marine navigation light problems

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

just put a led in series with the reed contacts and junk all the rest or use a change over reed and sound the alarm with that .....or a visual led and an optical coupled transistor to work the alarm

Pstnbroke, don't take it the wrong way. I don't mean to argue or be difficult, but people who have a problem, come to us for solutions. By just giving them the information as above, they probably don't have a clue how to put it all together. That is the reason why they come to the forum. If they know it all, they do not have to come to us, but can do it themselves.

Lets take your answer. "Put a led in series", but forget to mention the suggested value of the resistor. ""use a change over reed". However, it does not work. It sounds great, use a change over contact. Just put 13 change over contact on a piece of paper. must he use 13 buzzers? and when 5 lights are not switched on, 5 buzzers are blaaaaring? Which one of the 3 contacts of the change over contact should be all going to one buzzer or one optical coupled transistor or 13? Again , 5 globes not switched on, the buzzers are being a nuisance. Now we put a toggle switch to the alarm, how? One globe not switched on, your change over reed contact does what? I am a stupid guy, know every little about boats and yacht building. For that reason CDK, Porta, Jeremy Harris are so good for this forum, because they spell out in a way that we can absorb the answer. You are most likely a clever engineer, half my age probably, but could you do me a favour and spell it out with a drawing for everybody. Your replies would be so much more appreciated.
Thanks so much.
Don't be upset, I still hope to kiss one day your beautiful country.
Bert

[Submarine Tom]

You've gotta love diplomacy.

-Tom

[pistnbroke]

Well Bertku I dont take offence ..YOU are the one in personal and direct communicaton with the poster .You are the only one with the exact specification on what he wants and therefore exclude everyone else.. so you go ahead and sort him out ...Now how do I delete this as a watched post ...only looked back to see how complicated you made this simple problem ........bye bye

[pistnbroke]

Try this...I know its very complicated so I will give you a few days to work it out ....ha ha

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

Try this...I know its very complicated so I will give you a few days to work it out ....ha ha

Thank you Pistnbroke, you see, you can do it in such a way, that he can use your advise!, Well done, I mean it. Now he has something to work on.
My only comment is that the reed-switch should not be a "floating" one but should be connected to the buzzer side.

No, he has not given me any specifications, all he said that his father may has to buy a very expensive panel, and he like to know whether it could not be done by him, more cost effective. That is all.

No specification like:
a) whether an alarm has to sound when a globe packs up.
b) whether he is allowed a mix of different globes
c) whether he was planning to use LED lights in future.
d) whether it should only work when globes are switched on.

Thus we had to philosophise. Pistnbroke, well done.
Bert

[pistnbroke]

Thank you mummy for the pat on the head....50 posts to sort this out !!!! I told you at post 19 how to do it .....Took less than the time to drink half a cup of coffee to draw it and photograph it ....

Now all we want is for Frosty to give it his seal of approval ....

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

Now all we want is for Frosty to give it his seal of approval ....

You will get it, after you pay him his million dollar.
Bert

[pistnbroke]

If you put a capacitor between C and NC then the buzzer would sound momentarily when the light was turned on and this would test the buzzer circuit ....value ... maybe 5 uf and maybe a 100 ohm series resistor.


Frosty did not send the invoice......

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

If you put a capacitor between C and NC then the buzzer would sound momentarily when the light was turned on and this would test the buzzer circuit ....value ... maybe 5 uf and maybe a 100 ohm series resistor.


Frosty did not send the invoice......

He has send you a statement.

When the light is switched on, your inrush current through the globe will probably for a very short time give the buzzer a "ping" sound. Indeed a small resistor and capacitor will help, but 100 Ohm and 5 uF is probably too small. More likely a 1000 Ohm and 470 uF/35 Volt will do.
Bert

[BertKu]

I would just place a 470 uF capacitor between the ground and reed solder contact point to the diode (buzzer) . The capacitor would be charged as soon the mainswitch is switched on. As soon the reed relay contact swings over to the LED side, the capacitor will discharge over the buzzer. Even 470 uF is too small, probably a higher value is needed depending of the buzzer. The buzzer indeed will give a short "ping" indication that the circuit is working.

But Pistnbroke, you have indeed created the most economic way for ellawendy to make a panel for his father.

He could make 2 coils between each lamp and ground. one for lower currents up to 300 milliAmpere and one from 300 milliAmpere to 2 Ampere. Just a few more or less windings.
Bert

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

dear dear god help us ...I am talking of the buzzer with the transistorised switching as the load of the buzzer direct on the reed is not a good idea .

Why do you want to have God helping you? Just select the correct reed switch. The ones used in the security industry is 2 Ampere changeover. With a 1.666 Ampere globe and 5 turns around it, enough energy to make it switching. Indeed the small reed switch used in a reed-relay of 100 milli Ampere, maybe not suitable.

Again, without specifications, one can have any buzzer, any automobile hooter or alarm in your circuit diagram. You did not specify. Those little transistorized buzzers are prone to moisture failure. The piezo ceramic ones at 20 milliAmpere is a better choice.
Bert

[pistnbroke]

sorry dont agree capacitor as you suggest is in the wrong place ...no time for it to charge ( micro seconds) and the contacts breaking at peak charge current..it is no good for the reed contacts .... stick with my original arrangement and select a capacitor dependent on the characteristics of the transistor that switches the buzzer ...if you want something to do re design it with a mosfet to switch the buzzer !!!! Dont complicate it for the poor egyptian guy Bit of Vero board 150 x 100 and he is away ..test and pot in resin .......KISS

[BertKu]

Originally Posted by pistnbroke

sorry dont agree capacitor as you suggest is in the wrong place ...no time for it to charge ( micro seconds) and the contacts breaking at peak charge current..it is no good for the reed contacts .... stick with my original arrangement and select a capacitor dependent on the characteristics of the transistor that switches the buzzer ...if you want something to do re design it with a mosfet to switch the buzzer !!!! Dont complicate it for the poor egyptian guy Bit of Vero board 150 x 100 and he is away ..test and pot in resin .......KISS

You are going to loose another million !!

The 2 Ampere reed relay takes 3 milliseconds to pull in. The impedance to the 470 uF capacitor via the on/off switch, is lower than a few Ohms. Thus charging of the capacitor is in Microseconds. If you select a bad reed switch which cannot handle the very high currents for a very short time, forget about the whole circuit and he should use microprocessors. They are not that stupid in Egypt. Be realistic, their culture is more than 8000 years old, ours a few hundred years.
Bert.