good idea?

[Frosty]

I thought I would start this thread for good ideas. I though I would kick off with this idea that came to me a couple of days ago whilst making a fan for my air con.

The ubiquitous floor fan as pictured has a nifty little push button switch. This switch is a 3 gang and will not let more than one contact at a time, Exellent for a navigation switch. This switch could easily be wired for No1/ port star and stern light,--No 2 steamer port starb and stern, No4 anchor.

No 2 buttons can be on at the same time.

The first contact goes to port start and stern, the second is steam but feed the last one by feeding through a small diode, This means that you cant have steam on its own. Finally anchor is self explanitory ,push this button and all will cancell and you anchor light is on.

Just 4 hole in you dash with a backing pad of wood say and it not a bad looking switch

[alan white]

Wonder if there's a more water resistant switch that does the same. Hot tubs have at least two-speed motors and lights. They are usually touch pad though.

Alan

[TerryKing]

Frosty, it's a good idea... These are usually called "Radio Button" Switches" like a car radio pushbuttons etc. and you'd find switches like that on some search.

I'm working on designs for totally waterproof panels where the is one piece of 1/8 inch Lexan with touch-switches behind it, displays and a big LCD panel behind it for NAV and boat monitoring software. Then, of course, the "Radio Buttons" function is in software / firmware somewhere which is fine with some of us electronics Nerds

But it can be done with diodes as you suggest. There are diodes with wire leads at 3 amps, and diodes with 2 leads that look like power transistors at 5 to 20 amps, so you could run any reasonable number of lights...

[Poida]

Since you don't mind buggering up other people's threads Frosty, might I say it's not a bad idea but I couldn't put up with all the wind blowing in my face while I'm using it.

Poida

Now, it appears from your switching arrangement that when you turn your anchor light on your nav. lights go off.

I did a boat course and exactly that was stated. An anchor light was for anchoring, and when underway, that is turned off and the nav. lights are turned on.

However our local authority distributes a safety book and states, I quote "If you are at anchor or in a busy area, then show additional lights to ensure you are seen."

Nav. light are additional to the anchor light but with your configeration they can't be on at the same time. I sometimes leave mine on when anchored.

Poida

[Frosty]

An anchor light is for anchoring. If your not on anchor you should not be showing an anchor light. As pityfull full as an anchor light may be in these modern times that is the rule.

Similarly a steamer should not be shown if you are sailing only.

Im flattered that you dug out this thread, but the little switch on a fan could control this important selection.

Additional lights could be deck lights but not a red and a green under any circumstances at anchor.

[charmc]

Frosty,

What can I say. You're a multi-talented guy.

First a world class driveler, now a fountain of common sense. Of course a multi-pole lockout switch is perfect for navigation lights. Anchor and underway lights should never be on simultaneously.

Have you thought of going into politics?
The drivel is essential to being elected. Once in, you could unleash the common sense and start solving problems.

Won't work here, as you must be a native to be Pres. Aha! You could pick from among the current crop of drivelers and be his/her VP. Then, like Cheney, you could be the power behind the throne, so to speak.

Give it some thought and get back to me.

[mydauphin]

May be a rotary switch like the kind used for shorepower generator selector

[Poida]

Well Ithought if Frosty can think of a good idea (rather stick to my toggle switches tho') then so can I, soon.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................any time now.

When I bought my boat, probably after about 200 previous owners, every time someone wanted to wire something new up they ran a new wire where ever thay wanted to go. Eventually there was a heap of wires running every where even wrapped around the steering cables.

So, here comes the good idea. I knew that I would want to maybe run other items so I ran a 7 core trailer cable to about 3 spots on the boat terminating at terminal blocks. Then, if I wanted to have a new electric gismo I could run it from the nearest terminal block instead of running a new cable under the floor boards.

There yer go. I also removed all the switches that someone had put in from old fans and replaced 'em with toggles, more reliable.

Poida

[Frosty]

Idea number 2---When you fit a fresh water pressure system it is advisable if not necessary to fit an acumulator to the system to stop over cycling of the pump. These empty containers only use compression of air as a kind of store of pressure.

These acumulators are expensive for what they are. I simply used a coil of pipe with the end plugged. If you ever need some pipe you have some.

[mydauphin]

Originally Posted by Frosty

Idea number 2---When you fit a fresh water pressure system it is advisable if not necessary to fit an acumulator to the system to stop over cycling of the pump. These empty containers only use compression of air as a kind of store of pressure.

These acumulators are expensive for what they are. I simply used a coil of pipe with the end plugged. If you ever need some pipe you have some.

I just pressurized my water tanks from air from my compressors that runs automatically. I have pressure valve to adjust pressure to 35 psi. I have compressed air for everything else. Keeps water running level and silent. I have 30 gallon air tank at 100psi. Once you chase down all the leaks it lasts along time. I love it. Yes, the boat is bigger than most.