size with minimal value.

I suspect Tom might have a thing or two to say about winding up this big - I'd like to restrict the length to the the minimum required to comfortably fit everything in. But taking a look at the various proposals put forward so far, they are all approaching that sort of length.....certainly we shouldn't go any bigger

[Polarity]

I was all ready to join the fray with and catch a few of those darts when I had a rather terminal hard disk crash. - Ironicaly whilst burning a back up disk image onto CD!

So alas I am back to square-one of option-1.

Will be a few days !

Cheers

Paul

[Willallison]

Our sympathies lie with you Paul......it will give us more time to sharpen the darts!


I think the biggest decision we have to make at this point is whether we should go for a head-up, head-down and forward, or raised pilothouse configuration. Pretty much everything else will be based around that.......

[Portager]

Originally posted by Willallison
Our sympathies lie with you Paul......it will give us more time to sharpen the darts!

If I sharpen anymore I'll have nothing but nubs. They'll be like those child safe darts with Velcro for tips. What would be the fun in that?

I think the biggest decision we have to make at this point is whether we should go for a head-up, head-down and forward, or raised pilothouse configuration. Pretty much everything else will be based around that.......

I think your right. If the head is forward of the helm, then it has to be down and if we stick to the standing height requirement then you need a raised pilothouse or some king of raised helm. If the head is aft of the helm, then I think it is just a question of how far aft.

I think the raised pilothouse comes down to a stability question. Can you do that in a 8'2" beam? We can guess and speculate or we can do a lot of calculations. What is out stability criteria? How stable is stable enough?

Cheers;
Mike Schooley

[Portager]

Boy! Can I put the kibosh on a discussion or what? 4 days without a peep on O1. Must be a record! Or maybe everyone is busy sharpening darts and awaiting Polarities post with baited breath?

Will;

This is just another nit, but I noticed that you are showing your transom door swinging in and I am showing it swinging out. I think an outee (that's a technical term) is better than an inee because when waves hit an outee it is pushed into the door jam, but waves strike an inee it tries to fail the latch mechanism. The boats that I have seen with transom doors, or all that I can remember, had transom doors that swung out.

Cheers;
Mike Schooley

[Willallison]

The boats that I have seen with transom doors, or all that I can remember, had transom doors that swung out.

Mine swings in (mind above the belt thanks... ) So does the one one my fathers Cheoy Lee - so do most others I can think of. Your reasoning is sound, but it is likely to be more difficult to open the door when on the platform if you've go to swing it out (given the limited space available - you can hardly step back to open the door!) And once latched open a door outside will encroach more on the platform than the cockpit. I'd go for a solid, positive locking mechanism with the door swinging in myself.

[Willallison]

You're right - it is a long time between posts - I was going to put up a poll to decise whether we should have the head up or down, but I was waiting for Paul, Gary and any others to post their ideas 1st......

[Portager]

I guess my experience is limited to boats with wider swim steps. One thing I like about an outward hinged door is you can put a flap seal on the bottom. Since the flap is trailing outward, wave pressure presses it against the deck and you get very little leakage. With an inward swinging door the pressure forces it open, unless you put the seal on the threshold and then it gets beat up by foot traffic.

I agree on waiting for ... but I thought this thread was getting stale.

Cheers;
Mike Schooley

[Polarity]

sorry guys , working on getting my disk back together! Will have something soonish...

Paul

[Polarity]

PS Will, any chance of getting your hull form in dxf or iges(prefered) ?

Paul

[Willallison]

Just gimme an email address and I'll send it thru

Incidentally, I spent a couple of hours at the weekend looking over a 52ft powercat that a guy is building here. It's to be powered by a pair of 220hp Cummins diesels and will cruise at 22knots. With a beam of 5.5m and built entirely of Corcell and multiaxial glass (vacuum bagged) its expected to weigh in at 12500 kg dry. An awesome site to see a guy build a shed, then completely from scratch build such a massive project.
The relevence to O-1 is that it reinforces my belief that our boat should be made up wherever possible of developable surfaces. The cat had many areas made up of compound curves and if you could see the amount of work involved in shaping them....!
But as a building process, there was nothing being done there that any competent home-builder shouldn't be able to achieve.

[Willallison]

Come on Paul...where are you? I got more darts at the ready than I know what to do with!